what resins to use on synthetic stock cheeck piece?

CommonSense · October 10, 2012, 09:20 AM

I'm raising the comb and adding more of a cheek piece to a Savage 93R. The darn thing just feels like a kids stock; too short and too low of a cheek-weld for me. It is a black synthetic stock from the factory and I have read what several others have done using Bondo, however, want to investigate something that may be better suited to a permenant improvement. I want it to esentially be "ONE" with the stock, not be something that an off-angle blow to that region woul cause it to break off like the earlier synthetic stocks in the lat 1960s into the 70s...anybody followin me?? knowledgeable responses only please, even though there will be that one guy that suggests using bondo 1/2 way down the thread. If I were making a Master stock to send to a stocksmith to make it, I would do that. Thanks for the input

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WWWJD · October 10, 2012, 09:33 AM

If I were gonna try this, I'd probably get a block of florist's foam. Jam it down on top of the comb to get the mating profil right. Then widdle the foam down to my desired shape for weld. Once that was done, I'd do a fiberglass build up on the weld face only to an 1/8" thickness or so. Let that cure, then repeat the fiber on the mating face side. After some light bondo filling and sanding where needed paint as desired. For mounting, I'd use 45 mil RP foam VHB tape from 3M. The extra thickness will make up for any dimensional errors on the mating faces. I don't know if you've ever used the RP series of VHB.. But it's worth tracking down a roll. It's automotive/aircraft grade, and is no joke. I've used it in several structural applications.

This'd get you to having a custom fiberglass cheek piece without doing any permanent mods to the stock. If you ever decide to take the piece off, you can soak the tape joint in PB blaster or WD-40 and it will eventually come off easy.

Or.... I've got one of these I'll sell you for $30. Don't need it anymore.
http://www.tacticalworks.com/Karsten...t-A-Model.html

~Mark

CommonSense · October 10, 2012, 09:48 AM

Thanks Mark, as far as the finding the profile portion goes, that shouldnt be a problem. I shaved off the top of the comb so it is flat. I will be adding a small piece of oak via 3 screws after reinforcing inside of hollow composite stock to get a better bite for the screws. After this, I will shape the wood after testing the comb height and maybe even play with the cheek piece as well. Once I get it where I like, I will use a polyeurathane construction adhesive to adhere the wood in place along with the screws, then blend it to the stock using some sort of epoxy resin. The epoxy resin to select for this project is what i'm currently playing around with. Any suggestions out their for optimal bond/durability?

WWWJD · October 10, 2012, 10:41 AM

Oh... well... you're already committed to a method. In that case, once I got it where I wanted it I'd go over it with kitty hair then finish sand/blend/paint.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=7891

CommonSense · October 10, 2012, 11:30 AM

I read some other posts about kitty hair not adhering to polyurathane based plastics, something about during the molding process at the factory there being a "releasing agent" inside the actual stock that when in contact with certain solvents and/or heat, say from a catalyst, it has been known to come to the stock's surface and cause poor adhesion...any knowledge of this?

mapsjanhere · October 10, 2012, 12:20 PM

Your injection molded stock is not going to be polyurethane based, it's most likely some polyolefine. Doesn't improve your adhesion issue so. Nothing really sticks to those, and they are much more flexible than the bondo (polyester) or epoxy resins you typically use for sandable shapes. I would insert wood blocks in the hollow spaces of the stock, and fill the rest with polyurethane construction foam. This should give you a good base to screw your cheek piece on. Once your cheek is done, you can use whatever you want to smooth it out, but don't try to get an overlap with the stock - it will pop loose in short order.

Slopemeno · October 10, 2012, 08:11 PM

A glue like E-6000 (Lowes, plumbing, or marine supply stores) will adhere to it, but removing the cheekpiece or glue later might be an issue. You can use an eyedropper and put some toluene on the E-6000 and it should let go, but I'd be worried about it softening the stock.

You might look around and see if you can find a take-off stock for your Savage, and put an adjustable comb on it if you want to really dial your cheekweld.

CommonSense · October 10, 2012, 08:22 PM

I meant the stock was made of polypropalyene, Yeah nothing on earth apparently adheres to it. I am looking to try to screw a block to it after putting something for the screws to bite to inside the stock like your saying... another block r something, then probably use little screws on the outside where the cheek piece will be and adjusting height on those until i feel comfortable that their height wont protrude beyond the surface and let those be what the epoxy adheres to. I stil want to be able to take some off in order to get the exact fit to the stock I'm looking for. I will update yall on the finished product! Thanks for the input. Oh, by the way, imput is ALWAYS still welcome!!

HiBC · October 11, 2012, 04:00 AM

Bummer.

Yes,if you have already cut it,its a problem.I worked with all kinds of plastics and there are some,like polyethylene and polypropylene that just do not stick to glue.(assuming you are correct about it being polypro)

You might try searching for HiTec Specialties.They make a nice lightweight foam core epoxy glass kevlar sort of stock,and there os McMillan,Bell and Carlson,etc.

If you run over a cat it does not help to back up and run over it again.It just gets flatter.

kilotanker22 · October 31, 2012, 10:39 PM

Sorry to bust into your thread, but there is a good chance that your stock is made of HDPE. Or high density polyethelene. In either case a permanent bond can be made with the correct amount of heat on both surfaces. However it would give the cheek piece a kind of shadow line look.

October 10, 2012, 09:20 AM	#1
CommonSense Member Join Date: August 1, 2012 Posts: 33	what resins to use on synthetic stock cheeck piece? I'm raising the comb and adding more of a cheek piece to a Savage 93R. The darn thing just feels like a kids stock; too short and too low of a cheek-weld for me. It is a black synthetic stock from the factory and I have read what several others have done using Bondo, however, want to investigate something that may be better suited to a permenant improvement. I want it to esentially be "ONE" with the stock, not be something that an off-angle blow to that region woul cause it to break off like the earlier synthetic stocks in the lat 1960s into the 70s...anybody followin me?? knowledgeable responses only please, even though there will be that one guy that suggests using bondo 1/2 way down the thread. If I were making a Master stock to send to a stocksmith to make it, I would do that. Thanks for the input. Last edited by CommonSense; October 10, 2012 at 09:40 AM.

October 10, 2012, 09:33 AM	#2
WWWJD Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2011 Location: Central KY Posts: 552	If I were gonna try this, I'd probably get a block of florist's foam. Jam it down on top of the comb to get the mating profil right. Then widdle the foam down to my desired shape for weld. Once that was done, I'd do a fiberglass build up on the weld face only to an 1/8" thickness or so. Let that cure, then repeat the fiber on the mating face side. After some light bondo filling and sanding where needed paint as desired. For mounting, I'd use 45 mil RP foam VHB tape from 3M. The extra thickness will make up for any dimensional errors on the mating faces. I don't know if you've ever used the RP series of VHB.. But it's worth tracking down a roll. It's automotive/aircraft grade, and is no joke. I've used it in several structural applications. This'd get you to having a custom fiberglass cheek piece without doing any permanent mods to the stock. If you ever decide to take the piece off, you can soak the tape joint in PB blaster or WD-40 and it will eventually come off easy. Or.... I've got one of these I'll sell you for $30. Don't need it anymore. http://www.tacticalworks.com/Karsten...t-A-Model.html ~Mark Last edited by WWWJD; October 10, 2012 at 09:45 AM.

October 10, 2012, 10:41 AM	#4
WWWJD Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2011 Location: Central KY Posts: 552	Oh... well... you're already committed to a method. In that case, once I got it where I wanted it I'd go over it with kitty hair then finish sand/blend/paint. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=7891 __________________ *~Mark* NRA Endowment FTW

October 10, 2012, 12:20 PM	#6
mapsjanhere Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2009 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 2,832	Your injection molded stock is not going to be polyurethane based, it's most likely some polyolefine. Doesn't improve your adhesion issue so. Nothing really sticks to those, and they are much more flexible than the bondo (polyester) or epoxy resins you typically use for sandable shapes. I would insert wood blocks in the hollow spaces of the stock, and fill the rest with polyurethane construction foam. This should give you a good base to screw your cheek piece on. Once your cheek is done, you can use whatever you want to smooth it out, but don't try to get an overlap with the stock - it will pop loose in short order. __________________ I used to love being able to hit hard at 1000 yards. As I get older I find hitting a mini ram at 200 yards with the 22 oddly more satisfying.

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October 10, 2012, 09:48 AM	#3
CommonSense Member Join Date: August 1, 2012 Posts: 33	Thanks Mark, as far as the finding the profile portion goes, that shouldnt be a problem. I shaved off the top of the comb so it is flat. I will be adding a small piece of oak via 3 screws after reinforcing inside of hollow composite stock to get a better bite for the screws. After this, I will shape the wood after testing the comb height and maybe even play with the cheek piece as well. Once I get it where I like, I will use a polyeurathane construction adhesive to adhere the wood in place along with the screws, then blend it to the stock using some sort of epoxy resin. The epoxy resin to select for this project is what i'm currently playing around with. Any suggestions out their for optimal bond/durability?

October 10, 2012, 11:30 AM	#5
CommonSense Member Join Date: August 1, 2012 Posts: 33	I read some other posts about kitty hair not adhering to polyurathane based plastics, something about during the molding process at the factory there being a "releasing agent" inside the actual stock that when in contact with certain solvents and/or heat, say from a catalyst, it has been known to come to the stock's surface and cause poor adhesion...any knowledge of this?

October 10, 2012, 08:11 PM	#7
Slopemeno Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2007 Posts: 2,663	A glue like E-6000 (Lowes, plumbing, or marine supply stores) will adhere to it, but removing the cheekpiece or glue later might be an issue. You can use an eyedropper and put some toluene on the E-6000 and it should let go, but I'd be worried about it softening the stock. You might look around and see if you can find a take-off stock for your Savage, and put an adjustable comb on it if you want to really dial your cheekweld.

October 10, 2012, 08:22 PM	#8
CommonSense Member Join Date: August 1, 2012 Posts: 33	I meant the stock was made of polypropalyene, Yeah nothing on earth apparently adheres to it. I am looking to try to screw a block to it after putting something for the screws to bite to inside the stock like your saying... another block r something, then probably use little screws on the outside where the cheek piece will be and adjusting height on those until i feel comfortable that their height wont protrude beyond the surface and let those be what the epoxy adheres to. I stil want to be able to take some off in order to get the exact fit to the stock I'm looking for. I will update yall on the finished product! Thanks for the input. Oh, by the way, imput is ALWAYS still welcome!!

October 11, 2012, 04:00 AM	#9
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	Bummer. Yes,if you have already cut it,its a problem.I worked with all kinds of plastics and there are some,like polyethylene and polypropylene that just do not stick to glue.(assuming you are correct about it being polypro) You might try searching for HiTec Specialties.They make a nice lightweight foam core epoxy glass kevlar sort of stock,and there os McMillan,Bell and Carlson,etc. If you run over a cat it does not help to back up and run over it again.It just gets flatter.

October 31, 2012, 10:39 PM	#10
kilotanker22 Senior Member Join Date: October 14, 2012 Location: North Central, PA Posts: 2,117	Sorry to bust into your thread, but there is a good chance that your stock is made of HDPE. Or high density polyethelene. In either case a permanent bond can be made with the correct amount of heat on both surfaces. However it would give the cheek piece a kind of shadow line look.