August 28, 2015, 12:11 AM | #1 |
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Walther P1
Hello everyone!
A Walther P38 is one of my dream guns. I have loved the looks of this gun since I was a kid, in all the WW2 movies... just so cool! Real P38s are out of my price range, but I've come across whats known as the Walther P1. It is basically a post-WW2 alloy framed version of the P38. After hunting around, I've seen them for sale in the sub $500 range, which I can afford. But, it doesn't appear there are many out there anymore. From what I understand a few years ago they could be had from the surplus websites and even at big box stores like Cabelas for very reasonable prices. I am asking if anyone out there knows where I can find one of these guns that's in good overall shape? I would prefer one with the later hex bolt in the reciever and also one with the strengthened "fat" slide. Also, for you P38/P1 ownders, how does the gun shoot? Is it fun, is it accurate? This gun will be a dedicated range pistol only, and also will be used for informal plinking. Are there any tips/tricks I should know about? I really want to buy one of these soon before they go away completely and the price gets to be too much. Thanks so much everyone!! |
August 28, 2015, 04:09 AM | #2 |
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You are a couple of years too late for the surplus offerings, check Gunbroker i'm sure there are P1 listings ([email protected]) to be found there. Allan's has one ugly flat parkerized unit available with a P38 marked slide. The days of finding a $2-300 dollar P1 are just about over.
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August 28, 2015, 06:11 AM | #3 |
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Back when they were available, I bought a like new P1. It came in the military box with test target, holster,and spare mag for $239.
It had the hex bolt frame upgrade and fat slide. I found it to fit my hand like a target pistol. In single action, the trigger was fantastic...short, crisp, with no overtravel. It shot very well. In fact, I shot it at 100yds, and put eight shots on paper...five were in the black, and the other three were just outside the black. Really an excellent pistol.
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August 28, 2015, 06:48 AM | #4 |
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I also bought one years ago at Gander Mountain for $275.00 with holster and spare mag.
It is a accurate and fun gun to shoot! I have many handguns, but that is the one I have in a clip on holster attached to my bed frame rail for when something go's bump in the night. |
August 28, 2015, 07:20 AM | #5 |
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I bought one two years ago at a gun show. The vendor had 3 and I carefully examined each to pick out the best one.
Paid $250 and they threw in a hard case for it and two mags. Its my favorite pistol to shoot. Very comfortable and very accurate. Easy to clean too. I love everything about it really. One of the best gun purchases I have ever made. Plus it just looks cool. You are correct though, a couple of years ago these were all over the place. Now they are starting to dry up fast and prices are rising accordingly. Last one I saw was at Gander Mountain and I think they were asking $450 for it. This was probably a few months ago. |
August 28, 2015, 08:46 AM | #6 |
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I have an eye on a P1 - price is right. Virtually new if not new [never used I believe]. Consignment on an estate sale...tempted tempted tempted....Yep.
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August 28, 2015, 11:51 AM | #7 |
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If you can afford sub $500.00 grab a real P38. https://www.wideners.com/itemdetail....=700|1012|1027
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August 28, 2015, 02:52 PM | #8 |
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You can get the 22 Conversion Unit-doesn't fit the steel frame models, alas.
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August 28, 2015, 04:53 PM | #9 |
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If all I wanted was a shooter, what's a better buy? A Russian capture P38, or a German late production P1? I ask because I have those options locally and I really want to try this type out.
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August 28, 2015, 05:15 PM | #10 |
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I had a WWII P38 (byf42), and a couple of P1's. Sold the P38 years ago to buy something else, still have one of the P1's.
They are basically the same gun, and all shot the same. Unless you want the original, the P1 will do you fine. I would get the one with the hex bolt if youre planning on shooting it a lot (you will want to get that one ). ETA: If youre looking for a nice period type holster for them, Pacific Canvas and Leather have a couple of nice ones. I got this one for about $45..... http://www.pacificcanvasandleather.com/index.php Last edited by AK103K; August 28, 2015 at 05:22 PM. |
August 28, 2015, 06:04 PM | #11 |
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I do want to be able to shoot the gun, quite a bit.
Because of that, I'm leaning towards a later model P1 with the hex bolt and fat slide, for extra durability and if anything else just peace of mind. I'm going to a fairly large gun show in Topeka tomorrow, who knows? Maybe I'll see one? If not, I'll come back with a vengeance... there's a hole BURNING in my wallet, and the hole is screaming "PEE WUN!!! PEE WUN!!!!" |
August 28, 2015, 07:30 PM | #12 |
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Hex bolt was necessary due to aluminum frame. Steel frame (p38) doesb't need it- so i've been told.
Fun gun in SA. DA is a pain. Love mine. |
August 28, 2015, 11:40 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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August 29, 2015, 07:09 AM | #14 |
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I have put mine on paper, and with Remington fmj I managed to keep 5 in 2". My surplus and we'll used Hi-Power will do the same, this is at 20yds.
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August 30, 2015, 11:26 AM | #15 |
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Wartime P.38s are not the most robust designs, the safety mechanism in particular. I love my non-force matched 1944 Spreewek P.38. I don't shoot it well and I don't shoot it often. Funny thing- it doesn't work reliably unless I use 124 gr. 9mm para. My Walther expert tells me that was what it was supposed to shoot. He proved his point by taking my "jam prone" P.38 and ripping off a 'jvd' marked mag of 124 grain just as fast as he could pull the trigger.
Glad I got mine when I did- 525 bucks. |
September 2, 2015, 06:57 PM | #16 |
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My P1 works just fine with 115-grain bullets. I proved this by shooting a whole box through it the day before I went to see the new Man from Uncle movie.
What a disappointment! Napoleon Solo did not use a P38, tricked-out or otherwise No more spoilers and I did like the movie. And to the OP, or anybody else, CDNN is currently selling walnut P38/P1 grips which they claim are made for Walther. I just put them on the P1 and they sure look good. The price is $50 and I have no regrets. Bart Noir
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September 2, 2015, 07:58 PM | #17 |
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Bart, I sincerely hope you did not feel you had to prove anything re: 115gr due to my statement re: 124 grain bullets.
I am referring to my 1944 P.38, not post war P1s. I am not a know-it-all; I am reporting the specific information provided to me regarding wartime P.38 production examples. What can I say? That's what the man tells me. |
September 2, 2015, 09:02 PM | #18 |
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The wartime P.38 safety design was OK until late in the war when they had to use poor metal and some safeties broke when the hammer was dropped with the thumb piece, resulting in full auto fire until the magazine was empty. Actually, the original HP had a better design but the Waffenamt had them redesign it to save a few pfennige. Postwar, Walther redesigned the firing pin and safety system again and AFAIK there have been no more problems.
Jim |
September 3, 2015, 05:00 PM | #19 |
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I get it, I'll stop contributing. I know nothing about the slides cracking, the safety not being a true hammer drop type anyway, or the signal pin riding the top of the bullet in the wartime design.
Bye all, been fun. |
September 3, 2015, 06:06 PM | #20 |
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^ Don't wear your heart on your sleeve so much. People are just contributing what they know as well to the thread.
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Know the status of your weapon Keep your muzzle oriented so that no one will be hurt if the firearm discharges Keep your finger off the trigger until you have an adequate sight picture Maintain situational awareness |
September 3, 2015, 06:30 PM | #21 |
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Wow
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September 3, 2015, 07:57 PM | #22 |
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Knowing the history and issues is perhaps fun for many but for me it would be a headache. Instead of a aspirin I'll take a Walther P5.
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September 4, 2015, 09:58 AM | #23 |
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I bought a post-war, alloy frame marked "P 38", no hex bolt, at a LGS for exactly $500. The finish was a bit worn, but mechanically it was tight.
Love it.... Classic side-arm
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