October 11, 2012, 11:58 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: December 5, 2009
Location: Iowa
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S&W flat-latch??
Hi everyone. I really enjoy the knowledge shared on this site!!
I just purchased a S&W revolver. It is a .38 spec, 2" bbl, blued finish. Seems to be a J-frame, but the grips seem smallish to me... the serial is 5-digit (i would share, but I don't have the serial in front of me right now). It is a flat-latch with no model number. Probably a pre-model 36, Chiefs Special?? can anyone tell me anything about this gun, value etc.? I'm curious if I got a good deal or not... Thanks!! Trout |
October 11, 2012, 12:01 PM | #2 |
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Pictures would help a lot,,,
Pictures would help a lot,,,
Without them we would just be guessing. Aarond .
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October 11, 2012, 01:10 PM | #3 |
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Thanks Aaron, but i haven't picked it up yet. Pawn shop has to hold for 15 days due to ordinance, but it's paid-for.
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October 11, 2012, 01:13 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: December 5, 2009
Location: Iowa
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also Aarond, I really enjoy your posts and knowledge! I bet you have an awesome collection - I've seen some of your pics.... I'm just starting & hope to some day be on your level!
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October 11, 2012, 02:44 PM | #5 | ||
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Quote:
The grip and trigger guard dimensions of the original J frame were the same as the preexisting I frame, which was the frame used at the time for compact S&W revolvers chambered in .32 S&W Long, .38 S&W (NOT .38 Special), and .22LR. As originally conceived, the J frame was basically an I frame that was lengthened to allow a .38Spl cylinder to fit, although it also incorporated a coil mainspring rather than the leaf mainspring used on the I frame. (The latter change was meant to reduce costs and simplify production.) In mid-1952, S&W lengthened the grip frame and enlarged the trigger guard of both the I and J frames, and implemented the coil mainspring on the I frame.* Later grips will fit the "short grip" or "Baby" Chiefs but will overhang the butt by 1/4". Earlier I frame grips will (logically) fit perfectly. As you might imagine, however, it can be difficult to find modern grips that fit these guns! These guns may demand a ~$50-$100 premium over later J frames, although this varies, as most gun store (and pawn shop) operators don't know enough about older J frames to tell the difference! Quote:
Very early Airweights also had an aluminum cylinder that was rapidly dropped from production due to inadequate strength. These guns are valuable collector's items but SHOULD NEVER BE FIRED due to the high risk of a gun-destroying and shooter-injuring kB! That said, if this gun has an alloy cylinder and costs <$500, I would recommend snapping it up, because you should be able to resell it for substantially more! Steel-cylinder Airweights make good carry guns, but most experts recommend staying away from +P ammo, and sometimes using low-pressure "cowboy" or wadcutter loads for practice. The early aluminum J frames aren't very strong and may stretch or crack with hard use. For this reason, these guns should be checked very carefully for signs of cracking and excess endshake (i.e. fore-aft cylinder play). *The post-1952 I frame is often called the "Improved I frame" to reflect the changes. The I frame was dropped from production circa 1962 to simplify parts inventories; all I frame models were replaced by an equivalent J frame.
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