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March 28, 2011, 04:10 PM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 19, 2007
Posts: 2,663
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Here's how I stumbled on Slick 50 wheel bearing grease. I was building a lot of custom paintball stuff, and a friend of mine happened to be a Ford mechanic. He showed me some light blue grease Ford sold for aluminum and plastic window power tracks- which worked surprisingly well.
I used all of the sample he had given me, and when I asked about another -ahem- "sample", he told me it was the same product as Slick 50. I bought a tube of the Slick 50 and used it, and it worked really well, and he was right- same stuff, just a different color. I've used a dab on sears on race guns, paintball gun triggers, and servo gears on R/C planes. No idea on the engine oil as I've never used it. |
March 28, 2011, 04:14 PM | #27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 1, 2011
Location: Louisville
Posts: 261
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Yes I got a free Toothpaste Like tube with some in it. Its pretty good, But i preffer Hoppes #9 Oil.
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March 30, 2011, 06:33 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: March 3, 2011
Location: Georgia
Posts: 43
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I discovered the slick 50 one lube when i was lubing my motorcyce chain with it. Some over sprayed onto the brake rotor and i quickly wiped it off wnad cleaned it with some solvent. The slick 50 caused my brakes to be " anti-lock" for a month. That told me it was some dang good stuff! That's why I use it on my guns.
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April 2, 2011, 09:11 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: March 31, 2011
Posts: 16
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I've used Rem Oil for a long time; got no complaints. I've lately been using Militech 1 also.
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April 2, 2011, 10:05 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: October 31, 2010
Posts: 65
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I know there have been issues with getting gun oil on wood hardware (like the old 3-in-1 Oil my mom used in her sewing maching).
Does the same issue exist with getting CLP on wood hardware? |
April 3, 2011, 08:33 AM | #31 |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 6, 2009
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 2,832
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Just one comment on the toxic potential of teflon, it's stable up to around 280C. Gun solder melts at 260C, so you're very unlikely to heat your teflon product to decomposition temperature.
__________________
I used to love being able to hit hard at 1000 yards. As I get older I find hitting a mini ram at 200 yards with the 22 oddly more satisfying. |
April 3, 2011, 08:26 PM | #32 |
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Join Date: August 8, 2005
Posts: 66
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I would prefer to use sperm oil, but that is difficult to find these days.
An economical alternative is a 3 to 1 mix of canola oil and Dexron ATF. Most any oil will serve to lube a firearm. Only well into the 20th century did we have any fancy gun oils, though sperm oil was an excellent lubricant. Animal and vegetable oils were used for centuries before mineral oils came on the scene. The old ways still work. |
April 3, 2011, 09:11 PM | #33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 15, 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ. 30 miles from water, two feet from Hell.
Posts: 355
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I did a frictional analysis once on two rifles.
It was a University project when I was working on a Masters degree. I used several oils and polishing compounds. One used Slick 50 and and J.B. bore paste, the other rifle was Kroil oil and Brasso. In this finite test the Brasso and the Kroil came out ahead. They helped in reducing the frictional coefficient. Several years later when breaking in barrels was just coming into vogue I thought I would try it on a 22-250 sheeting 50 rounds cleaning between shots then swabbing a mop with slick 50 and Brasso. it still shoots under 1/2 " Edward5759 |
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