"De-Lugging" a GP100?

Vireye · July 30, 2013, 06:34 PM

Hey all,

I have a 6" GP100 that is absolutely one of my favorite handguns. However, I'm NOT a huge fan of the full lug on it...partly balance, partly looks.

I was thinking that maybe I could have it "de-lugged" by a 'smith somewhere, but I honestly know nothing about the process.

Anyone done anything similar with a revolver of theirs, and have any insight into this?

**4V50 Gary** · July 30, 2013, 06:42 PM

It would be cheaper to get a Security Six barrel on it. Machine time is expensive.

ETA: Better yet - buy a used Security Six.

Dfariswheel · July 31, 2013, 06:58 PM

The proper process is to put the gun in a milling machine and mill off the metal so as to convert it to a semi-lug barrel.
Then the sides of the cut are machined to conform to the roundness of the barrel.

Once (and never again) I was called on to convert a S&W Model 617 to a semi-lug barrel using nothing but hand tools.
I used a high tension hack saw frame and high speed blades, a good flat file (it wasn't when it was finished) and wet or dry sand cloth.

I sawed slots in the barrel lug TOWARD the bore to act as depth gages and to prevent cutting too deep into the barrel.
I sawed each section off before moving to the next to prevent the cut from drifting off.
I filed the barrel to round the cut and match it to the contour of the round barrel, and removed file and saw marks and gave it the correct finish with the sand cloth.
I finished it by using a Scotchbrite pad to give it the correct grained finish to match the rest of the gun.

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.
It's a VERY risky job because it's very easy to get the cuts off and ruin a barrel. Plus, sawing stainless steel is HARD work.
I was not at home so I didn't have access to my tooling or the man who did my raw machine work.
I only did this under strong protests, but it was for a relative and he wouldn't take NO as an answer.

A good gunsmith with a milling machine can do this. A machine shop "might" be able to do it, but since most machine shops don't have an FFL for gunsmithing it's not legal.

In any case, this is a hard job to do, and an easy job to botch. Botched and you send the gun in to Ruger for a new barrel.

Vireye · August 2, 2013, 03:33 PM

Well as it turns out, my GF works at a gun parts supplier and is able to get me a reasonably priced 6" stainless Security Six barrel.

Any ideas, ballpark, what the cost would be to swap the barrel? Having never done this before I don't know what sort of price-range to expect from a gunsmith...

burrhead · August 4, 2013, 12:51 PM

For a gunsmith who knows what he's doing.....$250-$300-plus. It's not a job of just un-screwing one barrel and screwing on another. The barrel must be indexed, the forcing cone recut, the barrel blended into the frame, etc., etc.
Good luck.

Sevens · August 9, 2013, 10:54 PM

Hmmm.
If you haven't ordered anything yet... The early Ruger GP-100's did actually have NON-full lug barrels. Though I'm not sure if the SIX inch GP's featured this look.

Of course, if you really love the gun, but really don't love the barrel, maybe it's not a solution you'd like, but I'd buy another gun rather than radically altering one that I loved.

Jim Watson · August 9, 2013, 11:36 PM

Are Security Six and GP 100 barrels threaded the same?
I don't know, but you should before you start taking stuff apart.

July 30, 2013, 06:34 PM	#1
Vireye Senior Member Join Date: August 21, 2012 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 202	"De-Lugging" a GP100? Hey all, I have a 6" GP100 that is absolutely one of my favorite handguns. However, I'm NOT a huge fan of the full lug on it...partly balance, partly looks. I was thinking that maybe I could have it "de-lugged" by a 'smith somewhere, but I honestly know nothing about the process. Anyone done anything similar with a revolver of theirs, and have any insight into this?

July 30, 2013, 06:42 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,829	It would be cheaper to get a Security Six barrel on it. Machine time is expensive. ETA: Better yet - buy a used Security Six. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

August 4, 2013, 12:51 PM	#5
burrhead Senior Member Join Date: July 6, 1999 Location: Chihuahuan desert, Texas Posts: 1,148	For a gunsmith who knows what he's doing.....$250-$300-plus. It's not a job of just un-screwing one barrel and screwing on another. The barrel must be indexed, the forcing cone recut, the barrel blended into the frame, etc., etc. Good luck. __________________ Join the GOA, SAF and the TSRA I'm offended by people that are easily offended.

August 9, 2013, 10:54 PM	#6
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	Hmmm. If you haven't ordered anything yet... The early Ruger GP-100's did actually have NON-full lug barrels. Though I'm not sure if the SIX inch GP's featured this look. Of course, if you really love the gun, but really don't love the barrel, maybe it's not a solution you'd like, but I'd buy another gun rather than radically altering one that I loved. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

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July 31, 2013, 06:58 PM	#3
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	The proper process is to put the gun in a milling machine and mill off the metal so as to convert it to a semi-lug barrel. Then the sides of the cut are machined to conform to the roundness of the barrel. Once (and never again) I was called on to convert a S&W Model 617 to a semi-lug barrel using nothing but hand tools. I used a high tension hack saw frame and high speed blades, a good flat file (it wasn't when it was finished) and wet or dry sand cloth. I sawed slots in the barrel lug TOWARD the bore to act as depth gages and to prevent cutting too deep into the barrel. I sawed each section off before moving to the next to prevent the cut from drifting off. I filed the barrel to round the cut and match it to the contour of the round barrel, and removed file and saw marks and gave it the correct finish with the sand cloth. I finished it by using a Scotchbrite pad to give it the correct grained finish to match the rest of the gun. DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME. It's a VERY risky job because it's very easy to get the cuts off and ruin a barrel. Plus, sawing stainless steel is HARD work. I was not at home so I didn't have access to my tooling or the man who did my raw machine work. I only did this under strong protests, but it was for a relative and he wouldn't take NO as an answer. A good gunsmith with a milling machine can do this. A machine shop "might" be able to do it, but since most machine shops don't have an FFL for gunsmithing it's not legal. In any case, this is a hard job to do, and an easy job to botch. Botched and you send the gun in to Ruger for a new barrel.

August 2, 2013, 03:33 PM	#4
Vireye Senior Member Join Date: August 21, 2012 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 202	Well as it turns out, my GF works at a gun parts supplier and is able to get me a reasonably priced 6" stainless Security Six barrel. Any ideas, ballpark, what the cost would be to swap the barrel? Having never done this before I don't know what sort of price-range to expect from a gunsmith...

August 9, 2013, 11:36 PM	#7
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,534	Are Security Six and GP 100 barrels threaded the same? I don't know, but you should before you start taking stuff apart.