"crimped" Primers

renaissance7697 · March 26, 2001, 11:16 AM

After I shoot at my indoor range (9mm &.45acp), I generally just "Sweep UP" > "close" around me and take ALL the brass home to check and sort for reloading.
I often pick up brass other than my own.
I have learned to avoid "Military Brass" because of the "crimping" of primers which often causes me more problems than it is worth.

It was my understanding that only Military brass had "crimped primers".

In order to sort it out, I have been depending on checking the headstamps for a "Two Digit Number" which I understand to be the year of Mfg which is present on "all ?" Military brass (both 45 and 9mm), but NOT on Commercial brass.

ie > No "Number" > = Commercial = No crimped primers.

Also; that if stamped "Luger" instead of just "9mm" > it was again; Non Military = Commercial = No crimp

Recently I started having problems seating fresh primers while reloading in 9mm.
I finally figured out that the problem was happening with brass headstamped >> " FC NT 9mm Luger "

Is anyone familiar with this headstamp?
Does ammo with this headstamp come with "crimped" primers?

I am not sure what a "crimped primer" looks like.

I have e-mailed Federal but have not received a response yet.

dick w. holliday · March 26, 2001, 01:22 PM

Haven't run across that headstamp yet but as much brass as i scrounge i'm sure i'll find one sooner or later..As far as the crimped primer you should be able to look at the edge of the primer pocket and if it is crimped it should have a really sharp edge around the outside edge of the pocket that should be pretty evident that it would he hard to push a primer by it. i think i've tried every method known to get it out and i keep going back to my RCBS swaging tool. i think the dillon works on the same principle as the RCBS but it costs more. a deburring works in a pinch but i think it leaves a little burr or edge down in the primer pocket where it cuts the crimp out and i personally don't like that as well as swaged....Dick

Poodleshooter · March 26, 2001, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Recently I started having problems seating fresh primers while reloading in 9mm.
I finally figured out that the problem was happening with brass headstamped >> " FC NT 9mm Luger "

I'm gonna guess- Federal Cartridge Non-Toxic 9mm Luger. Maybe a Nyclad round??? Pretty sure about the Federal Cartridge part though.

Paul B. · March 26, 2001, 03:20 PM

I have noticed that much, if not all generic ammo in 9MM (actually all military calibers)have crimped in primers. I use a battery operated Dremel tool with a 1/8 inch burring bit and Bzzzzzt, one quick shot, (no pun intended and the primer pocket is good to go.
Paul B.

SharpCdn · March 26, 2001, 07:12 PM

I'm not sure, but I think the federal NT (non-toxic indoor shooting) primers (or flashholes) are slightly different than regular primers (or flashholes), and they may crimp them to discourage them from being reloaded, or to prevent them from poping out from different pressures with these non-toxic load combinations.

Just my guess.

I noticed this brass myself when scrounging at my range. They looked 'different' around the primer so I discarded them, not wanting to take any chances (there was plenty of normal brass around).

My $1.00 cdn / .02 cents USD.

Cheapo · March 27, 2001, 02:16 PM

U.S. military primer crimps are generally a depressed ring around the primer. They WHACK the brass with a circular/ring hammergizmo and the brass "mushrooms" inward into what used to be the cylindrical primer pocket. Holds the primer in to prevent nasty slam-fires in full auto (and even semiauto) firearms.

Crimped primers are NOT limited to military stuff.

Some foreign (to us U.S. types) ammo uses a three- or even four-point "stab" crimp around the primer. Looks like those hash marks on a wristwatch that are supposed to mean 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock--they are evenly spaced like a Mercedes logo on the three-point stabs. The stab marks don't extend onto the primer cup, IMObservations.

IME, many of the 9mm primer crimps are so slight, decapping removes half of it and you wind up with only a snugger fit when seating the new primer. It sometimes amounts to no more than a really sharp corner between the pocket and the casehead. Any misalignment of the case in your priming station (or Lee hand tool) can result in a squished primer.

The easiest brass to prime IME has been Remington. They put a generous radius at the opening to the primer pocket. Especially easy to prime in .357 Mag.

March 26, 2001, 11:16 AM	#1
renaissance7697 Senior Member Join Date: January 14, 2001 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 203	After I shoot at my indoor range (9mm &.45acp), I generally just "Sweep UP" > "close" around me and take ALL the brass home to check and sort for reloading. I often pick up brass other than my own. I have learned to avoid "Military Brass" because of the "crimping" of primers which often causes me more problems than it is worth. It was my understanding that only Military brass had "crimped primers". In order to sort it out, I have been depending on checking the headstamps for a "Two Digit Number" which I understand to be the year of Mfg which is present on "all ?" Military brass (both 45 and 9mm), but NOT on Commercial brass. ie > No "Number" > = Commercial = No crimped primers. Also; that if stamped "Luger" instead of just "9mm" > it was again; Non Military = Commercial = No crimp Recently I started having problems seating fresh primers while reloading in 9mm. I finally figured out that the problem was happening with brass headstamped >> " FC NT 9mm Luger " Is anyone familiar with this headstamp? Does ammo with this headstamp come with "crimped" primers? I am not sure what a "crimped primer" looks like. I have e-mailed Federal but have not received a response yet.

March 26, 2001, 01:22 PM	#2
dick w. holliday Senior Member Join Date: January 13, 2001 Location: NC Posts: 589	Haven't run across that headstamp yet but as much brass as i scrounge i'm sure i'll find one sooner or later..As far as the crimped primer you should be able to look at the edge of the primer pocket and if it is crimped it should have a really sharp edge around the outside edge of the pocket that should be pretty evident that it would he hard to push a primer by it. i think i've tried every method known to get it out and i keep going back to my RCBS swaging tool. i think the dillon works on the same principle as the RCBS but it costs more. a deburring works in a pinch but i think it leaves a little burr or edge down in the primer pocket where it cuts the crimp out and i personally don't like that as well as swaged....Dick

March 26, 2001, 03:20 PM	#4
Paul B. Senior Member Join Date: March 28, 1999 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 3,802	I have noticed that much, if not all generic ammo in 9MM (actually all military calibers)have crimped in primers. I use a battery operated Dremel tool with a 1/8 inch burring bit and Bzzzzzt, one quick shot, (no pun intended and the primer pocket is good to go. Paul B.

March 26, 2001, 07:12 PM	#5
SharpCdn Member Join Date: July 29, 1999 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 72	I'm not sure, but I think the federal NT (non-toxic indoor shooting) primers (or flashholes) are slightly different than regular primers (or flashholes), and they may crimp them to discourage them from being reloaded, or to prevent them from poping out from different pressures with these non-toxic load combinations. Just my guess. I noticed this brass myself when scrounging at my range. They looked 'different' around the primer so I discarded them, not wanting to take any chances (there was plenty of normal brass around). My $1.00 cdn / .02 cents USD.

March 27, 2001, 02:16 PM	#6
Cheapo Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 1998 Posts: 986	U.S. military primer crimps are generally a depressed ring around the primer. They WHACK the brass with a circular/ring hammergizmo and the brass "mushrooms" inward into what used to be the cylindrical primer pocket. Holds the primer in to prevent nasty slam-fires in full auto (and even semiauto) firearms. Crimped primers are NOT limited to military stuff. Some foreign (to us U.S. types) ammo uses a three- or even four-point "stab" crimp around the primer. Looks like those hash marks on a wristwatch that are supposed to mean 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock--they are evenly spaced like a Mercedes logo on the three-point stabs. The stab marks don't extend onto the primer cup, IMObservations. IME, many of the 9mm primer crimps are so slight, decapping removes half of it and you wind up with only a snugger fit when seating the new primer. It sometimes amounts to no more than a really sharp corner between the pocket and the casehead. Any misalignment of the case in your priming station (or Lee hand tool) can result in a squished primer. The easiest brass to prime IME has been Remington. They put a generous radius at the opening to the primer pocket. Especially easy to prime in .357 Mag.