CVA Hawken Build Sheet?

baddarryl · January 5, 2015, 09:15 AM

Hi all. I have a CVA Hawken 50cal kit gun that sat in a basement for 10 years that an old girlfriend gave to me. It somehow ended up at my dads and he built and presented it to me a about 10 or more years ago. It is fully assembled, albeit looks a little rough, it cocks, but will not release as you pull the trigger. It will lower the hammer if I pull the trigger and pull the hammer rearward before letting down. Has never been fired.

When he gave it to me he said he lost a part that would need to be ordered. Neither one of us can remember what that was now. I would like to be able to take the action apart and see what it is, but really feel it would be good to have the original build sheet. Does anyone have a link to one? I would love to turn it into a functioning firearm. Thank you.

FrontierGander · January 5, 2015, 12:09 PM

sounds like the trigger is out of adjustment or the screw on the tumbler needs to be screws in more.

When you set the double triggers and pull the front trigger, does it just go click and not drop the hammer? If so, adjust the tumbler screw inside the LOCK to make it more sensitive.

http://www.deercreekproducts.net/upl...295/hawken.pdf

wogpotter · January 5, 2015, 12:13 PM

Is it a double set trigger?

baddarryl · January 5, 2015, 11:58 PM

Well I found the build sheet and parts list for it with a diagram of the break down. Whew! I am going to take apart and see what I can find. The trigger group doesn't look overly complicated.

As for the question, nothing happens when I pull the trigger. It clicks once then twice when cocking but that is all. The trigger make no movement when cocking either. There is normal spring tension on the hammer though. By the way, what is the point of the double set triggers?

Here it is:

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 12:47 AM

cock the hammer, there should be one click and then another which is full cock, Next pull back the REAR trigger which sets the front and makes it a hair trigger.

**4V50 Gary** · January 6, 2015, 01:23 AM

Frontier Gander is right. The double set trigger is designed to give you a hair trigger. He's also right in that it may need adjustment.

wogpotter · January 6, 2015, 08:36 AM

The rear trigger "sets" the front trigger to be very light.
This give you a choice of "hard" front trigger (like normal) or a very very light precision shot if you pull the rear to engage the feature.

You can test the trigger without cocking the hammer, even with the mechanism out of the stock.
Pull the rear trigger, it should have a distinct "click" when setting the front.
Now touch the front, it should "click" (fire) as you apply very light pressure.

If it doesn't do this there are 3 adjustments.

One inside the hammer mechanism to seat the hammer correctly.
One behind the triggers to set tension on the main spring.
One between the triggers to control let off weight.

Maybe one of them has fallen out? Its hard to tell what's "missing" from the pictures.

baddarryl · January 6, 2015, 09:06 AM

There is no movement in the rear trigger at anytime no matter what I do. It does cock properly with the 2 clicks though.

wogpotter · January 6, 2015, 11:20 AM

The TRIGGER cocks?
It should be the HAMMER that cocks.

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 11:55 AM

thats just out of adjustment then. Play around with the screws, its a pretty simple setup.

Pahoo · January 6, 2015, 01:51 PM

Whenever I suspect that there is functional disconnect between the set and the lock, I separate the two. Most times, I pull the lock and check it's operation. I make sure all the screws are tight, on the bridle and make sure the fly is working properly. I also check the contact point between the tumbler and sear. Take care not to let the hammer drop to far. With the lock pulled, you can not check the set operation.. .

Quote:

One behind the triggers to set tension on the main spring

The last problem I ran into, I found the problem with this adjustment. Did not take much to fix and once more, life it good. ...

Be Safe !!!

wogpotter · January 6, 2015, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Whenever I suspect that there is functional disconnect between the set and the lock, I separate the two.

This^^^^
Its way, way easier when you can see the problem instead of just feeling it.

Try this:
back off the rear screw till you JUST feel it go loose. now tighten 1/4 turn NO MORE.

What happens then?

baddarryl · January 6, 2015, 09:43 PM

I backed the screw off like you said. Now the set trigger can be set, but only with a lot of pressure after cocking the rifle. If I then pull the forward trigger it releases the set trigger forward but the hammer still does nothing.

In this condition the only way I can lower the hammer is to pull both triggers back a bit and lower it manually.

Also, should the trigger assembly just pull out if I take the guard and center screw out? It is not coming out.

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 09:48 PM

Remove the lock screws. The rear one often is to long and pushes against the hammer.

I will get a lock off my rifle and take a picture of the next screw you will have to adjust. hang on a few minutes, my internet sucks.

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 09:57 PM

The trigger group will drop out once you remove the Tang screw from the top of the stock area.

baddarryl · January 6, 2015, 09:59 PM

Ok got it out. Give me a sec and Ill put a pic up.

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 10:06 PM

This screw here is what needs to be adjusted. Its allowing the sear to grab onto the tumbler to much, creating a heavy trigger pull in which the set triggers can not set off due to how heavy it is. Screw it inward until its close to the edge. You'll know when you go to far as it will not catch.
[IMG]

[/IMG]

Red line indicates the area you will want to watch. Adjust it to much and the hammer simply will not stay cocked. No biggy, real easy once you see how the set up works.
[IMG]

[/IMG]

baddarryl · January 6, 2015, 10:13 PM

Should this be done in a cocked, non, or 1/2 cocked position?

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 10:16 PM

uncocked position

baddarryl · January 6, 2015, 10:19 PM

I have backed it all the way out counter clockwise until it let loose then just back in a hare. I can manually work the sear and all that this way, it won't even let the hammer move when all the way in. Is there a happy medium? It looks like all my parts are there as I can tell. Does the trigger assy look right?

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 10:25 PM

oh boy this rifle may give me a head ache LOL. Some times they just dont want to work easy for us.

If the lock works good outside of the stock and then binds up and doesnt drop when its in the stock, could have wood thats hitting the lock spring or tumbler, causing it to jam. Really hard to figure this over the net.

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 10:26 PM

just thought of something, With the lock installed into the stock, along with the trigger, go to full cock, set the triggers and then JERK back hard on the trigger and see if that causes the hammer to fall.

baddarryl · January 6, 2015, 10:32 PM

I adjusted that screw the way you said and it is working like it should now I think. Does it normally take a bit of pull to set the set trigger?

Also is it ok to dry fire these. I thought I saw where the manual said the hammer shouldn't rest on the nipple. Is that at all times or just with a cap?

Thank you so much for your help by the way! Time to go shopping for supple BP supplies!

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 10:34 PM

Trigger pull will depend on how much that screw is adjusted. Mine breaks at maybe 5 to 6 ounces. Try a half turn inward on that screw and see if that helps. Theres also more adjustment in the front trigger area.

WHEW!! Glad we got something going LOL, at least its starting to work. Just needs fine tuning.

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 10:39 PM

You shouldnt really dry fire it as it will damage the nipple, BUT, they are only $7 so if you want to play... Play! Its a simple replacement and probably should get replaced with a new one anyway.

Replacement nipple is the 6-1mm thread.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/I...1/HOT-SHOT-CVA

Nows the time to hit the lock with some lube as well. A dry lock can make it actually bind up and feel heavier in the trigger. Any gun oil will do for now.

January 5, 2015, 09:15 AM	#1
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	CVA Hawken Build Sheet? Hi all. I have a CVA Hawken 50cal kit gun that sat in a basement for 10 years that an old girlfriend gave to me. It somehow ended up at my dads and he built and presented it to me a about 10 or more years ago. It is fully assembled, albeit looks a little rough, it cocks, but will not release as you pull the trigger. It will lower the hammer if I pull the trigger and pull the hammer rearward before letting down. Has never been fired. When he gave it to me he said he lost a part that would need to be ordered. Neither one of us can remember what that was now. I would like to be able to take the action apart and see what it is, but really feel it would be good to have the original build sheet. Does anyone have a link to one? I would love to turn it into a functioning firearm. Thank you. Last edited by baddarryl; January 7, 2015 at 10:39 AM.

January 5, 2015, 12:09 PM	#2
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	sounds like the trigger is out of adjustment or the screw on the tumbler needs to be screws in more. When you set the double triggers and pull the front trigger, does it just go click and not drop the hammer? If so, adjust the tumbler screw inside the LOCK to make it more sensitive. http://www.deercreekproducts.net/upl...295/hawken.pdf __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 5, 2015, 12:13 PM	#3
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	Is it a double set trigger? __________________ Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

January 6, 2015, 12:47 AM	#5
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	cock the hammer, there should be one click and then another which is full cock, Next pull back the REAR trigger which sets the front and makes it a hair trigger. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 01:23 AM	#6
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,840	Frontier Gander is right. The double set trigger is designed to give you a hair trigger. He's also right in that it may need adjustment. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

January 5, 2015, 11:58 PM	#4
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	Well I found the build sheet and parts list for it with a diagram of the break down. Whew! I am going to take apart and see what I can find. The trigger group doesn't look overly complicated. As for the question, nothing happens when I pull the trigger. It clicks once then twice when cocking but that is all. The trigger make no movement when cocking either. There is normal spring tension on the hammer though. By the way, what is the point of the double set triggers? Here it is:

January 6, 2015, 08:36 AM	#7
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	The rear trigger "sets" the front trigger to be very light. This give you a choice of "hard" front trigger (like normal) or a very very light precision shot if you pull the rear to engage the feature. You can test the trigger without cocking the hammer, even with the mechanism out of the stock. Pull the rear trigger, it should have a distinct "click" when setting the front. Now touch the front, it should "click" (fire) as you apply very light pressure. If it doesn't do this there are 3 adjustments. One inside the hammer mechanism to seat the hammer correctly. One behind the triggers to set tension on the main spring. One between the triggers to control let off weight. Maybe one of them has fallen out? Its hard to tell what's "missing" from the pictures. __________________ Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

January 6, 2015, 09:06 AM	#8
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	There is no movement in the rear trigger at anytime no matter what I do. It does cock properly with the 2 clicks though.

January 6, 2015, 11:20 AM	#9
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	The TRIGGER cocks? It should be the HAMMER that cocks. __________________ Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

January 6, 2015, 11:55 AM	#10
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	thats just out of adjustment then. Play around with the screws, its a pretty simple setup. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 09:43 PM	#13
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	I backed the screw off like you said. Now the set trigger can be set, but only with a lot of pressure after cocking the rifle. If I then pull the forward trigger it releases the set trigger forward but the hammer still does nothing. In this condition the only way I can lower the hammer is to pull both triggers back a bit and lower it manually. Also, should the trigger assembly just pull out if I take the guard and center screw out? It is not coming out. Last edited by baddarryl; January 6, 2015 at 09:51 PM.

January 6, 2015, 09:48 PM	#14
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	Remove the lock screws. The rear one often is to long and pushes against the hammer. I will get a lock off my rifle and take a picture of the next screw you will have to adjust. hang on a few minutes, my internet sucks. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 09:57 PM	#15
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	The trigger group will drop out once you remove the Tang screw from the top of the stock area. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 09:59 PM	#16
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	Ok got it out. Give me a sec and Ill put a pic up. Last edited by baddarryl; January 6, 2015 at 10:10 PM.

January 6, 2015, 10:06 PM	#17
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	This screw here is what needs to be adjusted. Its allowing the sear to grab onto the tumbler to much, creating a heavy trigger pull in which the set triggers can not set off due to how heavy it is. Screw it inward until its close to the edge. You'll know when you go to far as it will not catch. [IMG][/IMG] Red line indicates the area you will want to watch. Adjust it to much and the hammer simply will not stay cocked. No biggy, real easy once you see how the set up works. [IMG][/IMG] __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 10:13 PM	#18
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	Should this be done in a cocked, non, or 1/2 cocked position?

January 6, 2015, 10:16 PM	#19
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	uncocked position __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 10:19 PM	#20
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	I have backed it all the way out counter clockwise until it let loose then just back in a hare. I can manually work the sear and all that this way, it won't even let the hammer move when all the way in. Is there a happy medium? It looks like all my parts are there as I can tell. Does the trigger assy look right?

January 6, 2015, 10:25 PM	#21
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	oh boy this rifle may give me a head ache LOL. Some times they just dont want to work easy for us. If the lock works good outside of the stock and then binds up and doesnt drop when its in the stock, could have wood thats hitting the lock spring or tumbler, causing it to jam. Really hard to figure this over the net. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 10:26 PM	#22
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	just thought of something, With the lock installed into the stock, along with the trigger, go to full cock, set the triggers and then JERK back hard on the trigger and see if that causes the hammer to fall. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 10:32 PM	#23
baddarryl Senior Member Join Date: March 29, 2011 Location: Cape Fear! Posts: 1,683	I adjusted that screw the way you said and it is working like it should now I think. Does it normally take a bit of pull to set the set trigger? Also is it ok to dry fire these. I thought I saw where the manual said the hammer shouldn't rest on the nipple. Is that at all times or just with a cap? Thank you so much for your help by the way! Time to go shopping for supple BP supplies!

January 6, 2015, 10:34 PM	#24
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	Trigger pull will depend on how much that screw is adjusted. Mine breaks at maybe 5 to 6 ounces. Try a half turn inward on that screw and see if that helps. Theres also more adjustment in the front trigger area. WHEW!! Glad we got something going LOL, at least its starting to work. Just needs fine tuning. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 10:39 PM	#25
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	You shouldnt really dry fire it as it will damage the nipple, BUT, they are only $7 so if you want to play... Play! Its a simple replacement and probably should get replaced with a new one anyway. Replacement nipple is the 6-1mm thread. http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/I...1/HOT-SHOT-CVA Nows the time to hit the lock with some lube as well. A dry lock can make it actually bind up and feel heavier in the trigger. Any gun oil will do for now. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/