First time reloading, did I mess up?

wmo964 · March 15, 2008, 09:37 PM

Alright, first time reloading. The guy at the shop told me to wash the cases then dry them in the oven. I dried them at 250 for about 10 minutes. I deprimed them and then saw in my book not to put them in the oven. Did I ruin my cases? I did a search on here and most people recommend 150-200 degrees and I did see a few 250 degrees. I think they should be alright but I just want some reassurance since this is my first time

TexasSeaRay · March 15, 2008, 10:10 PM

A. You didn't say what kind of cases/caliber you are reloading. Regardless, make sure you deprime and full-length size. Unless a case just feels really odd going in/out of the sizer die, you're fine.

B. Find another source other than the guy who told you to wash your rounds and dry them in the oven.

Jeff

btefft · March 16, 2008, 12:48 AM

Why not just get a tumbler. My Lyman works great.

Hack

Ifishsum · March 16, 2008, 01:49 AM

Before I got a tumbler, I used to soak them in the Birchwood Casey case cleaner properly mixed with warm water for 5 minutes or so, then rinse them with the hottest water I can stand, roll them on a towel and put them upside down in a loading block and let them dry for a day or two. If I was in a hurry to load them right away, a hair dryer passed over them for a couple minutes was plenty to dry them.

Putting them in the oven at less than 250 for a few minutes probably won't hurt them, but it's not really necessary. The risk you take with heating them too much is they will lose the annealing and you won't get as many reloads from the cases before they work harden and split.

wmo964 · March 16, 2008, 02:39 AM

Thanks guys, I will be buying a tumbler this week. It just isn't worth the hassle doing them any other way.

velocette · March 16, 2008, 11:20 AM

Respectfully gentlemen, in order to "lose the annealing" one must heat the brass beyond the metals heat of transformation, which is about 650 ~ 750 deg. depending upon chemical makeup of the brass. Further, annealing brass, softens the metal, not hardens it. cold working hardens brass and copper (copper alloys) This is why many reloaders that neck size their fireformed brass, will anneal the necks of their brass periodically to bring it back to it's soft, state to avoid cracking.
Finally, heating brass to 200 ~ 250 degrees in an oven or any other method will not affect it's hardness or anneal it. They come out of a rifle at least that hot after being fired. For annealing, the metal just has to reach or exceed its heat of transformation, it does not have to stay there for a time period.
The actual problem with washing brass (or polishing it too) is the detergent used. If it has any ammonia or ammoniates in it, they will attack the brass and make it brittle, causing cracks, usually after it has sat for a while. For example, after you reload the ammoniated brass, it sits for a couple of months or longer, then you take it out and find the necks cracked or they crack when fired.
All the annealing in the world will not save brass that has been attacked by ammonia.

Roger

wmo964 · March 16, 2008, 11:25 AM

I used rubbing alcohol and water, this shouldn't make it brittle I don't believe

March 15, 2008, 09:37 PM	#1
wmo964 Junior Member Join Date: March 9, 2008 Posts: 14	First time reloading, did I mess up? Alright, first time reloading. The guy at the shop told me to wash the cases then dry them in the oven. I dried them at 250 for about 10 minutes. I deprimed them and then saw in my book not to put them in the oven. Did I ruin my cases? I did a search on here and most people recommend 150-200 degrees and I did see a few 250 degrees. I think they should be alright but I just want some reassurance since this is my first time

March 15, 2008, 10:10 PM	#2
TexasSeaRay Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 810	A. You didn't say what kind of cases/caliber you are reloading. Regardless, make sure you deprime and full-length size. Unless a case just feels really odd going in/out of the sizer die, you're fine. B. Find another source other than the guy who told you to wash your rounds and dry them in the oven. Jeff __________________ If every single gun owner belonged to the NRA as well as their respective state rifle/gun association, we wouldn't be in the mess we're in today. So to those of you who are members of neither, thanks for nothing.

March 16, 2008, 11:20 AM	#6
velocette Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 924	Respectfully gentlemen, in order to "lose the annealing" one must heat the brass beyond the metals heat of transformation, which is about 650 ~ 750 deg. depending upon chemical makeup of the brass. Further, annealing brass, softens the metal, not hardens it. cold working hardens brass and copper (copper alloys) This is why many reloaders that neck size their fireformed brass, will anneal the necks of their brass periodically to bring it back to it's soft, state to avoid cracking. Finally, heating brass to 200 ~ 250 degrees in an oven or any other method will not affect it's hardness or anneal it. They come out of a rifle at least that hot after being fired. For annealing, the metal just has to reach or exceed its heat of transformation, it does not have to stay there for a time period. The actual problem with washing brass (or polishing it too) is the detergent used. If it has any ammonia or ammoniates in it, they will attack the brass and make it brittle, causing cracks, usually after it has sat for a while. For example, after you reload the ammoniated brass, it sits for a couple of months or longer, then you take it out and find the necks cracked or they crack when fired. All the annealing in the world will not save brass that has been attacked by ammonia. Roger __________________ Trigger control + Breath control + Sight alignment = Gun Control. http://www.hrpclub.info/ NRA Smallbore Prone Master, High Power Master

March 16, 2008, 12:48 AM	#3
btefft Senior Member Join Date: March 7, 2008 Posts: 181	Why not just get a tumbler. My Lyman works great. Hack

March 16, 2008, 01:49 AM	#4
Ifishsum Senior Member Join Date: September 15, 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,033	Before I got a tumbler, I used to soak them in the Birchwood Casey case cleaner properly mixed with warm water for 5 minutes or so, then rinse them with the hottest water I can stand, roll them on a towel and put them upside down in a loading block and let them dry for a day or two. If I was in a hurry to load them right away, a hair dryer passed over them for a couple minutes was plenty to dry them. Putting them in the oven at less than 250 for a few minutes probably won't hurt them, but it's not really necessary. The risk you take with heating them too much is they will lose the annealing and you won't get as many reloads from the cases before they work harden and split.

March 16, 2008, 02:39 AM	#5
wmo964 Junior Member Join Date: March 9, 2008 Posts: 14	Thanks guys, I will be buying a tumbler this week. It just isn't worth the hassle doing them any other way.

March 16, 2008, 11:25 AM	#7
wmo964 Junior Member Join Date: March 9, 2008 Posts: 14	I used rubbing alcohol and water, this shouldn't make it brittle I don't believe