Oxpho Blue

10mm · April 25, 2002, 07:17 AM

I have some Oxpho blue that I want to use to blue a 1911 while I decide what frontstrap treatment I want and before I decide on a final finish (this is an in-the-white gun). I have heard of a hot water method of using oxpho blue that supposedly gives a great, even finish. I read about it on one of the gun forums but through the search features I have not been able to find it. Anyone know the technique and care to share? Thanks.

Clemson · April 25, 2002, 10:44 AM

Call Brownell's Tech Service people and ask them this question. The hot water methods that I am familiar with are actually accelerated rust bluing methods (Herter's Belgian Blue and Pilkingtons come to mind). The rust blue is an honest alternative to hot, caustic blues. Most cold blues are not as durable.

gyp_c2 · April 25, 2002, 11:32 AM

pistolsmith.com had some info re: cold blue.
Search under gyp_c2 and/or John Lawson...

10mm · April 25, 2002, 12:19 PM

What about bluing of the internal areas of the slide and frame? How is that accomplished? Same for the small parts? Does the fact that the parts are so small make it difficult to blue them? I think I may send my slide out to be professionally blued and cold blue the frame until I decide on a frontrap treatment.

gyp_c2 · April 26, 2002, 02:09 PM

Cold blue is great for the temporary uses and to do smaller areas...You have to dip the stuff to get the real nice (semi) permanent deep blues that look so nice...although, you might be surprised with the variations you can come up with by varying the components and temps...

Khornet · May 1, 2002, 06:56 AM

Works fine in a pinch, for small areas and for places which won't get much handling or wear. But a good hot blue will last and look better, especially for large surfaces such as barrels and receivers.

Walt Sherrill · May 1, 2002, 08:37 PM

Hot blue is always better than cold blue, but I've got a "shooter" Luger I took down to the white and then reblued using Ox-Pho blue. I defy you to pick it out from amongst several factory-blued guns.

Put Ox-pho blue on in very thin coats, using a damp (not wet) patch or clean rag. As others have suggested, clean the gun thoroughly, use gloves to keep oil (from your hands) off the metal, and even heat it with a hair dryer. Then apply away.

You'll be surprised at how good it CAN look. And how durable it will prove to be. I have not had similar success with other brands, and I've tried a bunch...

JNewell · May 1, 2002, 08:47 PM

Agree. Did a M1911 that was basically in the white with Oxpho and it did -- and does -- look as good as some hot blue jobs. Doesn't look like 1918 Colt factory bluing, but that's a different kettle of...salts.

Strayhorn · May 3, 2002, 03:19 PM

I've also had good results with Oxpho. Picked up a vet bring-back Walther Model 4 at an estate sale which the old gentleman had taken down to the white in anticipation of re-blueing it. Alas, Father Time caught up with him before he could do it and I decided to finish the job.

If you are patient and follow the directions carefully, you can achieve a deep, consistent result. I was even able to get the deep, almost black finish you find on the older Walthers.

It won't fool an expert, but it sure looks nice in the display case.

April 25, 2002, 07:17 AM	#1
10mm Member Join Date: November 26, 2000 Posts: 67	Oxpho Blue I have some Oxpho blue that I want to use to blue a 1911 while I decide what frontstrap treatment I want and before I decide on a final finish (this is an in-the-white gun). I have heard of a hot water method of using oxpho blue that supposedly gives a great, even finish. I read about it on one of the gun forums but through the search features I have not been able to find it. Anyone know the technique and care to share? Thanks.

April 25, 2002, 10:44 AM	#2
Clemson Senior Member Join Date: March 9, 2001 Location: Greenwood, SC Posts: 875	Call Brownell's Tech Service people and ask them this question. The hot water methods that I am familiar with are actually accelerated rust bluing methods (Herter's Belgian Blue and Pilkingtons come to mind). The rust blue is an honest alternative to hot, caustic blues. Most cold blues are not as durable. __________________ NRA Endowment Member, NRA Certified Instructor CWP Holder US Army veteran Gunsmith www.boltandbarrel.com

April 25, 2002, 11:32 AM	#3
gyp_c2 Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2000 Location: Colorado...Louisiana Posts: 387	pistolsmith.com had some info re: cold blue. Search under gyp_c2 and/or John Lawson... __________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>g2<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< AVERT

April 25, 2002, 12:19 PM	#4
10mm Member Join Date: November 26, 2000 Posts: 67	Internals What about bluing of the internal areas of the slide and frame? How is that accomplished? Same for the small parts? Does the fact that the parts are so small make it difficult to blue them? I think I may send my slide out to be professionally blued and cold blue the frame until I decide on a frontrap treatment.

April 26, 2002, 02:09 PM	#5
gyp_c2 Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2000 Location: Colorado...Louisiana Posts: 387	Cold blue is great for the temporary uses and to do smaller areas...You have to dip the stuff to get the real nice (semi) permanent deep blues that look so nice...although, you might be surprised with the variations you can come up with by varying the components and temps... __________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>g2<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< AVERT

May 1, 2002, 06:56 AM	#6
Khornet Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2001 Location: NH Posts: 585	Oxpho-Blue Works fine in a pinch, for small areas and for places which won't get much handling or wear. But a good hot blue will last and look better, especially for large surfaces such as barrels and receivers. __________________ The M1 does MY talking!

May 1, 2002, 08:37 PM	#7
Walt Sherrill Senior Member Join Date: February 15, 1999 Location: Winston-Salem, NC USA Posts: 6,348	Hot blue is always better than cold blue, but I've got a "shooter" Luger I took down to the white and then reblued using Ox-Pho blue. I defy you to pick it out from amongst several factory-blued guns. Put Ox-pho blue on in very thin coats, using a damp (not wet) patch or clean rag. As others have suggested, clean the gun thoroughly, use gloves to keep oil (from your hands) off the metal, and even heat it with a hair dryer. Then apply away. You'll be surprised at how good it CAN look. And how durable it will prove to be. I have not had similar success with other brands, and I've tried a bunch...

May 1, 2002, 08:47 PM	#8
JNewell Senior Member Join Date: March 12, 2000 Posts: 1,092	Agree. Did a M1911 that was basically in the white with Oxpho and it did -- and does -- look as good as some hot blue jobs. Doesn't look like 1918 Colt factory bluing, but that's a different kettle of...salts.

May 3, 2002, 03:19 PM	#9
Strayhorn Senior Member Join Date: April 9, 2000 Location: Central NC Posts: 339	I've also had good results with Oxpho. Picked up a vet bring-back Walther Model 4 at an estate sale which the old gentleman had taken down to the white in anticipation of re-blueing it. Alas, Father Time caught up with him before he could do it and I decided to finish the job. If you are patient and follow the directions carefully, you can achieve a deep, consistent result. I was even able to get the deep, almost black finish you find on the older Walthers. It won't fool an expert, but it sure looks nice in the display case. __________________ Ken Strayhorn "We spent the night at Strayhorn's farm, about nine miles from Hillsboro." -- Lt.Gen. Wade Hampton