Reloading lead bullets

[Plaz]

I am just starting. I am confused with all the different approaches regarding creation of different lead alloys.

Questions:
1. Are particular lead alloys necessary?

2. I intend to use only wheel weights as a source of lead. Should I be adding something to the wheel weight lead or can I use it as is?

3. Are there different loading tables for loading cartridges with lead bullets? If so where are those tables? If I use the same tables what special considerations do I have to take?

[dahermit]

1. Are particular lead alloys necessary?

No. But if you make up a specific alloy, you can repeat it again later.

2. I intend to use only wheel weights as a source of lead. Should I be adding something to the wheel weight lead or can I use it as is?

You can use it as is for pistol bullets, but most people add up to 2% tin to get better casting characteristics (fills out the mold better).

3. Are there different loading tables for loading cartridges with lead bullets? If so where are those tables? If I use the same tables what special considerations do I have to take?

Yes, Lyman produces a cast lead bullet hand loading manual that you should buy because, 1) It has loads for cast lead bullets. 2) It has a fore-section that will answer most of you questions about casting and using lead bullets.

[dardascastbullets]

To add to dahermit's excellent reply......the Lyman Reloading Manual #49. It is the most excellent source for reloading.

[petemo]

I have used wheel weights just as they come. When you melt the lead the tin seperates though. You must add a bit of flux to recombine the tin and the lead otherwise the bullets will be very soft. I use bees wax flux. Had pretty good luck with pistol bullets but rifle bullets not as much

[Crosshair]

I just use straight WW. Make sure to remove the stick on weights. They are nearly pure lead, save them for BP guns.

I use a fish fryer to smelt the lead. Lead WW melt long before zinc, allowing you to easily sort the zinc ones out as they are the ones that don't melt and are floating. skim them off and put them with your clips and slag. Zinc melts at about 787F. There is no reason you should have your smelt temp anywhere close to this. I keep it around 600-650F. As you get experienced, you won't need the thermometer for smelting as you will be continuing to add WW to the melt, keeping the temp down.

For hardness, I don't add anything. If i want soft bullets, about 12 brinell, I air cool them on a damp cloth, if I want hard ones, about 18-20 brinell IIRC, I water drop them into a bucket of water with a towel at the bottom.

Water dropped bullets tend to come out a bit oversized so they will probably need to be sized where air cooled bullets sometimes don't need to be. I tumble lube my bullets with a Alox/Johnsons paste wax mix.

[c.j.sikes]

i have made and shoot lead bullets for 50 years. i use lino type to harden them. size to bore dim. use gas check over 700 ft. lyman lub and sized works best for me , iuse the sofy\t lub, heat not necessery. just a thought i shoot all cal pistolas well as rifle from .22 to 35 whelen. not to worrey little brother, there are more. c. j. sikes

[snuffy]

I have used wheel weights just as they come. When you melt the lead the tin seperates though. You must add a bit of flux to recombine the tin and the lead otherwise the bullets will be very soft. I use bees wax flux. Had pretty good luck with pistol bullets but rifle bullets not as much

Untrue. Nothing can separate tin from lead once it has been alloyed. Same goes for antimony. What DOES happen is; the tin and lead oxidizes at the surface of the melted metal. It reverts to tin and lead oxide. This floats on the surface, it needs to be re-combined with the molten metal, that's what the flux does.

[Plaz]

Where do you get the tin to add to the lead and what proportions do you use?

[snuffy]

95-5 lead free solder. Get the one with 95% tin and 5% antimony. Add 2% tin to 98% of your wheelweights. More than 2% tin is wasted. You add tin to lower the melting point and aid in mold fill-out.

Midway sells pure tin, BUT it's very expensive.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=856328

[David Wile]

Hey Snuffy,

Pete noted that, "When you melt the lead the tin seperates though. You must add a bit of flux to recombine the tin and the lead..."

Then you said his statement was untrue and went on to explain, "Nothing can separate tin from lead once it has been alloyed. Same goes for antimony. What DOES happen is; the tin and lead oxidizes at the surface of the melted metal. It reverts to tin and lead oxide. This floats on the surface, it needs to be re-combined with the molten metal, that's what the flux does."

I would suggest that metals in alloy can part while heated and molten. Alloyed lead and tin should not be confused with the idea of different elements forming compounds. Even compounds can be parted in various ways. I doubt very much that the skin that forms on top of an alloy is simply lead and tin oxide. If they were oxides of lead and tin, the lead oxide would be heavier than the tin. I suspect Pete is correct that tin is parting from the lead-tin alloy as a result of the alloy being heated to a molten state. I do not have any manuals with me at the time, but I think Lyman casting manuals explain that tin will part from the lead-tin alloy as the alloy remains molten over time. And, of course, flux is used to recombine the tin into the lead-tin alloy.

Perhaps some other more chemestry wise folks can chime in here. Then again, I may just not be able to remember what I have read so many years ago.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile

[Plaz]

In adding tin to the wheel weights it was suggested that I use lead free solder with 95 % tin and 5 % antimony. The solder I have seen with these proportions have flux in them. Is that solder with the flux OK?

[kyle663]

you can find lead free solder with out the flux. check hardware store's or if you have a TSC or rural king supply near you.

[Dingoboyx]

when you are molding with any mixture (other than just lead) its a good idea to stir it regularly. If you have the pot on for an extended time without stirring the mixture, you will end up with more lead in the first lot in the run and more tin in the last lot. Stirring makes them more uniform thru the whole run

Muzza

[darkgael]

Casting your own adds a whole 'nother dimension to shooting. In addition, in this day and age, where components, when you can get them, are expensive, it liberates you from that dependence.
A standard word of caution - after you have fluxed/cleaned the raw wheelweights, there will be ash and scrap that you will skim off. That stuff is toxic. Be careful of disposing it.
Pete

[Dingoboyx]

I flux with lanolin (the gooey stuff in sheep's wool) After the pot explodes in a ball of flame, and stinks like a bucket full of old socks from 60 people with athletes foot, used (very) undies, the BO of a gang of about 30 bikers, and an entire pre-school's used nappy bin...... you know the smell :barf: When the fire goes out and I get game enough to get close to the pot again.... I scoop off the black crud and crispy bits to uncover the best looking lead... all shiny and new

I just chuck the crud in the bin? didnt know it was toxic? Now I am worried the guys at the tip where the garbage gets dumped will have 3 heads instead of 2?....

Bugga

Muzza

[dahermit]

I flux with lanolin (the gooey stuff in sheep's wool) After the pot explodes in a ball of flame, and stinks like a bucket full of old socks from 60 people with athletes foot, used (very) undies, the BO of a gang of about 30 bikers, and an entire pre-school's used nappy bin...... you know the smell

Are you seperating the lanolin from the sheep or are you throwing a whole sheep in to get the lanolin in the alloy? From the stink, it sounds like you are using a whole sheep.

[Dingoboyx]

Are you supposed to get the lanolin out of the wool before you throw it in the pot? Never said that in the instruction book! Bwaaaaaa

Naaah, just joshin' ya

I was told it is called "drossing" Got a Jumbo Jar of lanolin.... duz stink tho.... but comes out with the cleanest lead, stinks like old socks and a sheering shed. It does burn too, when you first put the lanolin (a tea spoon) in the hot lead (stand back).... if it doesnt burst into flames, you have to light it, then wait for it to burn away, then start casting

Do you know what the colored coating stuff on lead projectiles or if you can buy it?



Muzza