S&W Trigger Help

Nick_C_S · August 23, 2014, 07:42 PM

Hi, I was thinking about putting this in the Smithy section, but it seems there's a lot of rifle stuff there.

I have a new Smith model 67-5. It is purely a competition gun and will see no self defense duty. I bought it new this spring, and immediately sent it to Apex Tactical for a trigger job, chamfered charge holes, and a fiber optic front sight.

I am pleased with their work - except - I do get the occasional light primer strike. With Federal primers, about 1 in 50 will result in a pierced/blown primer (no failures to ignite though). With Winchester primers, about 1 in 200 will fail to ignite. With CCI primers - well - I just won't bother using them for this gun. . . problem solved for CCI's.

So my question is (Finally !!

): Is there quick and easy way to add just a little more spring tension to the trigger? I don't mind a heavier trigger pull - no problem there. I just need the pin to strike the primer a little harder, that's all.

Thanks,
- Nick.

nomikes · August 23, 2014, 07:47 PM

A Randy Lee solution: When you reload and are priming turn the casing half way around a give it a second press.

Of course makes sure the main spring screw is tight. They do come loose.

Dragline45 · August 23, 2014, 07:55 PM

Check the tension on the strain screw, if it's loose it can cause light primer strikes. I would also call them and ask what weight main spring they used, you might want to bump it up a pound or two.

Nick_C_S · August 23, 2014, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Of course makes sure the main spring screw is tight. They do come loose.

Check. It's was tight.

Dragline45 · August 23, 2014, 08:09 PM

Then if the strain screw is tight, chances are you need to go with a heavier mainspring. Ask them exactly what springs they switched out and to what weight. Personally, the only springs I change out on my revolvers are the rebound spring, and I don't bump it down very much because I don't want short stroking.

MrBorland · August 23, 2014, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick_C_S

Is there quick and easy way to add just a little more spring tension to the trigger?

Sure is. Cut a brass shim from one of your cases. Cut it to the same width as the mainspring. Unscrew the strain screw and install the shim between the strain screw and the mainspring. Tighten. Voilá.

Nick_C_S · August 23, 2014, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Sure is. Cut a brass shim. . .

Ah, that makes sense! That's what I was looking for. Thanks Mr. Borland.

There's a lot of sharp people here on TFL.

mchapman · August 23, 2014, 09:09 PM

Another suggesting similar to MR>BORLANDS is to take a spent primer and pry the anvil out of it, next back out the strain screw so that you can slide the primer case you just worked over and place it over the end of the strain screw and then retighten the strain screw, will give you the same effect as cutting the shim, but it's captured over the end of the screw.

Japle · August 26, 2014, 03:23 PM

Is the firing pin mounted on the hammer or in the frame? If it's in the frame, buy an extended firing pin and install it. It's a simple job, cheap and makes the gun much more (like 100%) reliable.

Nick_C_S · August 26, 2014, 04:36 PM

The firing pin is in the frame. Apex replaced it. I don't know if it's longer than the original or whatever, but they definitely replaced it. In the bag of returned customer parts is the original firing pin.

August 23, 2014, 07:42 PM	#1
Nick_C_S Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2013 Location: Idaho Posts: 5,524	S&W Trigger Help Hi, I was thinking about putting this in the Smithy section, but it seems there's a lot of rifle stuff there. I have a new Smith model 67-5. It is purely a competition gun and will see no self defense duty. I bought it new this spring, and immediately sent it to Apex Tactical for a trigger job, chamfered charge holes, and a fiber optic front sight. I am pleased with their work - except - I do get the occasional light primer strike. With Federal primers, about 1 in 50 will result in a pierced/blown primer (no failures to ignite though). With Winchester primers, about 1 in 200 will fail to ignite. With CCI primers - well - I just won't bother using them for this gun. . . problem solved for CCI's. So my question is (Finally !! ): Is there quick and easy way to add just a little more spring tension to the trigger? I don't mind a heavier trigger pull - no problem there. I just need the pin to strike the primer a little harder, that's all. Thanks, - Nick. __________________ Gun control laws benefit only criminals and politicians - but then, I repeat myself. Life Member, National Rifle Association

August 23, 2014, 07:47 PM	#2
nomikes Member Join Date: November 2, 2001 Location: Washington state Posts: 17	A Randy Lee solution: When you reload and are priming turn the casing half way around a give it a second press. Of course makes sure the main spring screw is tight. They do come loose. __________________ nomikes

August 26, 2014, 04:36 PM	#10
Nick_C_S Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2013 Location: Idaho Posts: 5,524	The firing pin is in the frame. Apex replaced it. I don't know if it's longer than the original or whatever, but they definitely replaced it. In the bag of returned customer parts is the original firing pin. __________________ Gun control laws benefit only criminals and politicians - but then, I repeat myself. Life Member, National Rifle Association

August 23, 2014, 07:55 PM	#3
Dragline45 Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2010 Posts: 3,513	Check the tension on the strain screw, if it's loose it can cause light primer strikes. I would also call them and ask what weight main spring they used, you might want to bump it up a pound or two.

August 23, 2014, 08:09 PM	#5
Dragline45 Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2010 Posts: 3,513	Then if the strain screw is tight, chances are you need to go with a heavier mainspring. Ask them exactly what springs they switched out and to what weight. Personally, the only springs I change out on my revolvers are the rebound spring, and I don't bump it down very much because I don't want short stroking.

August 23, 2014, 09:09 PM	#8
mchapman Member Join Date: July 29, 2014 Posts: 38	Another suggesting similar to MR>BORLANDS is to take a spent primer and pry the anvil out of it, next back out the strain screw so that you can slide the primer case you just worked over and place it over the end of the strain screw and then retighten the strain screw, will give you the same effect as cutting the shim, but it's captured over the end of the screw.

August 26, 2014, 03:23 PM	#9
Japle Senior Member Join Date: October 12, 2004 Location: Viera, Florida Posts: 1,340	Is the firing pin mounted on the hammer or in the frame? If it's in the frame, buy an extended firing pin and install it. It's a simple job, cheap and makes the gun much more (like 100%) reliable.