Can a case hardened frame be blued?

[Big-Blue]

Why do I see case hardened frames with BP, but not with modern firearms?

Is there something about the BP revolvers which keeps us from being able to blue the frame? I personally don't like the swirl/smudge look the case hardening leaves and would like to know if it can be changed.

Thanks

[Snyper]

Why do I see case hardened frames with BP, but not with modern firearms?

It's done to make them look like the originals

The color was a side effect of the hardening process

There's no reason why they can't be blued

[Model12Win]

Because it's historically correct, at least the appearance is.

I am not sure if the metal can be blued after case hardening, but I'd imagine it could be if you could somehow polish off the exterior of the metal.

Case hardening was done to improve the exterior hardness of metal parts. The outside is hard, while the inside is of softer metal. The colors on the surface are a byproduct of this metal treatment technique.

[Hawg]

Reproduction revolvers are not case hardened. They're chemically treated to get the look. Not even Rugers are case hardened. Remove the coloring and they can be blued.

[Driftwood Johnson]

Reproduction revolvers are not case hardened. They're chemically treated to get the look. Not even Rugers are case hardened. Remove the coloring and they can be blued.

Howdy

Well, there's case hardening and there's Case Hardening. It all falls under the heading of carburizing. Adding carbon to the surface of iron or steel to harden the surface. Uberti frames are dipped in a chemical bath and they do have some surface hardening to them. But they are not traditional bone Case Hardening. True bone Case Hardening is a time consuming and therefor expensive process. Yes, while Ruger was offering the Vaquero and New Vaquero in their 'Color Case' finish, it was chemically applied and it was not true bone Case Hardening. But Ruger Investment Cast frames are hardened all the way through, so true bone Case Hardening would be redundant.

Yes, the colors are a by product of the process, but during the 19th Century the firearms buying public became very enamored of the colors of Case Hardening and each firearms company strove to make their colors as beautiful as possible. And they jealously guarded their processes.

If you don't like the colors, they can easily be removed. Strong chemicals, even sunlight will dull the colors of true Case Hardening. Naval Jelly and even strong vinegar will remove them. The hardened surface will remain, but the colors will be gone.

The 2nd Gen Colt at the bottom of this photo had just about no colors at all left on it when I bought it about ten years ago. Clearly, someone had removed the colors chemically in an attempt to make it look old. The 7 1/2" Colt at the top of the photo is also a 2nd Gen. Its colors have gotten muted over time, not as vibrant as they were when it was new.

[maillemaker]

Driftwood nailed it.

Steve

[James K]

Case hardening (which might or might not involve colors) was used originally in many guns because the frames were made of wrought iron. Unlike steel, iron cannot be hardened by heat treating so, to reduce the wear of the internal parts on the frame, the frames were case hardened. When steel became inexpensive and plentiful enough to use for frames/receivers, many makers (e.g., Winchester) stopped using case coloring as a standard feature. But some customers, and some makers (e.g., Colt), continued the use of case hardening with colors over the steel as a cosmetic or special order feature.

Jim

[bedbugbilly]

As far as the CH on a reproduction BP revolver - the "why" has already been covered above. If you don't like it and want to remove it, you can use vinegar. Just be aware that vinegar will remove blueing from whatever it touches so if only the frame is bugging you - take your pistol apart.

A few years back I wanted to "antique' my Uberti '51. I dis-assembled it and soaked the parts overnight in vinegar (I think I used white vinegar) and the next day, the blueing was "gone". A quick wash down with soap and water and then polish with some 600 grit or finer and it was ready to finish. I didn't want blueing . . . I wanted it browned. So I used Plum Brown on it with the intention of then buffing the "high spots" off. I liked it so well the way the browning came out that I never "antiqued" by buffing the high spots.

I had used "Plum Brown" (available from T of the W) on custom BP rifles that I had built over the years. A good finish that is easily wiped down with oil and it holds up well.