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Old May 7, 2013, 04:49 PM   #26
Hawg
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Some of the Colt repros have tapered chambers. Tapered smaller at the nipple end.
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Old May 7, 2013, 08:31 PM   #27
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I can see where some repros have tapered chambers with the smaller part being toward the nipple and the larger part near the mouth. That makes sense if the reamers get worn from usage.

However, to have it in reverse in a non-bore through cylinder could be done with a boring bar instead of a reamer. Heck, you can do it with EDM too. Why though continues to escape me.
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Old May 9, 2013, 07:11 PM   #28
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Weird

I just bought a new Uberti 1851 Navy with 5 inch barrel. I took it to the range today. I was also trying some Traditions .375 diameter balls for the first time.

On two of the chambers there was little or no lead shaved and when I retracted the ram the ball came out easily and was stuck to the ram ( see pic)

Really appears that inside the chamber is larger than the mouth. While I don't think this is possible it sure felt that way. Slight resistance inserting the ball then no resistance until it seated on the powder.

I'm sure these balls run a bit undersize since I tried them in my Pietta 51 and got much less lead shaved than with the Hornady and Speer .375's I've used before.

Anyone know where I can get .377 or .378 balls?
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Old May 9, 2013, 07:30 PM   #29
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If the .375's are too small get .380's.
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Old May 9, 2013, 10:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawg
If the .375's are too small get .380's.
Log Cabin Sport Shop : http://www.logcabinonline.com/index1.html is where I get mine.
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Old May 10, 2013, 07:40 AM   #31
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Thanks Hawg and Fingers!
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Old May 11, 2013, 10:42 AM   #32
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chamber mouth chamfer

If the chamfer tool was getting dull and in need of being resharpened when the chamber mouths were chamfered it could raise a ring or burr inside the chamber mouths. Removing them should cure the problem, assuming the balls are large enough. A machinist with access to a Sunnen hone could do it easily. I don't claim any expertise on this subject, but all my percussion revolvers have chambers of uniform diameter,front to rear. I have honed or reamed some of them to make the chamber diameter 0.001-0.002" over groove diameter and all the same size because I think they should shoot more accurately that way. Just my opinion. L. O. G.

Last edited by logeorge; May 11, 2013 at 10:54 AM.
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Old May 11, 2013, 12:56 PM   #33
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Doc

Here is a link to a set of small bore gauges on eBay they are also available from Amazon and Enco. This should be a must have for anyone who loads or reloads. Measure from 1/8 to a little over 1/2. You just insert the gauge into the hole and open it until you feel a light drag then remove and measure over it with a micrometer. With a little practice you can get accurate readings in the tenths of a thousandth.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pc-FULL-BA...item5642fcb97b
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Old May 26, 2013, 11:06 PM   #34
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Well, since I stirred up a hornet's nest I figure I should follow-up as to what has occurred. I got some larger balls but had the same experience with a ring shearing off the ball when I loaded each chamber but the ball slipping back and forth in the chamber and jamming up the gun. So I camphered each chamber mouth by maybe .003-.004 and tried the balls again. Now they sheared like they are supposed to, but are firmly seated in the chamber and do not slide in and out.

I appreciate everyone's input and the discussions. I also do not really understand why the little gun was the way it was. Just know what finally fixed the problem. No matter what my calipers may or may not have truly indicated.

~Craig
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Old May 27, 2013, 04:25 AM   #35
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Denster...

Sorry, Shipmate,

I just saw your point to the bore gauges.

Just bought a set.
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