Aftermarket 10/22 stocks

[steveNChunter]

I have a 10/22 stainless carbine and I want to get an aftermarket sporter stock for it. I dont need anything flashy, fancy, pistol gripped, folding, or "tactical." Just a good stock that will yield the best accuracy. So who makes the best one for under $150 or so?

[CTS]

I really don't think it makes that much difference what particular stock you have as long as it is bedded properly. The rifle can be made to be very accurate in the factory standard carbine stock if set up properly.

[JMP]

I have a Hogue on one of my 10/22s that I really like. I wouldn't hesitate to get another if I was in the market.

http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?...roducts_id=161

Probably find it a lot cheaper somewhere other than direct from Hogue

[steveNChunter]

JMP- I am highly considering the Hogue. Glad to hear you like yours

Slappy- I just dont like the way the factory stock is made, especially the metal strap going around the barrel and forend. My 10/22 already shoots as good as any other unmodified 10/22, I just want it to shoot better. I figured another stock might be a good way to achieve that. I only have experience with making bolt action centerfires more accurate, so I dont know all the "secrets" to make a 10/22 more accurate.
How do you set one up properly?

[Nathan]

Boyd Tacticool sounds like a good fit for you. Ignore the name. It is a fine wood laminate stock.

[Pahoo]

The Hogue is basically a Sporter style and it would be a good choice for me, on a hunter. You can also get a Sporter style in solid hardwood or laminate. Then there are many used sporters out there. The last one I bought, is a thumb-hole laminate. The hold and weld is excellent...

Good luck and;
Be Safe !!!

[scottycoyote]

i was looking at the hogue but ive heard some people say due to the rubber construction the gun shoots differently when its hot and cold, also if you are using a bipod it can cause the stock to shift (no personal experience just what ive heard). Im in the middle of a 1022 build, ive been looking seriously at the vantage rs stock, its a little over 150 but i like its features. The boyd is also a well thought of stock

[steveNChunter]

I still have the factory barrel on my 10/22. If I get a stock with a .920 barrel channel will that cause any problems? I couldnt see how it would matter, just want to make sure. I dont care if it leaves a little extra space between the barrel and stock

[steveNChunter]

I know I said I didnt want fancy or flashy, but for a hundred bucks this Boyd's SS Evolution is kinda growin on me...



What do y'all think?

[JMP]

I've got that style of stock on a Savage 17HMR and love it. Very comfortable to use and I really like the looks of them.

10/22 with the Hogue


Savage 93R17

[steveNChunter]

JMP- how was the fit on the Boyd's? I know yours isnt for a 10/22 but in general, did you have to do any dremel-ing to get it to fit well? Did you bed the action or anything?

[JMP]

It came on the rifle so I can't help you with the fit. Sorry.
It is a very comfortable style to use though. The only problem with it is I like to use a bipod a lot and there is no front sling swivel stud to mount one. I think I'll be ok drilling it and putting one on but I'm a little apprehensive because of the shape of the fore end.

[steveNChunter]

Personally I wouldnt trust either end of that stock for mounting sling swivel studs. Too thin in the wrong places. I usually dont use a bipod on my 10/22 anyway. Im usually on a rest or off-hand

[bedlamite]

I've got an Evo SS stock on my 10/22. Fit was excellent, snug but it dropped right in. Also, steveNChunter is wrong, sling swivels are no problem.

[steveNChunter]

Glad to hear sling swivel studs work in that stock, I was just saying it looked awfully thin to be drilling where the studs usually go.

Have any of y'all had any issues with "barrel droop" when switching to a stock that floats the barrel? If so what did you do to fix it?

Im just using a factory carbine barrel so I dont think I need to be concerned about it.

[JMP]

You can buy v blocks that are stronger and supposedly will stop it from drooping but I've never never had a problem so I've never used them. They are pretty cheap though so it wouldn't be a big deal to get one for your project.

[steveNChunter]

What is the correct torque spec for the v-block screws? Ive heard 16-18 and 28-30 in/lbs. I would think that too much torque on these screws might contribute to barrel droop by pulling it down too far, but thats just an assumption

[madcratebuilder]

Do a search at rimfirecentral.com on how to fix barrel droop.

What ever stock you use it should have a floated barrel and pillar bedding.

[sholling]

Barrel droop is usually from the weight of a heavy 920 steel barrel or a sloppy barrel to receiver fit. It can be addressed with an adjustable v-block or 1" of barrel bedding or better yet both. The adjustable v-block helps you get it lined up parallel with the receiver long enough to bed the stock.

With a 10/22 free floating a laminated wood stock is very often counter productive and 1" of barrel bedding sometimes makes a huge difference in accuracy. That's because the single mounting screw creates a pivot point allowing side to side and up/down wiggle that free floating can make worse. With a 22 a 920 barrel just doesn't get hot enough to cause the wood to swell or to cause temporary barrel warp from top/bottom temperature differentials - which are the usual reasons for free floating a centerfire's barrel. With a factory stock rifle the barrel band clamps the barrel in place and prevents wiggle. With an aftermarket barrel 1" of barrel bedding (sometimes along with receiver bedding) solves the wiggle problem. Note that some manufacturers leave a raised pad in the barrel inlet of their stocks that's intended as poor man's bedding to help support and lock the barrel in place.

OP,

In my experience most wood or laminated aftermarket stocks really benefit from from bedding even if it's just the pillar and pads (pads = poor man's barrel bedding) from the Volquartsen kit. I have a Hogue synthetic stock (not a huge fan) and wood and laminated stocks from Boyd's, Revolution, S&K, and Bell & Carlson and I've found the Boyd's and Revolution fit to be fair with the receiver pockets often just slightly too deep (a minor cosmetic issue) but they work great after bedding. Both had excellent finishes. The fit and finish of Bell & Carlson was excellent.

Edited above to correct stock manufacturer

The best way to pick a stock is based on usage. Different stocks are optimized for different uses. Some are optimized for general use, some for prone shooting, some for benchrest, some for silhouette shooting. Some have a high comb for use with a scope and others like a Revolution Explorer or a Hogue are designed for use with iron sights.


This is an older Revolution Trailblazer inlet for a factory ("sporter") barrel (.920 inlet available) and is a really good design for hunting and plinking and general use. Note the high comb for use with a scope.


This is a now discontinued Revolution stock and is another really good design for hunting and plinking and general use. Again note the high comb for use with a scope.


The near vertical grip and long-long flat-bottom forestock is typical of a stock optimized for benchrest.

[DAVID NANCARROW]

If you otherwise like the stock you have, try a volquartsen bedding kit. Lots cheaper than a new stock and it really helps with the accuracy. Easy to install.

[jmr40]

The wood stocks without checkering are as slick as alligator snot. I like the Hogue for a practical, inexpensive stock.

[steveNChunter]

Well after much thought and online shopping, I have decided to just make my own stock out of the factory one. Im planning on cutting the forend off just behind where the band is supposed to clamp around the barrel and forend, widen out the barrel channel, sand all the finish off the stock, prime it, and paint it. I also plan on using a home-made brass/aluminum insert of some sort to pillar bed the action. Have I lost my mind? Worst case scenario, I screw up the stock and buy an aftermarket one like I was planning on doing in the first place. Ill start a new thread with pics when I get done with it.

[sholling]

Pillar sleeves are just a few dollars but it's worth investing in the Volquartsen kit. Once you have the kit you can buy refills for future projects.

[steveNChunter]

I looked at that kit but I believe I can duplicate whats in it with some common items around my shop. I wouldnt use the pressure pads anyway since I plan on floating the barrel. I ordered the Tactical Solutions V-block to help with any possible barrel droop and give it a sturdier fit.

[madcratebuilder]

Originally Posted by sholling

With a 10/22 free floating a laminated wood stock is very often counter productive and 1" of barrel bedding sometimes makes a huge difference in accuracy. That's because the single mounting screw creates a pivot point allowing side to side and up/down wiggle that free floating can make worse. With a 22 a 920 barrel just doesn't get hot enough to cause the wood to swell or to cause temporary barrel warp from top/bottom temperature differentials - which are the usual reasons for free floating a centerfire's barrel. With a factory stock rifle the barrel band clamps the barrel in place and prevents wiggle. With an aftermarket barrel 1" of barrel bedding (sometimes along with receiver bedding) solves the wiggle problem. Note that some manufacturers leave a raised pad in the barrel inlet of their stocks that's intended as poor man's bedding to help support and lock the barrel in place.

I don't know anyone that uses a pillar that way. The pillar is used to isolate the wood from effecting mounting screw tension. The pillar is also used with bedding at the very rear of the barrel and the rear of the receiver. There is nothing allowed to pivot or wiggle.

Using pads in place of bedding is a band-aid at best.

When using a oem stock and barrel band the first thing you do to the band is open it up so it does not contact the barrel.