The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > Handloading, Reloading, and Bullet Casting

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old August 31, 2014, 11:37 PM   #1
td3201
Junior Member
 
Join Date: August 31, 2014
Posts: 7
Rust on hornady reloader

Hi all,

First post here. I pulled out my reloader to set up at my new house. Haven't touched it in years. It has quite a bit of rust on the unpainted parts. I ran few rounds though it and it appears to be in working order. Should I be concerned? Any way to improve its condition?

Thanks!
td3201 is offline  
Old September 1, 2014, 02:08 AM   #2
Brotherbadger
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 10, 2010
Posts: 1,149
What are the unpainted parts are you talking about? Are they stationary or moving parts? Can you give us pictures? Is it active rust or patina? The best way to improve the condition(assuming it is active rust) would be to gently sand off the rust and keep it well oiled, but again that depends on where exactly the rust is.
__________________
Once Fired Brass, Top quality, Fast shipping, Best prices.

http://300AacBrass.com/ -10% Coupon use code " badger "
Brotherbadger is offline  
Old September 1, 2014, 08:28 AM   #3
Jim243
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 5, 2009
Location: Just off Route 66
Posts: 5,067
Shouldn't make any difference as to your reloads. A polishing wheel on a dremel and some Flitz polish should take out the rust spots re-paint if necessary and a bath of oil, 3 in 1 oil should do the trick. Then a liberal dose of Rem oil, let it sit to soak in then wipe down.

Cast iron presses are built tough.

Jim

Welcome to The Firing Line by the way.
__________________
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Jim243 is offline  
Old September 1, 2014, 09:36 AM   #4
tobnpr
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 1, 2010
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 4,556
^^

As mentioned, depends on where it is. If it's on the ram/piston, that's an issue. It will destroy the seals. If it's just surface rust, buff it off with steel wool or a brush wheel on a dremel. Be sure to grease the zerk(s) on the ram if there are any.
__________________
Remington 700/Savage Rebarreling /Action Blueprinting
07 FFL /Mosin-Nagant Custom Shop/Bent Bolts
Genuine Cerakote Applicator
www.biggorillagunworks.com
tobnpr is offline  
Old September 1, 2014, 10:44 AM   #5
wogpotter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2004
Posts: 4,811
Here is what I've done with rusted press parts. However it will depend on the position & degree of rusting id its worth the effort.

Strip parts down (vital for next stage).
Degrease with alcohol or something similar.
Immerse in a non-etching rust remover such as "Evap-O-Rust" until all rust is remover (couple of hours or overnight if really heavy).

Rinse & dry.

Examine for pitting, if none oil heavily to allow oil to coat. (Heating oiled metal with a hair dryer helps).

Reassemble & test.
__________________
Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”?

Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”
wogpotter is offline  
Old September 1, 2014, 11:20 AM   #6
mikld
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 7, 2009
Location: Southern Oregon!
Posts: 2,891
Rust on a ram will act like sandpaper running through the bearing surfaces of the press frame (I ain't never seen a seal on a single stage press?). Disassemble the press and remove the rust. There are several ways; crocus cloth with light oil, wire brush, polish, and there are some commercial preparations that will remove rust (Rust Away and Evaporust come to mind). If the cleaned area is a moving part, oil it. If the part is just an unpainted part, paste wax works pretty well at preserving bare metal.
__________________
My Anchor is holding fast!
I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...
mikld is offline  
Old September 2, 2014, 09:39 PM   #7
td3201
Junior Member
 
Join Date: August 31, 2014
Posts: 7
Thank you everyone for your replies. I am pretty embarrassed that I let it get like this and appreciate everyone's help. The pictures represent all of the rusty parts on the press itself. Like a total idiot, I left the dies in it and they are pretty rusty as well. I'm a beginner and recently pulled this press out of storage (5 years) to pick the hobby up again.+
Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo 1.JPG (115.4 KB, 108 views)
File Type: jpg photo 2.JPG (88.0 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg photo 3.JPG (113.6 KB, 92 views)

Last edited by td3201; September 2, 2014 at 09:46 PM.
td3201 is offline  
Old September 3, 2014, 05:28 AM   #8
Tony Z
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 29, 2013
Location: North Central Pennsyltucky
Posts: 749
If it were me, I would just take some 0000 steel wool with WD40 and rub it lightly. You may want to disassemble a bit to make sure it is not worse in the hidden areas. If so, then I would go with the Evapo-Pust suggestion posted yesterday - I've used this extensively and it works very well. You can buy it in any of the many auto parts stores popping up all over, such as Advanced Auto.

(One of my other hobbies/pursuits is accumulating vintage tools. Ones with value, I don't touch, but there are many that I have that need "heavy" patina cleaned/removed. One trick that works on bare steel is to take aluminum foil (clumped in a ball) and polish the steel with "Autosol" or "Flitz". Does a great job of bringing back factory appearance, provided rust is just superficial. Otherwise, drop back to the previous suggestions. One thing you never want to try, is Naval Jelly, as it will leave a horrible surface appearance.

Finally, if you're in a damp environment (besides taking precautions with primer, powder, etc.), you may want to consider disassembling and applying a cold blue to rust prone areas.
Tony Z is offline  
Old September 3, 2014, 08:21 AM   #9
rogn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 25, 2005
Posts: 203
Do not use sandpaper as it can leave particles imbedded in the ram or other moving parts, same as operating with rust on those parts. Also, can't recommend using WD40 except as a cleaning solution, clean it off carefully when done derusting and use a good oil like FP10, EWL or another high quality lubricant as a final lube. The powder measure must be lubed to prevent rust abrasion, then disassembled, cleaned with fine steel wool/oil, then degreased, then dry lubed with graphite or mica, reassembled and some of the same dry lubed passed thru by "measuring" a small amount thru it. The equipment does not seem functionally damaged, just clean thoroughly, degrease and relube with a good lube. Many people are using synthetics like Mobil 1 or Amsoil. If you want to kill 2 rocks with the same bird use a good two cycle oil like the Amsoil synthetic, not only is it a superlative lube but it has corrosion preventatives also( all marine 2 cycle oils do)
rogn is offline  
Old September 3, 2014, 09:53 PM   #10
td3201
Junior Member
 
Join Date: August 31, 2014
Posts: 7
The evapo-rust is cheap enough that I'm going to give that a try. I'll report back with how it works. Thanks everyone!
td3201 is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 07:55 AM   #11
wogpotter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2004
Posts: 4,811
It'll eat the rust, no problem. I just removed 60+years of rust from a stock bolt last night with the stuff!
__________________
Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”?

Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”
wogpotter is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 08:15 AM   #12
td3201
Junior Member
 
Join Date: August 31, 2014
Posts: 7
Since I am heading to an auto parts store to get the evapo-rust, know of any oil they'd have that would work best as a lube after I clean it?
td3201 is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 11:20 AM   #13
wogpotter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2004
Posts: 4,811
Mobil-1
__________________
Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”?

Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”
wogpotter is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 11:26 AM   #14
schmellba99
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 8, 2008
Posts: 803
Disassemble the rotor (easy to do) and buff the rust off with some jeweler's rouge and a soft cloth.

The shell plate anvil would be better off to soak in a rust eater (Evapo-Rust or the like) until the rust is gone, then give a light coat of rust preventative (Remoil or something similar works fine). As long as you have it in a conditioned environment after you've cleaned it, there should be little issue with rust again.

It's just surface rust on both, no major issue. Easy to take care of without major problems.
schmellba99 is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 01:53 PM   #15
mikld
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 7, 2009
Location: Southern Oregon!
Posts: 2,891
The pics show surface rust, not too bad. Easily removed with steel wool and a solvent/light oil (WD40, mineral spirits, bore cleaner, etc.) but it's best disassembled first...
__________________
My Anchor is holding fast!
I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...
mikld is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 03:47 PM   #16
td3201
Junior Member
 
Join Date: August 31, 2014
Posts: 7
I stripped it all down and let it soak in evapo-rust, rinsed and dried. Worked like a charm. I have some oneshot case lube. Will that be sufficient for lubricating all of it to prevent rust in the future or should I use some of the oil suggested in here? What I'm confused about if I use oil is which parts to oil up (thinking about powder issues) so would naturyally avoid the powder drop mechanism. Any other thoughts?

Thanks again!
td3201 is offline  
Old September 4, 2014, 03:48 PM   #17
wogpotter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 27, 2004
Posts: 4,811
That looks like an easy win for evap-o-rust. It won't even need overnight.
Hot water rinse oil & GTG is my guess.
__________________
Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”?

Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”
wogpotter is offline  
Old September 5, 2014, 11:02 AM   #18
schmellba99
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 8, 2008
Posts: 803
DO NOT use any oil on the powder drop rotor. Only a dry lube (graphite, One Shot, moly, etc.) on that rotor.

Several months ago I had a complete lack of thought and sprayed some Remoil on the rotor on my powder drop (same one). I then proceeded to discover that my powder throws were way, way, way off. And then it stopped throwing all together.

That's because the oil gummed up the powder in the drop tube. Was a PITA to stop everything, disassemble the rotor, tube, etc., clean, degrease and dry lube.

Lesson learned on my end.
schmellba99 is offline  
Old September 5, 2014, 11:09 AM   #19
td3201
Junior Member
 
Join Date: August 31, 2014
Posts: 7
I ended up spraying all of the parts with OneShot. The powder still seems to stick to the powder drop. It doesn't seem to be affecting the loads.
td3201 is offline  
Old September 5, 2014, 04:05 PM   #20
schmellba99
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 8, 2008
Posts: 803
Take a dryer sheet and rub the powder drop down with it. Usually what happens is you get some static buildup and it causes some powder to stick to the clear tube and the rotor. The dryer sheet discharges that static electricity.

I generally keep one or two handy when I'm running the press for that very reason. Flake and ball powders are the worst for this, but even stick powder can have this happen on occasion as well.
schmellba99 is offline  
Old September 5, 2014, 07:29 PM   #21
jepp2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 24, 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 1,476
For your powder rotor it would be a great candidate for Renaissance Wax or something similar. It rusted once, now you have bare metal after cleaning and it will rust even faster. The wax will not attract powder, it will make operation smoother and it will give it a protective coat to prevent future rust. Buff the polish well after applying.
__________________
NRA Benefactor Life member
jepp2 is offline  
Old September 6, 2014, 03:48 PM   #22
condor bravo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 23, 2014
Location: Nevada/Ariz/CA
Posts: 1,753
If you have heavy duty rust go to a hardware store and get Naval Jelly rust disolver, rust's worst enemy. This is a thick pink jel. Apply with a brush, scrub as necessary with brush. Let sit for a while, rinse with water, repeat as necessary and dry. I've had to use that with a few die sets; works better than great.
condor bravo is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2021 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Page generated in 0.08113 seconds with 11 queries