need to set up for rifle loading cheap

[swampcrawler]

Need to ask some advice once again. I load for 45acp on a hornady lnl ap progressive and want to load for 7.62x39 fo feed my CZ. I'm trading a wasr 10 in at cabellas to fund the stuff I need. I'm expecting maby 200 out of it so that's what I have to work with. Not counting dies and components I know I need case prepp stuf and shell holders but not sure what els. I have a manual, scale, calipers, tumbler, and of course the press. I know single stage is prefered for rifle but I don't know if I can foot the bill for reloading bench+other equipment+single stage press. So I'm looking forward to some feedback from someone who knows what they are doing, because I certianly don't.

[TATER]

If you are already reloading, You have the bulk of your needs.
You need a New Shellplate for 762x39, Dies and a way to trim your brass.

[GWS]

The biggest difference between pistol and rifle reloading is case prep. Pistol doesn't require a whole lot of case prep, but rifle needs a trimmer, as was mentioned. Also if you are collecting military brass you may need to ream or swage the primer pockets. It also makes a difference with rifle to do things like uniforming primer pockets, cleaning them, and even reaming flash holes.

Those things aren't required per-say but they do help with accuracy if you are looking for sub-MOA. All that stuff has to be done after you size but before you prime, charge and seat. That usually means two runs through your press....once to deprime and size....Then another run after prepping, to prime, charge, seat, and crimp if you want to.

If you ever compete in bench-rest. An arbor press is a popular tool along with other hand tools they use on the firing line, otherwise your progressive can make pretty impressive fodder as you learn the tricks. I do still use my single station a lot....to size and deprime or to reload calibers I haven't set up the progressive for yet. So far I'm loading .223, .308, & .243 on the progressive (along with 4 pistol cartridges.) ....Not done by a long shot.

[swampcrawler]

Thanks for the answers guys.
GWS: i will eventually have a sako 6.5 sweede for which i will be interested in loading, at which time all the little super fine tuneing will come into play. For now i will only be loading for 1 rifle cartrige, fired from 1 rifle. That would be the humble 7.62x39 for my cz 527 carbine, and sence the cheap factory/surplus is so... well...cheap, il only be loading hunting ammo. Mainly because i want the best bullets possible. Minute of angle accuracy isnt the primary goal. However i wouldnt complain if i could get close to it .

One more question, cabellas has a hornady electric case prep station and a set of hand prep tools. Id rather go with the cheaper hand tools so i can get some other goodies instead of just a bench and prep station. Any input on that?

[FiveInADime]

I am set-up to load rifle cartridges exclusively. I also have done everything as cheap as possible. That means i have a lot of Lee stuff.

I use Lee dippers, with a Lee scale, Lee dies, Lee trimmers, Lee Chamfer tool, ect. I do love my free hand-me-down Rock Chucker, though!

I have been able to make sub-MOA ammo for guns that can't shoot factory loads into 1.5 MOA and i just started.

You have everything you need already, except the dies and case prep tools. The later can be had for about $20 or so for one caliber if you buy all Lee.

Sent From My Galaxy S 4g Using Tapatalk

[frumious]

Swampcrawler,

I'd skip the case prep station. I have hand tools and while they take longer to use they work just fine.

I have this flash hole deburring tool: Link
And this case mouth chamfering/deburring tool: Link
And this case trimmer: Link

For that trimmer you need to buy the right case holder, like this: Link

And I use a small bench vise to hold the trimmer to the bench.

One last thing, unless you have a hell of a tumbler you will need to clean primer pockets by hand. I use this tool; you can chuck it in a drill: Link

The CZ 527 seems to be a bolt action so you could consider neck-sizing only, as with a Lee collet neck-sizer die. This will pretty much eliminate the need to measure bullet runout, at least if you have decent brass and bullets. Get the Lee Deluxe die set for 7.62. It has a seater, a full-length sizer, and a neck sizer. Don't let anyone tell you Lee dies are crap; they are not. I use all Lee dies and any inaccuracy in my loaded ammo is my fault. I just recently loaded some 22-250's that averaged .68" for 10 5-shot groups at 100 yards. With Lee dies, Remington brass, Hornady bullets, regular CCI LR primers, and Varget.

In fact as far as bullets go I recommend Hornady from a bang-for-the-buck perspective.

There are other tools beyond that but these will get you started and take you a long way.

One more thing...IMHO you will probably want to drop powder charges by hand at least while working up, in order to get the most out of your effort. This will entail at least two trips through the press as indicated by a previous post. After you find "the load" then you can drop powder on the press and see if it is as consistent as dropping it by hand.

-cls

[mrawesome22]

Don't let Cabellas buy your gun. They will pay you half of what they think they can sell it for.

Sell it privately and put that money in your pocket.

Sent from HenseMod6.

[chris in va]

I reload for x39. Honestly, considering the rarity of reloadable brass and proper bullets, you may just want to get some factory rounds and be done with it.