Hawken #4 build

FrontierGander · January 1, 2015, 07:51 PM

Just some progress pictures. This one is a CVA Hawken .50cal with the heavy 1" barrel. Should be one heck of an accurate muzzy by the time it is finished. Not sure on the twist yet. I go to measure it and then forget how

You don't want to know how many hours it took me to fit the nose cap. I got a compliment on how good of a job I was doing and I was like, Yes, But I doubt the new owner will even notice. LOL

I've only hit it with 100 grit so far, but man is this pattern friggin awesome! That's what I love about Beech, it can have some really neat looking stuff in it.

Standard on all CVA rifles that I work on. Bedded tang,trigger plate and now, the forearm. I still have to bed my 58's forearm and see if I can squeeze out a little better accuracy.

FrontierGander · January 1, 2015, 07:52 PM

Captchee · January 1, 2015, 09:26 PM

yep , looks like a nice job on the nose cap . ever thought of doing one with the smaller nose cap ans an entry pipe . maybe a pewter St louis cap ?

FrontierGander · January 1, 2015, 09:35 PM

Exactly what I have planned. I bought a stock off ebay for experimenting on and when I get good, then I can transfer that over onto the real working rifles.

I actually have a maple CVA Frontier stock that came in a handful of days ago. I am thinking of adding a 32" deer creek .45cal barrel and make myself a cute little target plinker.

Captchee · January 1, 2015, 09:47 PM

i have put Ebony nose caps on them with entry pipes . they turn out real nice. kinda neat twist .
also i just finished re barreling a newer CVA mt rifle with a Colerian barrel for a customer . wasnt all that hard . little time consuming fitting an underlrib and recutting for the CVA underlugs . but she hooked right in , no issues

bedbugbilly · January 2, 2015, 12:02 PM

Great job! You could also pour a nose cap in conjunction with an entry pipe. Pouring one isn't hard and it takes a lot of work out of "fitting" one - easily shaped after poured. All kinds of alternatives to play with and that's what makes it all fun!

Looking forward to seeing the completed rifle - very nice work and it will be a dandy when you're finished! Good luck and have fun!

dahermit · January 2, 2015, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Great job! You could also pour a nose cap in conjunction with an entry pipe. Pouring one isn't hard and it takes a lot of work out of "fitting" one - easily shaped after poured. All kinds of alternatives to play with and that's what makes it all fun!

Bedbugbilly, how do you get brass hot enough to pour, unless you have a casting furnace with a blower? I was a metal shop teacher with such and I had to fire it for at least three hours to get brass hot enough to pour.

Hawg · January 2, 2015, 03:18 PM

It would have to be pewter to be poured in place. Brass would burn the wood. You could make a sand cast and pour a brass one.

FrontierGander · January 2, 2015, 06:14 PM

ooh man is she dark! I did 6 coats birchwood casey walnut last night and rubbed it down with boiled linseed oil, just slathered it on and let it sit before I wiped it off. Once that was drier this morning, Tru oil went on. I have 3 coats but the wood sucks it in so fast it still looks like BLO is on it LOL. When you put it on at first though, man that REALLY sets the color tones off. Once it starts taking, I'll get some pictures.

Captchee · January 2, 2015, 07:41 PM

Quote:

It would have to be pewter to be poured in place. Brass would burn the wood. You could make a sand cast and pour a brass one.

Yep . I do most all my own casting and can bring brass to 5lbs to liquid in about 30 minutes. But that’s not going to happen in a kiln . One needs a foundry of sorts . Mine uses propane. Wont quite get hot enough to do steel .
A very simple way to do sand casting vs. make a cope and drag , is to do whats called lost foam casing . In so many words , you make your part out of foam, then use spray adhesive to attach a foam spru ,pour sand around it, settle the sand , then pour the liquid brass to the spru . The foam will simply burn away as its replaced by the brass .
Problem is , you have to make a new mould each time where if you make a hard wood or other part , you can use it to make a sand mould , over and over again

FrontierGander · January 6, 2015, 10:32 PM

Sure Shot Mc Gee · January 7, 2015, 06:47 AM

I like the idea of a Devcon bedded tang.

Curious: Would it be beneficial to your rifles accuracy if its barrels channel was also bedded?

Been thinking about doing that process on my rifle for quite sometime now. (tang area) You know one of those easy jobs to accomplish you just never seem to get around to doing.

FrontierGander · January 7, 2015, 01:02 PM

yes I even did a small section of the barrel channel as there was a tiny about of side wiggle.

January 1, 2015, 07:51 PM	#1
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	Hawken #4 build Just some progress pictures. This one is a CVA Hawken .50cal with the heavy 1" barrel. Should be one heck of an accurate muzzy by the time it is finished. Not sure on the twist yet. I go to measure it and then forget how You don't want to know how many hours it took me to fit the nose cap. I got a compliment on how good of a job I was doing and I was like, Yes, But I doubt the new owner will even notice. LOL I've only hit it with 100 grit so far, but man is this pattern friggin awesome! That's what I love about Beech, it can have some really neat looking stuff in it. Standard on all CVA rifles that I work on. Bedded tang,trigger plate and now, the forearm. I still have to bed my 58's forearm and see if I can squeeze out a little better accuracy. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 1, 2015, 07:52 PM	#2
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	__________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 2, 2015, 12:02 PM	#6
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,287	Great job! You could also pour a nose cap in conjunction with an entry pipe. Pouring one isn't hard and it takes a lot of work out of "fitting" one - easily shaped after poured. All kinds of alternatives to play with and that's what makes it all fun! Looking forward to seeing the completed rifle - very nice work and it will be a dandy when you're finished! Good luck and have fun! __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

January 2, 2015, 06:14 PM	#9
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	ooh man is she dark! I did 6 coats birchwood casey walnut last night and rubbed it down with boiled linseed oil, just slathered it on and let it sit before I wiped it off. Once that was drier this morning, Tru oil went on. I have 3 coats but the wood sucks it in so fast it still looks like BLO is on it LOL. When you put it on at first though, man that REALLY sets the color tones off. Once it starts taking, I'll get some pictures. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 6, 2015, 10:32 PM	#11
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	__________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 1, 2015, 09:26 PM	#3
Captchee Senior Member Join Date: April 2, 2013 Posts: 439	yep , looks like a nice job on the nose cap . ever thought of doing one with the smaller nose cap ans an entry pipe . maybe a pewter St louis cap ?

January 1, 2015, 09:35 PM	#4
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	Exactly what I have planned. I bought a stock off ebay for experimenting on and when I get good, then I can transfer that over onto the real working rifles. I actually have a maple CVA Frontier stock that came in a handful of days ago. I am thinking of adding a 32" deer creek .45cal barrel and make myself a cute little target plinker. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/

January 1, 2015, 09:47 PM	#5
Captchee Senior Member Join Date: April 2, 2013 Posts: 439	i have put Ebony nose caps on them with entry pipes . they turn out real nice. kinda neat twist . also i just finished re barreling a newer CVA mt rifle with a Colerian barrel for a customer . wasnt all that hard . little time consuming fitting an underlrib and recutting for the CVA underlugs . but she hooked right in , no issues

January 2, 2015, 03:18 PM	#8
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,190	It would have to be pewter to be poured in place. Brass would burn the wood. You could make a sand cast and pour a brass one.

January 7, 2015, 06:47 AM	#12
Sure Shot Mc Gee Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 3,876	I like the idea of a Devcon bedded tang. Curious: Would it be beneficial to your rifles accuracy if its barrels channel was also bedded? Been thinking about doing that process on my rifle for quite sometime now. (tang area) You know one of those easy jobs to accomplish you just never seem to get around to doing.

January 7, 2015, 01:02 PM	#13
FrontierGander Senior Member Join Date: January 30, 2009 Location: Boncarbo,Colorado Posts: 651	yes I even did a small section of the barrel channel as there was a tiny about of side wiggle. __________________ https://buckskinsbp.blogspot.com/