Shot mosin, now more questions

[Grizzdude]

It sounds like you just need to sight the rifle in, you have holes touching, awesome! you wont be able to adjust height unless you get an adjustable sight, i got mine from smith sights. So if your shooting right you need to drift the front sight to the right. use a brass punch and a hammer to drift the front sight. Put tape on the punch so you don't scar up your sight. Work the front sight until you start shooting center.

[TMW89]

Ok, thanks everyone.

Maybe one last question...
My trigger is terrible, herendous, an abomination. Whats a good shim to use to reduce the pull on it? I tried a beer tab before and that was apparently too thick. The trigger had absolutely no resistance, ANYWHERE. A little dangerous, eh?
I was thinking like a plastic washer or something?

[Duzell]

ok some are going to get you doing crazy stuff off the bat

let me offer some simpler solutions
one of the issues i have with mosin irons is that its black on black on a black target. now what i did to rectify this was to paint my irons with model paint, lightly at tip. which makes them look more like night sights now, but it did improve my accuracy

now bedding pillars are another thing to think of, as well as adjusting the trigger

mainly you will want to negate as much movement when firing the rifle

if you are trying to really make it accurate, id say get another stock that tends to really improve the groups and stabilize it. also most new stocks dont modify the gun permanently, its just swap in old for new stock, screw in 2 bolts and done

[emcon5]

one of the issues i have with mosin irons is that its black on black on a black target.

The easy solution to this is to use a 6 o'clock hold. With a target that is solid black, you can be reasonably precise putting the pumpkin on a post. I have found the 6 MOA aiming black on NRA highpower targets (and reduced versions of the smae) to work pretty well. You can print a workable version from your PC. (I posted some image files here)

For 50 yards use a 3" circle, for 100 yards, use a 6".

As to the trigger, I cut strips from the side of a soda can once, it seemed to work OK, lessened the pull but not too much. There are also replacement triggers available, and some folks advocate Finnish triggers.

Discussed here back in 2007:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268631

Some modifying info here:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting...gger/index.asp

[TMW89]

Thanks, I was trying to think, "where can I find tin enough metal to shim this thing?"
Turns out the answer was in my hand the whole time, lol
I'll give that a try

[Josh Smith]

TMW,

Don't shim the trigger. Shim the stock and bend the sear a bit.

Here's an old instructional I did:



Or, get an M39 trigger and sear. They're not overly expensive.

Regards,

Josh

[Heavy Metal 1]

Make sure in your efforts to free float the barrel that you may need to remove some wood from under the handguard so that isn't impinging upon the barrel. Check the reciever screws as sometimes they have a tendency to work loose. I lightly polished the sear contact surfaces on my rifle so they were smooth. You need to be real careful if you decide to do that. Mosin Nagant 6 shots 100 yds 1-6-13 001.jpg This is what I get now with open sights & carefully tuned handloads.

[tobnpr]

Polishing sear surfaces most always reduces resistance and lightens/smooths trigger pull. Do NOT remove any metal-including changing the angle of the engagement surface unless you absolutely understand what you're doing.

After any trigger mods, you should cock the bolt (on an empty chamber of course- verified visually)- and slam the rifle butt into the ground forcefully a few times to be certain there is no possibility of a slamfire.

Trigger mods can be done by us garage gunsmiths, but you need to have a thorough understanding of the relationships of the parts and angles involved, know what you're trying to fix (take-up, creep) and how to modify it.