Sling (Studs) mounting question

antsi · February 13, 2010, 11:44 AM

I have a Savage 110 LH with a wood stock that doesn't have sling studs. I got a set of Uncle Mike's studs and swivels from Midway with the correct screws for mounting in wood. I intend to use a 1907 style leather sling with this rifle (got used to them in High Power and that's just what I've used ever since).

My question is, is there any rhyme or reason as to exactly where you locate the studs/swivels? Perusing my guns that had studs/swivels when I got them, they generally seem to be located about 1-1.5 inches in from the forend and 1.5-2 inches from the butt. Is there some adjustment or fitting issue that I should be looking at, or is this just one of things where you eyeball a spot and drill a hole?

Doyle · February 13, 2010, 12:14 PM

Just eyeball and drill. For the front, make sure it is far enough back so that you aren't putting too much stress on the end of the stock. The hardest part is making sure you drill staight. I did my first one crooked. Then, I bought a drill press.

antsi · February 13, 2010, 12:20 PM

Yes, the drill press is part of the plan. Was also thinking I would use a center drill first, and drill a guide hole, before drilling the "real" hole.

Scorch · February 13, 2010, 01:38 PM

I generall mount studs 3" from the toe and from the end of the forearm. It just looks right.

Pahoo · February 13, 2010, 02:03 PM

antsi
If you bought a set of Uncle Mikes and they were speced out for your model, then your instructions were included. The buttstock is pretty much standard but the forend will vary, depending on your model. For the buttstock, the instructions say 2-1/2" from the toe. I try to maintain this but may very depending on the thickness and composition of the buttplate or buttpad. For the forend, instructins say 13" to 17" forward of the trigger. They make a drilling jig and bit but I just go with separate bits. 7/32" for the countersink and 5/32" for the main shank or threaded portion. I lay a strip of masking tape in the general location, measure and mark with a pencil. I then scribe a small mark or indent with the edge of a file, on the round, as a starting point. Drill my holes and install studs. Some folks like to apply glue to the threads and others put a little bees wax or paraphine. Carefully square them up and thread it home. Remove the masking tape. Know that i could not locate a picture of this model number. Good luck and .....

Be Safe !!!

James K · February 13, 2010, 03:41 PM

Definitely use the countersink. That way the stud goes on a flat surface, not on the curve of the stock, which looks like heck.

You say "mounting in wood". I assume the front swivel came with a machine screw that goes into a ferrule on the inside. Use it. Foreends are often thin and screws can pull out, also studs put in with a wood screw can scratch the barrel and cause accuracy problems to boot. (OK, I know it sounds silly, but I have seen guys use a rear type screw on the front, not realizing it was contacting the barrel.)

Jim

antsi · February 13, 2010, 07:24 PM

THanks for the tips guys.
The install came out looking pretty good.

JK, the front end didn't have ferrule. There was plenty of wood to drill the depth they specified. The screws went in very tight with a feeling of good "bite."

Pahoo · February 14, 2010, 10:36 AM

antsi
So glad the job came out and now you can assist those who might face this task. After some time has passed and you feel that your wood mass is in question, remove the front stud and install a bit of glue in the hole. This will seal the hole and possibly prevent any splitting. It's your call ....

Be Safe !!!

February 13, 2010, 11:44 AM	#1
antsi Member Join Date: April 20, 2002 Posts: 92	Sling (Studs) mounting question I have a Savage 110 LH with a wood stock that doesn't have sling studs. I got a set of Uncle Mike's studs and swivels from Midway with the correct screws for mounting in wood. I intend to use a 1907 style leather sling with this rifle (got used to them in High Power and that's just what I've used ever since). My question is, is there any rhyme or reason as to exactly where you locate the studs/swivels? Perusing my guns that had studs/swivels when I got them, they generally seem to be located about 1-1.5 inches in from the forend and 1.5-2 inches from the butt. Is there some adjustment or fitting issue that I should be looking at, or is this just one of things where you eyeball a spot and drill a hole?

February 13, 2010, 01:38 PM	#4
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	I generall mount studs 3" from the toe and from the end of the forearm. It just looks right. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

February 13, 2010, 02:03 PM	#5
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	antsi If you bought a set of Uncle Mikes and they were speced out for your model, then your instructions were included. The buttstock is pretty much standard but the forend will vary, depending on your model. For the buttstock, the instructions say 2-1/2" from the toe. I try to maintain this but may very depending on the thickness and composition of the buttplate or buttpad. For the forend, instructins say 13" to 17" forward of the trigger. They make a drilling jig and bit but I just go with separate bits. 7/32" for the countersink and 5/32" for the main shank or threaded portion. I lay a strip of masking tape in the general location, measure and mark with a pencil. I then scribe a small mark or indent with the edge of a file, on the round, as a starting point. Drill my holes and install studs. Some folks like to apply glue to the threads and others put a little bees wax or paraphine. Carefully square them up and thread it home. Remove the masking tape. Know that i could not locate a picture of this model number. Good luck and ..... Be Safe !!! Last edited by Pahoo; February 13, 2010 at 02:13 PM.

February 13, 2010, 12:14 PM	#2
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	Just eyeball and drill. For the front, make sure it is far enough back so that you aren't putting too much stress on the end of the stock. The hardest part is making sure you drill staight. I did my first one crooked. Then, I bought a drill press.

February 13, 2010, 12:20 PM	#3
antsi Member Join Date: April 20, 2002 Posts: 92	Yes, the drill press is part of the plan. Was also thinking I would use a center drill first, and drill a guide hole, before drilling the "real" hole.

February 13, 2010, 03:41 PM	#6
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Definitely use the countersink. That way the stud goes on a flat surface, not on the curve of the stock, which looks like heck. You say "mounting in wood". I assume the front swivel came with a machine screw that goes into a ferrule on the inside. Use it. Foreends are often thin and screws can pull out, also studs put in with a wood screw can scratch the barrel and cause accuracy problems to boot. (OK, I know it sounds silly, but I have seen guys use a rear type screw on the front, not realizing it was contacting the barrel.) Jim

February 13, 2010, 07:24 PM	#7
antsi Member Join Date: April 20, 2002 Posts: 92	THanks for the tips guys. The install came out looking pretty good. JK, the front end didn't have ferrule. There was plenty of wood to drill the depth they specified. The screws went in very tight with a feeling of good "bite."

February 14, 2010, 10:36 AM	#8
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	antsi So glad the job came out and now you can assist those who might face this task. After some time has passed and you feel that your wood mass is in question, remove the front stud and install a bit of glue in the hole. This will seal the hole and possibly prevent any splitting. It's your call .... Be Safe !!!