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Old February 13, 2009, 10:40 AM   #1
Dead-Nuts-Zero
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Shotshell MEC vs Dillon (and other questions)

Have loaded thousands of skeet loads started back in about 1966 on single stage mec using paper/cork wads, then to plastic w/shot cups, then eventually into a short period of time loading w/progressive mec's, but not my own machines.

Then I stoped completly for 20 some years. Then I started handgun loading w/Lyman turret for a very few years, found a used progressive MEC 12 ga. on ebay for 50 bucks shiped, was assured it had loaded many thousand rds, but being a mec, should have many thousand left in it (also came with seperate resizer machine).

Starting reloading again with new/used ebay 12 ga. loader. I dug out all my old components I had stored away and began reloading with my ebay special (600 or 600 jr.I think), w/MEC manual in hand. Soon found that it was not working properly so thought it was due to different hull set-up with different wads etc. Had crimping and bulging as I recall, not to mention many lbs. of spilled shot cups due to unknown interupted/progressive screwups. decided that it was probably out of time due to wear and due to my attempts to correct problems, pulled the cover over it and has been there idle for 15 years or so.

I want to get back into it. Have a few basic questions...

1). I have Dillon 550 metalic loader for 2-3 years now but not much experience with it yet, but enough to think that a Dillon Shotshell loader could be a much better design than the MEC. What is the ranking in your opinion comparing a progressive mid to upper range MEC to a Dillon? I understand that a big Blue will cost big green$, but is it worth it?

2). I have been cleaning out my old boxes of empty skeet hulls (some paper) that I shot or picked up at the skeet field years ago. Have some AA, some Rem Club I think, and some federal black hulls and Fed. red hulls, all are lowbase target hulls. Question is, what brand hulls would be equal to AA as far as using same wad for say a #8 1-1/8 oz. in 2-3/4" 12 ga? I want to sort old hulls and get started again and need wad selection assistance.

3). Is it possible to have a worn out MEC or is it likely a set-up/adjustment/timing issue? Any tell-tale signs of wear out? And does anyone author a special book dedicated to MEC users or a manual for troubleshooting the older MECs?

I may decide to just go with the Dillon, but it is alot of dough to lay out. But I know once I get started, I will get back into shooting skeet regularly. I am shooting 1100's and 870's in both 12 & 20, so need a hull that will cycle well in semi-auto.

Will drop it here, this is too much questions for one post.

If you have any basic ideas or suggestions to get me restarted, I think I can pick up info as I go. If I didn't have so much leftover components, I would probably just buy new ammo at club prices, but hate to spend money like that.
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Old February 13, 2009, 12:52 PM   #2
Scorch
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My guess is that the MEC is not set up properly. MEC presses are generally pretty good, but they are an economy press, and not as refined as some.
* The bulges and crimp problems are indicative of shotshell/cup incompatibility.
* You cannot substitute components randomly and get good loads.
* AA hulls are unique and there are no hulls on the market that have the same internal shape and volume.
* The spilled powder tells me your press is not set up properly or you are not allowing enough time for the powder to go into the case.
* I have never seen a Dillon shotshell press.
* I have an old Ponsness-Warren press. Interested????

If all else fails, call MEC
http://www.mecreloaders.com/
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Old February 13, 2009, 01:52 PM   #3
snuffy
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Well, you will have to be more specific. It's impossible for a mec 600 jr. to be called a progressive press. It would have to be a 650. Once set up for a specific load combination, a 650 will churn out lots of well made loads. BUT you HAVE to stay with the same hull, wad, primer, shot charge, and powder charge, no changing form one hull to another.

Same goes for the type of hulls you have. And the exact type and number of the wads. Again, what powder are you using and how much?

All or 99% of your questions would be answered by buying and reading a Lyman #5 shotshell handbook. It has all the current types of hulls, wads, primers, powder, along with specific load data for all of them.

The internet is a great place for questions, but hard data in the form of specific loads is in manuals.

The dillon SL-900 is one of the best shotshell loaders made. I wish I had one, but I'm quite happy with my Hornady 366. The most important feature of the dillon is the case feeder. That alone speeds up production, compared to inserting an empty case before pulling the handle on a mec.
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Old February 13, 2009, 03:00 PM   #4
Dead-Nuts-Zero
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It probably is a 650, going from memory have not laid eyes on it in years other than seeing it on top shelf with cover on it. I say progressive because u put empty on one side and finish shell drops out the other side. Had problems with auto primer feed too, but got that working as I remember. Crimp starter would not work well on ome hulls. I have 6 & 8 star. I tried to use a slightly deep crimp, maybe that was a habbit from the old paper hull days.

I understand the hulls are different, but was thinking that there is a wad that will fit AA and another hull too, or maybe a Fed and a RP were same or whatever.

I am dropping a light charge of red dot that is common for Skeet, but don't remember amt. Have a few bars, some with bushings, as I recall. Using Green Dot for 20ga, but that is a older unit.

The Lyman Manual sounds like what I need.

Just a pain in the butt when one stage screws up and interupts the rest of the line. I am used to it with Dillon 4 stage but one bullet vs 1 1/8 #9 is a bit more cleanup...The Chg. bar end hook not always triped bar back as I recall, could be my timing that was screwed up.

WHen I got the press, it came with a note from seller that said it was all ready to go for AA target loads. Possible I had problem when I put it together after shiping??? Once I started to make adjustments, it all went down hill fast.

I have pulled the handle many many times on single stage MEC 250, Super 250 and I think it's a 310 maybe that I have??? All were easy to adjust and change ga. etc. they must be collector items by now!

Just looking for a little basic help as it's been so long and hope to fire it up again soon or buy a new blue. My memory is about 1/3 what it was back then too, so maybe I can't do much till I try it again. Thanks to both for your replys.
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Old February 13, 2009, 08:33 PM   #5
olddrum1
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You may want to check Scorch's PW loader out. If it is one of the progressives it would last you a lifetime. I have four and they are one of the better reloaders out there. I have a friend that bought one of the Dillions and he was not completely satisfied with it after using it for a while. To much adjusting.
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Old February 13, 2009, 09:16 PM   #6
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When I upgraded from a MEC 650, my choice was the Hornady 366. Also considered the Ponsness-Warren and perhaps should have gone with it but decided to stay with all-Hornady progressive loaders on my bench.
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Old February 13, 2009, 11:03 PM   #7
Gazzmann
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I've got 8 MEC single stage reloaders set up for different gauges and shell lenghts, got 'em dialed in and work perfect.
Load evreything from pansy light to heavy magnums.
I have produced thousands of loads, lube them regularly with dry lube (Jig-a-loo dry lube), and just can't wear them out.
One of the best shotshell reloaders out there.
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Old February 13, 2009, 11:36 PM   #8
.45 COLT
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Sounds like you have a 650 that may need adjustment. Properly cleaned and lubed I doubt a person could actually wear out a MEC in a lifetime. parts may need replacement, particularly wad guide fingers, but wear out he press - I don't think so. BTW, both the 600 and 650 presses are progressives. The 600jr is single-stage, thus the "jr".

Quote:
some Rem Club I think,
If those are the BLACK Gun Club hulls, there is no current load data for them. If they are GREEN, they load the same as all current-production Remingtons.

Quote:
I have pulled the handle many many times on single stage MEC 250, Super 250 and I think it's a 310 maybe that I have??? All were easy to adjust and change ga. etc. they must be collector items by now!
They may be collectors' items, but not very valuable ones. I just bought a 250 for $20 and a 310 for $15. Certainly didn't have any use for either one of them, I just happen to like MECs.

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