March 6, 2013, 12:53 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: July 3, 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Spring kit DYI
Howdy,
I recently started a website out of boredom and to practice my writing skills. Part of this website is writing DYI's on any project I might be working on. My first DYI is installing a wolf spring kit in my S&W model 18. Since 99.9% of the men and woman on this website know more than me about firearms I am looking for feedback on this write up. I am looking for ANY critique you can give me. From the writing itself to how I did the installation. Also correcting anything I may have done wrong or just a better way of doing things. Thank you all in advance for your feedback I have learned so much from all of you in the past. Here is the link to the DIY post.http://sharpasamarble.com/ Last edited by Chowder; March 6, 2013 at 01:29 PM. |
March 6, 2013, 11:57 AM | #2 |
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DIY = Doing It Yourself . DYI ?
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March 6, 2013, 01:27 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Also, the new Domain is sharpasamarble.com, I fixed the link. And it is under the projects tab. Thanks. |
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March 7, 2013, 09:21 AM | #4 | |||
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Chowder,
Looks pretty good. I spotted one typo. Correction in red: Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
That's all on the write-up. I can suggest another thing to do to the revolver, however. An old Smith & Wesson Armorer's School trick is to take a bottle of Break Free CLP and shake it well to suspend the Teflon, then mix a slurry of it with some JB Bore Compound. The slurry is used to lubricate the reassembled action. The gun is then operated double-action (use snap caps in the .22) until you feel the JB break down and the double-action pull smooth out. What this does is the JB polishes the moving surfaces and works the Teflon into them to produce a silky smooth feel. Clean out and re-lube with the Break-Free and work it a little more. Afterward I like to clear the Break-Free off with Gunzilla and just wipe it dry and reassemble it. The Gunzilla leaves a lubricating layer that's thin and doesn't attract dust. I would not operate the gun single-action with that slurry in place. You don't want to mess with a crisp single-action trigger that already is at the release weight you want.
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March 7, 2013, 12:52 PM | #5 | |
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Thanks for the proof read Unclenick! It is always great to have a second set of eyes on my writing. The way things are written always makes sense to the person who actually wrote it haha.
I rewrote the section on the rebound spring removal, I like your idea of a upward angle picture and once I get a tripod or an extra hand I think I will do that. It now reads: Quote:
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March 9, 2013, 09:55 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: January 9, 2013
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With spring kits that are supposed to "smooth the action" I like to compare the primers/rims of ammo fired before and after the new springs go in. I'm not comfortable with firing pin marks that are obviously less pronounced than the original.
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March 9, 2013, 10:25 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: July 3, 2012
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I used the standard power main spring so it beat the hell out of my snap caps while testing the pull. Going to the range today most likely to give it the official test.
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