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April 12, 2013, 10:00 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: March 16, 2013
Posts: 25
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Reagent R200S Stainless - Issues and insights
Ok well I have a Reagent R200S made by Umarex. I got it cheap and I'm using it to learn how to fix and work with 1911s.
Some things I noticed with this gun right away: 1. Spongey trigger - Its like after the trigger engadges you can still pull it a ways, and its spongey, doesn't have a firm stop. 2. Bore points left - Using my laser bore sight, this gun clearly points left. Very left. Problem is, the rear sight isn't adjustable. Lame. 3. Chromed parts are all very poorly chromed. Tons of rough edges. I've De-burred all the parts, and trigger shaft. This helped quite a bit, the trigger is a lot smoother, but it just doesn't feel crisp. The spongey no-break part probably has something to do with that. Questions I have are, how would I fix the spongey trigger? And what can I do about the bore pointing left? |
April 13, 2013, 01:43 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: September 9, 2008
Location: Woooooshington
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No one going to tackle this one huh? OK... I've got time on my hands, so here goes.
You're a brave man deckard. At least you went into it eyes open, but the flip side is that your expectations might be a bit lofty. Cheap guns frequently have cheap gun issues... the money saved may be spent trying to bring it up to decent gun specification. As some will say, "Buy best, cry once. Buy cheap, cry often". 1. "Spongy" is a term seldom associated with the 1911.
Pre-travel and over-travel can be adjusted with the appropriate trigger component. Creep, grit and the distance of trigger travel required to release the hammer upon trigger to sear engagement can be corrected with proper fitting. 2. You may be able to correct much of this with a properly fit barrel bushing. I suggest obtaining a custom, "sized to order" one from EGW. If on the other hand your misalignment is from poor lug fitment or mis-machined parts... you may have bigger problems. If, for example, the bore of the slide is machined off center or at an angle... you would need to have the slide welded and remachined by a highly experianced, 1911 gunsmith. If your problem is an out of round barrel, then it's best to simply replace the barrel. Your cheap gun is getting expensive isn't it. Other... Trigger shaft? There are two elements to a 1911 trigger - the stainless steel bow and the (usually) aluminum shoe or pad... these last two terms frequently used interchangeably. The bow can be polished and even "adjusted" to obtain a better fit with other components. The shoe, on a new, aftermarket trigger will be oversize in the vertical direction so that it can be file fit to the frame for minimum clearance... about .0005"~.001". The trigger bow rides in channels machined into the frame. These channels can be polished with the appropriate stone to remove burrs and high spots.
Do what you want... play with the sear and hammer, screw around with the sear spring... go nuts. But, remember, if your gun ends up being unsafe, do not load it, do not shoot it, do not aim it at anything you are not willing to kill. Cheers, C
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April 13, 2013, 09:17 PM | #3 |
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The rear sight is adjusted by drifting it in the dovetail.
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April 14, 2013, 07:22 AM | #4 | |
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Join Date: March 16, 2013
Posts: 25
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Quote:
The front sight is dove tailed in though, but the barrel bushings sound like a better option here. |
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April 14, 2013, 05:49 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: March 16, 2013
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So on closer inspection on the bore alignment, the slide is laughably angled left at the front, causing the barrel bushing to sit with a gap on it.
I'm not sure if this is a manufacturing defect or if the previous owner dropped the gun, somehow I don't see how dropping the gun could cause this, so I'm going with manufacturing defect. Pic: https://www.copy.com/s/Bqdrgf3XFaQA Think I'll try mucking with the bushing to make it shoot straight. Last edited by deckard; April 16, 2013 at 12:36 PM. |
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