M1917 Sporter Renovation

Nathan · March 4, 2012, 06:08 PM

Background: My first hunting rifle was my dad's first deer rifle. It was an M1917 made by Winchester. My dad walked down to Montgomery Wards, I think, and bought this thing in the cosmoline at 12 years old. He and my grandfather sporterized this, occasionally with help from the local gunsmith. Their work made this thing into a serviceable hunting rifle that shoots 1" groups at 100 yards, if you get the trigger pull down.

Goals:
- Spend under $500 to improve and modernize this sporter into a 0 - 600yd Antelope rifle.
- Recontour(maybe ok) or replace the current stock to be more friendly
- Refinish stock
- Refinish metal with some kind of spray on finish.
- Improve trigger pull
- Change to cock on open
- Rechamber to 30-06 AI
- Recrown
- Add a good recoil pad. Limbsaver
- Rescope to a good mid range scope thinking 4 - 16 x 40 or similar.

Questions:
Is a Weaver K4 worth anything in trade?
Any idea what scope bases could be on this thing?

taylorce1 · March 4, 2012, 06:52 PM

As far as sticking to under $500 it will be tough unless you do most the work yourself. Has the trigger guard been straightened or does it still have the belly in it? Because there are some stocks available but you need to make sure you order the right one. B&C makes a good stock with a good quality recoil pad but it only fits a straightened trigger guard. Boyds and Richard's Microfit will make you a wood stock but the latter will require a lot of fitting.

Honestly I think going with the AI is the wrong way to go with this rifle. The barrel will have to be removed and set back to do the chamber properly. I don't know if a .300 WM will clean up the old chamber or not but it will definately improve the performance of the rifle and the action can handle it. However you'll have to open up the feed rails and the bolt face to handle the magnum. I just don't think the 06 AI will gain you anthing other than longer brass life.

The Dayton Traister speed lock kit is a great thing to put in the rifle as well as a Timmney trigger and will make the rifle better handling but not necessary, since you state that it is all ready capable of 1" groups as is. Duracoat will be an easy to apply finish that you can do yourself, but it isn't as durable as some others out there. Get a 3-9X40 scope and that will be all that you need, the K4 is worth nothing for trade in but you can sell it for around $45-50 depending on the shape it is in.

The way I kind of break things down for your rifle would be:

Bell & Carlson synthetic stock $180
Dayton Traister Speed Lock $25
Timmney Sportsman Trigger $55
Bedding kit $30
3-9X40 scope of decent quality $200+

So with what you wanting to do I'm betting you'll surpass $500 pretty quick. I know I sure did when I finished my .300 H&H Enfield project.

I paid $100 for the sporterized 1917 rifle already with a speed lock kit and rechambered to .300 H&H with the bolt face and feed rail work already done. I picked up a Richard's Microfit stock for around $90 shipped. Then paid $600 to have the rifle properly bedded and the stock reshaped and have the Timmney trigger installed. Then I spent another $350 on the scope that I put on the rifle.

Scorch · March 4, 2012, 09:53 PM

You are looking at about $800-$1200 unless you do the work yourself. Unless you really want an Enfield, you can buy a Winchester Model 70, a Remington 700, a Ruger 77 Mk II/Hawkeye, or even a Sako for less than you will spend on re-vamping a sporterized military rifle, and the resulting hunting rifle will be more pleasant to look at and shoot better.

velocette · March 5, 2012, 09:37 AM

Taylorce has it right.
The improvements he mentions are all that is needed to make a very nice rifle.
I just finished doing my '17 Enfield sporter in 30-06. It shoots right at MOA with ammo I loaded for my Garand.
I used a Dayton Traister trigger and cock on opening kit.
I straightened & narrowed the trigger guard / magazine plate.
Much labor went into the removal of the ears and re-shaping the rear of the receiver. The bolt handle was straightened and shortened.
The original barrel was shortened by 1 1/2" to remove the front sight dovetail & given a target crown.
All the work was done by hand with no power tools by myself, except for the barrel shortening / crowning and the blueing.

Roger

smoakingun · March 5, 2012, 10:29 AM

Your father and grandfather sportered a rifle with their own hands, are you sure you want to change it?

FALshootist · March 5, 2012, 06:08 PM

Velocette, very nice rifle.

Smokey Joe · March 6, 2012, 02:45 PM

Nathan--I'm with Smoakingun on this one. What you now have is a family heirloom, and a pretty accurate one at that. What you will have after all the time, effort, and expense you propose will be an ordinary, albeit accurate, and frankly kinda costly rifle.

Other than mebbe installing a Timney trigger in your father/grandfather's rifle, to--as you say--get the trigger pull down, I for one would leave it alone. The Timney for the 1917 is still available, and it's a very easy install.

Then you'll still have your father/grandfather's rifle. Leave the Weaver K4 on it, too--It's period-correct, and still a pretty decent 'scope.

For the same $$ you propose to spend trashing this family heirloom (yes, that's pretty strong language, but to me at least, family is that important) you could buy yourself a brand-new Savage, with Accustock and Accutrigger ready-installed, in your choice of cartridge. AND a modern 'scope. These new Savages are tackdrivers. Check Scorch's $$ figures; I think they are more realistic than yours.

Back when U. S. milsurp rifles were cheap and plentiful, there was quite a cottage industry in converting them to sporter rifles, and it could be done for less than the cost of a comparable Rem or Win rifle. I did it myself in the early 1960's. Nowadays, U. S. milsurp bolt actions are collectors' pieces, priced accordingly, the retro parts cost far more, and are harder to come by, and a good gunsmith's hourly rate has gone through the roof.

If you want to do the work as a crash course in home gunsmithing, for heavens' sake get yourself a rifle that has no heirloom value to your family on which to work. It IS an interesting learning experience, converting an old U. S. milsurp, it's just not economical any more.

Only my opinion, of course, and it is YOUR rifle, not mine. A pic or 2 of the old girl would be nice, BTW, and please keep us posted on your decision(s).

madcratebuilder · March 7, 2012, 07:00 AM

You did a excellent job on that 1917 velocette. Looks nicer than any new commercial rifle IMHO. I really like seeing the mil barrel with proof marks. Very cool.

taylorce1 · March 8, 2012, 09:21 AM

I kind of look at it this way, if I take my dads old 72 Chevy C10 and fix it up the way I like it doesn't change the fact it's dads old truck. I just might like the door handles shaved behind the seat tank removed, drop a fuel injected 454 or stroker in it, and add a 14 bolt posi rear end, power steering, disk brakes all around, and centerline wheels. It doesn't make any of the memories I have of dad go away, it reminds me of him every time I look at it or drive it.

I guess my point is you can update things without destroying memories. In fact making it something you truly enjoy using would honor the memories more than tucking it away in the corner never to be seen. I'm just happy dad is still around, even if he scrapped that old Chevy.

oneoldsap · March 8, 2012, 04:32 PM

You really should go with a 9" ford rearend , they'll take 600 HP with no Mods !

HiBC · March 8, 2012, 04:52 PM

I support the idea the OP can do as he pleases.

I also agree that,unless it is a labor of love,and doing the work yourself,and having the skills and tools to do the job right,he would be money ahead to buy a modern quality rifle.

Here is one more thing to consider.I have shot more than a few antelope.It is easy to think of the 600 yd shot,but most of mine have been 200-300,and some 50-75 yds.

The ones that were the most fun,gave me the most quivers,were the ones that were too far,so I saw just that little bit of low ground to crawl to those two sage bushes ,etc till I got a hundred or two hundred yards closer.

I am suggesting you can get your antelope fine with just what you have.

But,you have fun,your way!

March 4, 2012, 06:08 PM	#1
Nathan Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2001 Posts: 6,331	M1917 Sporter Renovation Background: My first hunting rifle was my dad's first deer rifle. It was an M1917 made by Winchester. My dad walked down to Montgomery Wards, I think, and bought this thing in the cosmoline at 12 years old. He and my grandfather sporterized this, occasionally with help from the local gunsmith. Their work made this thing into a serviceable hunting rifle that shoots 1" groups at 100 yards, if you get the trigger pull down. Goals: - Spend under $500 to improve and modernize this sporter into a 0 - 600yd Antelope rifle. - Recontour(maybe ok) or replace the current stock to be more friendly - Refinish stock - Refinish metal with some kind of spray on finish. - Improve trigger pull - Change to cock on open - Rechamber to 30-06 AI - Recrown - Add a good recoil pad. Limbsaver - Rescope to a good mid range scope thinking 4 - 16 x 40 or similar. Questions: Is a Weaver K4 worth anything in trade? Any idea what scope bases could be on this thing?

March 4, 2012, 06:52 PM	#2
taylorce1 Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2005 Location: On the Santa Fe Trail Posts: 8,249	As far as sticking to under $500 it will be tough unless you do most the work yourself. Has the trigger guard been straightened or does it still have the belly in it? Because there are some stocks available but you need to make sure you order the right one. B&C makes a good stock with a good quality recoil pad but it only fits a straightened trigger guard. Boyds and Richard's Microfit will make you a wood stock but the latter will require a lot of fitting. Honestly I think going with the AI is the wrong way to go with this rifle. The barrel will have to be removed and set back to do the chamber properly. I don't know if a .300 WM will clean up the old chamber or not but it will definately improve the performance of the rifle and the action can handle it. However you'll have to open up the feed rails and the bolt face to handle the magnum. I just don't think the 06 AI will gain you anthing other than longer brass life. The Dayton Traister speed lock kit is a great thing to put in the rifle as well as a Timmney trigger and will make the rifle better handling but not necessary, since you state that it is all ready capable of 1" groups as is. Duracoat will be an easy to apply finish that you can do yourself, but it isn't as durable as some others out there. Get a 3-9X40 scope and that will be all that you need, the K4 is worth nothing for trade in but you can sell it for around $45-50 depending on the shape it is in. The way I kind of break things down for your rifle would be: Bell & Carlson synthetic stock $180 Dayton Traister Speed Lock $25 Timmney Sportsman Trigger $55 Bedding kit $30 3-9X40 scope of decent quality $200+ So with what you wanting to do I'm betting you'll surpass $500 pretty quick. I know I sure did when I finished my .300 H&H Enfield project. I paid $100 for the sporterized 1917 rifle already with a speed lock kit and rechambered to .300 H&H with the bolt face and feed rail work already done. I picked up a Richard's Microfit stock for around $90 shipped. Then paid $600 to have the rifle properly bedded and the stock reshaped and have the Timmney trigger installed. Then I spent another $350 on the scope that I put on the rifle. __________________ NRA Life Member

March 4, 2012, 09:53 PM	#3
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	You are looking at about $800-$1200 unless you do the work yourself. Unless you really want an Enfield, you can buy a Winchester Model 70, a Remington 700, a Ruger 77 Mk II/Hawkeye, or even a Sako for less than you will spend on re-vamping a sporterized military rifle, and the resulting hunting rifle will be more pleasant to look at and shoot better. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

March 5, 2012, 09:37 AM	#4
velocette Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 924	Taylorce has it right. The improvements he mentions are all that is needed to make a very nice rifle. I just finished doing my '17 Enfield sporter in 30-06. It shoots right at MOA with ammo I loaded for my Garand. I used a Dayton Traister trigger and cock on opening kit. I straightened & narrowed the trigger guard / magazine plate. Much labor went into the removal of the ears and re-shaping the rear of the receiver. The bolt handle was straightened and shortened. The original barrel was shortened by 1 1/2" to remove the front sight dovetail & given a target crown. All the work was done by hand with no power tools by myself, except for the barrel shortening / crowning and the blueing. Roger __________________ Trigger control + Breath control + Sight alignment = Gun Control. http://www.hrpclub.info/ NRA Smallbore Prone Master, High Power Master

March 5, 2012, 10:29 AM	#5
smoakingun Senior Member Join Date: April 12, 2009 Location: melrose, fl Posts: 634	Your father and grandfather sportered a rifle with their own hands, are you sure you want to change it? __________________ Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove... But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.

March 5, 2012, 06:08 PM	#6
FALshootist Senior Member Join Date: June 24, 2002 Posts: 589	Velocette, very nice rifle.

March 6, 2012, 02:45 PM	#7
Smokey Joe Senior Member Join Date: July 14, 2001 Location: State of Confusion Posts: 2,106	Father and grandfather... Nathan--I'm with Smoakingun on this one. What you now have is a family heirloom, and a pretty accurate one at that. What you will have after all the time, effort, and expense you propose will be an ordinary, albeit accurate, and frankly kinda costly rifle. Other than mebbe installing a Timney trigger in your father/grandfather's rifle, to--as you say--get the trigger pull down, I for one would leave it alone. The Timney for the 1917 is still available, and it's a very easy install. Then you'll still have your father/grandfather's rifle. Leave the Weaver K4 on it, too--It's period-correct, and still a pretty decent 'scope. For the same $$ you propose to spend trashing this family heirloom (yes, that's pretty strong language, but to me at least, family is that important) you could buy yourself a brand-new Savage, with Accustock and Accutrigger ready-installed, in your choice of cartridge. AND a modern 'scope. These new Savages are tackdrivers. Check Scorch's $$ figures; I think they are more realistic than yours. Back when U. S. milsurp rifles were cheap and plentiful, there was quite a cottage industry in converting them to sporter rifles, and it could be done for less than the cost of a comparable Rem or Win rifle. I did it myself in the early 1960's. Nowadays, U. S. milsurp bolt actions are collectors' pieces, priced accordingly, the retro parts cost far more, and are harder to come by, and a good gunsmith's hourly rate has gone through the roof. If you want to do the work as a crash course in home gunsmithing, for heavens' sake get yourself a rifle that has no heirloom value to your family on which to work. It IS an interesting learning experience, converting an old U. S. milsurp, it's just not economical any more. Only my opinion, of course, and it is YOUR rifle, not mine. A pic or 2 of the old girl would be nice, BTW, and please keep us posted on your decision(s). __________________ God Bless America --Smokey Joe

March 7, 2012, 07:00 AM	#8
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	You did a excellent job on that 1917 velocette. Looks nicer than any new commercial rifle IMHO. I really like seeing the mil barrel with proof marks. Very cool.

March 8, 2012, 09:21 AM	#9
taylorce1 Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2005 Location: On the Santa Fe Trail Posts: 8,249	I kind of look at it this way, if I take my dads old 72 Chevy C10 and fix it up the way I like it doesn't change the fact it's dads old truck. I just might like the door handles shaved behind the seat tank removed, drop a fuel injected 454 or stroker in it, and add a 14 bolt posi rear end, power steering, disk brakes all around, and centerline wheels. It doesn't make any of the memories I have of dad go away, it reminds me of him every time I look at it or drive it. I guess my point is you can update things without destroying memories. In fact making it something you truly enjoy using would honor the memories more than tucking it away in the corner never to be seen. I'm just happy dad is still around, even if he scrapped that old Chevy. __________________ NRA Life Member Last edited by taylorce1; March 8, 2012 at 08:42 PM.

March 8, 2012, 04:32 PM	#10
oneoldsap Senior Member Join Date: September 16, 2009 Location: I live in the foot of the Green Mountains of Vermont Posts: 1,602	You really should go with a 9" ford rearend , they'll take 600 HP with no Mods !

March 8, 2012, 04:52 PM	#11
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,287	I support the idea the OP can do as he pleases. I also agree that,unless it is a labor of love,and doing the work yourself,and having the skills and tools to do the job right,he would be money ahead to buy a modern quality rifle. Here is one more thing to consider.I have shot more than a few antelope.It is easy to think of the 600 yd shot,but most of mine have been 200-300,and some 50-75 yds. The ones that were the most fun,gave me the most quivers,were the ones that were too far,so I saw just that little bit of low ground to crawl to those two sage bushes ,etc till I got a hundred or two hundred yards closer. I am suggesting you can get your antelope fine with just what you have. But,you have fun,your way!