firing pin stuck in primer! HELP

USCG · September 11, 2011, 11:19 AM

Friday while i was at the range i was shooting some of the left over reloads that i had for my S&W 500 from the man that i bought my revolver from, I have never had issues until now...

From the look of what i can see from the side of the cylinder it looks like my frame mounted firing pin is stuck in the primer, so my cylinder will not open, and i can not get the pin out, does anyone have any recommendations?

M.O.A. · September 11, 2011, 12:16 PM

can you poke it out form the barrel .

columbia_shotguneer · September 11, 2011, 01:06 PM

Not sure but here's a poke at this, Can you cock the hammer so that the cylinder can turn? I was thinking cycling the cylinder enough times might free the firing pin.

USCG · September 11, 2011, 01:19 PM

last night i tried a bunch of different ways to push the pin out, and the hammer wont cock, and the cylinder wont spin, its pretty much locked up.

PetahW · September 11, 2011, 02:43 PM

A piece of 3/8" drill rod, about an inch longer than the distance from the muzzle to the rear of the cylinder, with about 1/2" of the tip turned down far enough to pass through the flash hole of the fired case, popped with a heavy hammer, should drive the FP back into the recoil face.

Fish the turned rod downbore, and fiddle the narrowed tip into the flash hole before thwacking.
First remove the grips & support the gripframe solidly in a padded bench vise.

.

claymore1500 · September 11, 2011, 02:48 PM

Just a thought, Locate a thin brazing rod (small enough to fit thru the flash hole) or sand it down to fit, clean the flux from the rod and fish around to find the right spot and tap it with a small hammer, It should strike the anvil and possably free the pin.

hunter52 · September 11, 2011, 03:11 PM

Or you just might shake it loose by giving the side plate a whack or two with a plastic or rubber face hammer, mallet ,shelaileigh,etc.

James K · September 11, 2011, 05:16 PM

Get a huge sledge hammer and hit it several hard blows. Then go buy another one.

Seriously, why not just remove the side plate and pull the firing pin back from the inside? I have no idea why the firing pin would stick in the primer; you might find it is binding from some other cause than the primer.

Jim

USCG · September 11, 2011, 10:04 PM

ill have to try to get a rod the right size, i think thats the best bet, the firing pin isnt mounted on the hammer so the primer is holding it inside the frame where i cant reach it.

jimbob86 · September 11, 2011, 10:09 PM

Quote:

I have no idea why the firing pin would stick in the primer;

...... mehbee THIS has something to do with it?

Quote:

i was shooting some of the left over reloads that i had for my S&W 500 from the man that i bought my revolver from, I have never had issues until now...

A little hot were they?

Chuck Dye · September 11, 2011, 10:26 PM

Do you reload or know any reloaders? The decapping pin can be removed from most dies for replacement. Take a turn or two of tape around the pin to protect the rifling, drop the pin down the up turned barrel, shake a bit to get the pin into the flash hole, use a dowel and hammer to loosen the firing pin.

An alternative thought occurs: could what you see be not the firing pin but primer cup that has flowed into the firing pin hole?

Gunplummer · September 11, 2011, 10:55 PM

I'm with jimbob86. The F/pin is probably welded to the primer. I have had to take a mallet to bolt actions that welded in. Good luck with that.

USCG · September 11, 2011, 11:13 PM

the welding might be possible, the issue with the loads wasnt that they were too hot, but that they were older loads before the 500 brass was loaded with rifle primers, so the pin had pierced a couple of primers before but they were just barely pierced.

James K · September 12, 2011, 12:11 AM

Did you or the previous owner attempt to lighten the hammer spring tension? Pierced primers are NOT the result of a bad primer or a sharp firing pin, they are the result of a mainspring (hammer spring) that is too light, so that the internal pressure in the primer can blow a piece of it back into the firing pin hole. That leaves the typical round hole in the primer and a piece of brass in the firing pin hole. If part of the primer pushes back into the firing pin hole but does not fully separate from the primer, the gun will be locked up just as you describe. I think you need to check closer before following the advice to drive the firing pin back. You might just lock the gun up worse.

Jim

USCG · September 12, 2011, 12:57 AM

The smith and wesson 500s have a problem with pistol primers because they cant stand up to the high pressure, from what i can see from the side, it looks like its just the firing pin stuck through the primer.

James K · September 12, 2011, 09:31 PM

Since you are familiar with the problem, it is a simple matter to remove the sideplate and pull the firing pin back. Just use a good screwdriver and ease off the mainspring tension screw before removing the sideplate.

Jim

USCG · September 19, 2011, 01:56 PM

fixed it, it took a combination of hammering a filed down nail into the primer pocket, and taking apart the internals to get the cylinder to spin, might need to replace the firing pin though, has anyone dealt with replacing one before?

September 11, 2011, 11:19 AM	#1
USCG Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Location: RI/CT/MA Posts: 74	firing pin stuck in primer! HELP Friday while i was at the range i was shooting some of the left over reloads that i had for my S&W 500 from the man that i bought my revolver from, I have never had issues until now... From the look of what i can see from the side of the cylinder it looks like my frame mounted firing pin is stuck in the primer, so my cylinder will not open, and i can not get the pin out, does anyone have any recommendations? __________________ FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96

September 11, 2011, 01:06 PM	#3
columbia_shotguneer Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2011 Location: ne florida Posts: 148	Not sure but here's a poke at this, Can you cock the hammer so that the cylinder can turn? I was thinking cycling the cylinder enough times might free the firing pin. __________________ living in FL but my home's in alabama! From Squirrel to Elephant, the Shotgun is your gun. sincerely, Blain

September 11, 2011, 01:19 PM	#4
USCG Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Location: RI/CT/MA Posts: 74	no dice last night i tried a bunch of different ways to push the pin out, and the hammer wont cock, and the cylinder wont spin, its pretty much locked up. __________________ FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96

September 11, 2011, 02:48 PM	#6
claymore1500 Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2008 Location: northcoast, Ohio Posts: 260	Just a thought, Locate a thin brazing rod (small enough to fit thru the flash hole) or sand it down to fit, clean the flux from the rod and fish around to find the right spot and tap it with a small hammer, It should strike the anvil and possably free the pin. __________________ Where there's a will, I want to be in it.

September 11, 2011, 10:04 PM	#9
USCG Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Location: RI/CT/MA Posts: 74	ill have to try to get a rod the right size, i think thats the best bet, the firing pin isnt mounted on the hammer so the primer is holding it inside the frame where i cant reach it. __________________ FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96

September 11, 2011, 12:16 PM	#2
M.O.A. Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2011 Location: south indiana Posts: 555	can you poke it out form the barrel .

September 11, 2011, 02:43 PM	#5
PetahW Senior Member Join Date: September 19, 2008 Posts: 4,678	A piece of 3/8" drill rod, about an inch longer than the distance from the muzzle to the rear of the cylinder, with about 1/2" of the tip turned down far enough to pass through the flash hole of the fired case, popped with a heavy hammer, should drive the FP back into the recoil face. Fish the turned rod downbore, and fiddle the narrowed tip into the flash hole before thwacking. First remove the grips & support the gripframe solidly in a padded bench vise. .

September 11, 2011, 03:11 PM	#7
hunter52 Senior Member Join Date: January 27, 2011 Location: Colorado Posts: 101	Or you just might shake it loose by giving the side plate a whack or two with a plastic or rubber face hammer, mallet ,shelaileigh,etc.

September 11, 2011, 05:16 PM	#8
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Get a huge sledge hammer and hit it several hard blows. Then go buy another one. Seriously, why not just remove the side plate and pull the firing pin back from the inside? I have no idea why the firing pin would stick in the primer; you might find it is binding from some other cause than the primer. Jim

September 11, 2011, 10:26 PM	#11
Chuck Dye Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 2002 Location: Oregon-The wet side. Posts: 949	Do you reload or know any reloaders? The decapping pin can be removed from most dies for replacement. Take a turn or two of tape around the pin to protect the rifling, drop the pin down the up turned barrel, shake a bit to get the pin into the flash hole, use a dowel and hammer to loosen the firing pin. An alternative thought occurs: could what you see be not the firing pin but primer cup that has flowed into the firing pin hole? __________________ Gee, I'd love to see your data!

September 11, 2011, 10:55 PM	#12
Gunplummer Senior Member Join Date: March 11, 2010 Location: South East Pa. Posts: 3,364	I'm with jimbob86. The F/pin is probably welded to the primer. I have had to take a mallet to bolt actions that welded in. Good luck with that.

September 11, 2011, 11:13 PM	#13
USCG Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Location: RI/CT/MA Posts: 74	weld the welding might be possible, the issue with the loads wasnt that they were too hot, but that they were older loads before the 500 brass was loaded with rifle primers, so the pin had pierced a couple of primers before but they were just barely pierced. __________________ FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96

September 12, 2011, 12:11 AM	#14
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Did you or the previous owner attempt to lighten the hammer spring tension? Pierced primers are NOT the result of a bad primer or a sharp firing pin, they are the result of a mainspring (hammer spring) that is too light, so that the internal pressure in the primer can blow a piece of it back into the firing pin hole. That leaves the typical round hole in the primer and a piece of brass in the firing pin hole. If part of the primer pushes back into the firing pin hole but does not fully separate from the primer, the gun will be locked up just as you describe. I think you need to check closer before following the advice to drive the firing pin back. You might just lock the gun up worse. Jim

September 12, 2011, 12:57 AM	#15
USCG Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Location: RI/CT/MA Posts: 74	The smith and wesson 500s have a problem with pistol primers because they cant stand up to the high pressure, from what i can see from the side, it looks like its just the firing pin stuck through the primer. __________________ FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96

September 12, 2011, 09:31 PM	#16
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Since you are familiar with the problem, it is a simple matter to remove the sideplate and pull the firing pin back. Just use a good screwdriver and ease off the mainspring tension screw before removing the sideplate. Jim

September 19, 2011, 01:56 PM	#17
USCG Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Location: RI/CT/MA Posts: 74	fixed fixed it, it took a combination of hammering a filed down nail into the primer pocket, and taking apart the internals to get the cylinder to spin, might need to replace the firing pin though, has anyone dealt with replacing one before? __________________ FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96