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Old March 21, 2009, 10:51 PM   #1
ar15man2009
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using lead bullets in glock

do any of you bullet caster out there cast bullets to shoot out foa glock.i am about to buy a glock 22 and dont know if it will be good to use lead bullets in it. the jacketed stuff is just so exensive though. will it make my accuracy be worse in my glock and will it wear on the barrel if i shoot them out of it or something.just looking mainly for plinking.thanks
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Old March 21, 2009, 10:54 PM   #2
That'll Do
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I'm not a Glock owner, but what I've heard is that you should not shoot lead out of a factory barrel because of the polygonal rifling.

If you purchase a barrel from Lone Wolf or Barsto, you can shoot lead until your heart is content.

And if you don't want to buy jacketed bullets, you could look into plated bullets–they cost more than lead but less than FMJ.
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Old March 22, 2009, 04:35 AM   #3
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lead

Here's an excerpt from a review of "The Glock in Competition" that appeared in Dillon's "Blue Press" back in 2006:
Quote:
As far as I’m concerned, the chapter on Glock
blowups alone is worth the price of the book.
Blowups, also known as Kabooms, KB malfunctions,
etc., are analyzed in a
methodical, easy-to-comprehend
way. The short
answer is: Don’t double
charge, beware of out-ofbattery
firing and the resultant
need to use correctly
dimensioned ammunition,
and NEVER NEVER NEVER
use lead bullets in a factory
Glock barrel.
Mark Passamanck goes to
great detail into the design
of Glock polygonal rifling. A
design meant to optimize
accuracy with jacketed bullets;
the polygonal rifling
swages the bullet into essentially
an octagon shape.
Copper withstands this
swaging quite well, so that
even jacketed bullets with
inconsistencies perform very
well. However, lead tends to
tear away and is left as
deposits in the barrel; therefore,
firing as few as five
rounds of lead ammunition
will cause significant pressure
increases in polygonalrifled
barrels. Mark
describes a Glock 19 barrel that KB’d after firing
approximately 1500 rounds of commercial lead
ammo. Because of excessive lead residue, the bore
diameter at the front of the chamber was .323,”
causing pressures of more than 60,000 PSI. The
end result was a cracked frame and a split barrel.

Pete
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Old March 22, 2009, 06:03 AM   #4
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For what its worth, I bought a Glock 17 back in 1990 or so when they were fairly new to the market. I reloaded then and had never heard of an issue with lead. I fired thousands of lead slugs through it and never had a problem although I cleaned after each use. I now use the cheap Remington jacketed bullets and they are quite a bit more accurate. I believe the KB's are with the 40's.
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Old March 22, 2009, 08:55 AM   #5
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I don't shoot lead, primarly because I just don't like handling lead. I have started using Precision Bullets' coated bullets. I'm shooting them through a G17 with factory barrel, with excellent results.

I wouldn't reload for a .40 Glock, period. However, if I did load lead for Glocks, I'd stick to lower-velocity rounds, such as the .45ACP. I'd also do some judicious cleaning after ever coupla-hundred rounds.
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Old March 22, 2009, 10:38 AM   #6
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You may find the threads below interesting ...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=33855

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=48775
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Old March 22, 2009, 10:42 AM   #7
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STAY TUNED! I'm sick and tired of HEARING the hogwash about no lead in factory glock barrels. Also as a kind of SHTF readiness, I just bought a 6 cav lee mold for a 175 grain lead boolit. I cast 3-400 yesterday, they're "drying" the lee liquid allox right now. later today, I will load some using whatever load I can come up with for WW 231. It WON'T be a wimp load, I'll test for accuracy and velocity. I'm going to keep a critical eye on lead build-up inside the barrel. My glock M-22 is at least 10 Y.O. and has thousands of jacketed and plated bullets through it. All were the dreaded HANDLOADS!

I'm going to do a hardness test using the lee tester. As just cast, they will harden slightly as they age. BRB! 12.5 BHN! That's fine for this application. If they lead too much, I'll cast them from a harder alloy.

It's all about doing hard cast boolits for glocks. AND most importantly keeping an eye open for leading as it occurs, or doesn't occur. Then being darn careful with regular cleaning.

They will be shot unsized,(they're running .402-.403). IF they can be loaded that big and still pass my cartridge case gauge. Otherwise, I'll get a lee sizer for .400.
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Old March 22, 2009, 11:22 AM   #8
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I have a 1st Gen Glock G21(No finger grooves) and i shoot it every week. I shoot it in 3 gun competition and sometimes IPSC all with lead bullets. I would say it has at least 100,000 rounds through it. I put a Storm Lake Barrel in it about 2 years ago to get a little better accuracy. It is a little more accurate in that I seem to be hitting the a Zone more or it could be that I shoot the darn thing so much. In all this time i have never replaced a part due to wear. I load my bullets, a 200gr TCN to just make Major Power factor so its not loaded hot but it is not a plinking load. When i had the OEM Barrel in the gun I never had a problem with leading, any more so than with my revolvers.

When i changed the barrel out(Due in part to all the horror stories of blow ups) I looked at the case head support and compared it to; 1911 barrel, Factory barrel and the Storm Lake Barrel, There is not that much difference but I am not a machinist. The Difference between the SL barrel and the OEM Glock barrel is very small. The Colt Barrel is a "little" more supported but not all that much.

I am not sure what people are doing to blow up their Glocks but whatever it is it has not happened to me and all I shoot are handloads.
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Old March 22, 2009, 02:11 PM   #9
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IF you want to shoot Lead bullets in a Glock..REPLACE the factory barrel.

Glock factory barrels HAVE an issue in that they are NOT heat treated..as are every other pistol barrel made in the world. Gaston Glock is smarter that the rest of the firearms industry.

Glock will not stand behind the barrels except in a few law enforcement cases and there have been hundreds of KB's and law suits against Glock.

New Mexico State Police blew up 3 Glock 357sigs in one morning with factory ammo on their range. They carry SIG's now...KB problem gone.

You can purchase a REAL barrel from Lone Wolf for about $ 100....thats cheaper than your insurance deductable from the ER when the Glock KB's and gets frag in your eyes or fingers.

Shooting ANY reloaded ammo in a Glock VOIDS the factory warranty...what part of VOIDS do you not understand ?

Be proactive...IF you love the Glock..make it safe and replace the barrel.
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Old March 22, 2009, 02:14 PM   #10
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Atta Boy Snuffy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm also tired of respoonding to this urban myth. Read my post #30
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...=309351&page=2

And for those whoo replace stock Glock barrels, you have BIG TIME voided you warrantee. If a factory double charge (and many are documented) hits your weapon, Glock wont touch it and you will be in a long and costly law suit with an ammo manufacturer to get it fixed.
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Old March 22, 2009, 03:11 PM   #11
roy reali
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Geographic Warning

If you plan to shoot a Glock with lead bullets please be aware of your location. You want to be at least two hundred miles from the San Andreas Fault. Otherwise you'll cause a chain of cataclysmic events that will result in half of California falling in the Pacific Ocean.
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Old March 22, 2009, 03:34 PM   #12
snuffy
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Quote:
IF you want to shoot Lead bullets in a Glock..REPLACE the factory barrel.

Glock factory barrels HAVE an issue in that they are NOT heat treated..as are every other pistol barrel made in the world. Gaston Glock is smarter that the rest of the firearms industry.

Glock will not stand behind the barrels except in a few law enforcement cases and there have been hundreds of KB's and law suits against Glock.

New Mexico State Police blew up 3 Glock 357sigs in one morning with factory ammo on their range. They carry SIG's now...KB problem gone.

You can purchase a REAL barrel from Lone Wolf for about $ 100....thats cheaper than your insurance deductable from the ER when the Glock KB's and gets frag in your eyes or fingers.

Shooting ANY reloaded ammo in a Glock VOIDS the factory warranty...what part of VOIDS do you not understand ?

Be proactive...IF you love the Glock..make it safe and replace the barrel.
I've never seen such a big load of hogwash in one post before. Glock barrels not heat treated? What are you smoking?

Quote:
and gets frag in your eyes or fingers.
If you're fool enough to shoot WITHOUT eye protection, then you deserve fragments in your eyes. Any gun can be blown up by careless handloads, or factory mistakes.

Thanks Shoney, I just gotta find out for myself. Just finished the test load workup. Lyman says their 175 lead #2 boolit should be loaded with from 4.3 to 5.8 grains of w 231. So I started at 4.8, then went 5.0, 5.4 and finally 5.7. Shells fit snugly in the case gauge, they should function fine. Now to the range tomorrow!
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Old March 22, 2009, 03:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Roy Reali:
If you plan to shoot a Glock with lead bullets please be aware of your location. You want to be at least two hundred miles from the San Andreas Fault. Otherwise you'll cause a chain of cataclysmic events that will result in half of California falling in the Pacific Ocean.
I don't really see that as being that big of a deal . . . .
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Old March 22, 2009, 03:40 PM   #14
snuffy
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Quote:
roy reali
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Geographic Warning
If you plan to shoot a Glock with lead bullets please be aware of your location. You want to be at least two hundred miles from the San Andreas Fault. Otherwise you'll cause a chain of cataclysmic events that will result in half of California falling in the Pacific Ocean.
Now that right there is funny, I don't ceer who ya are! Get er done!

Quote:
I don't really see that as being that big of a deal . . . .
Yeah, especially if you have some property in western Nevada!
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Old March 22, 2009, 03:47 PM   #15
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Lead Bullets in Glocks

I ran lead bullets (outdoors) for 4 years in IPSC. The first time it was Chrono'd the 230GR Lead came out at 210PF, way more than I needed. My issues in the mid 90's were chipped extractors. I now have an Aftermarket barrel in my G21 and my new G35. I want fully supported chamber in the 40 S&W as it is a high pressure round. The 45ACP is not, more especially since I load it to 170PF. You should crono your loads to know what is going on inside.
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Old March 22, 2009, 05:14 PM   #16
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Whoops

I ran lead bullets (outdoors) for 4 years in IPSC. The first time it was Chrono'd the 230GR Lead came out at 210PF, way more than I needed. My issues in the mid 90's were chipped extractors. I now have an Aftermarket barrel in my G21 and my new G35. I want fully supported chamber in the 40 S&W as it is a high pressure round. The 45ACP is not, more especially since I load it to 170PF. You should crono your loads to know what is going on inside.
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Old March 22, 2009, 09:11 PM   #17
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PF=power factor. PF = bullet weight x fps / 1000.
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Old March 22, 2009, 10:07 PM   #18
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Oh my goodness, is this junk still running rampant? Is the bogeyman still behind the curtain or is he now under the bed? I wonder if he is shooting a Glock 40 with lead rounds? Anyone that is not responsible enough to monitor their barrel for leading should not be shooting anyway.
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Old March 22, 2009, 11:34 PM   #19
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If you BUY your cast lead bullets, they are normally around 18 BHN. That has a 25,50 FPS limit.

So you adjust your load to stay under that. I dont load 9mm, but my round I do load stays at 1900 fps tops. So Im GTG

If you cast your own, then you can richen the mixture and raise you BHN to 30. Heck you can get a 40k cup, and more them at rifle speeds

Leading is caused by moving the lead so fast, you melt it.

Keep it slow, and you will never lead your barrel

gas checks help lots too
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Old March 23, 2009, 01:14 AM   #20
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If you use lead in a polygonal barrel (HK, Sig, Glock) watch for build up of lead, it can cause a problem.
I have loaded many stout rounds for a Glock 23 and 27 with not one problem using Glock fired brass and plated or jacketed bullets, no lead.
Reloading for anything can be safe if you inspect, inspect and then inspect each step.
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Old March 23, 2009, 01:17 AM   #21
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lead

Yup...I wouldn't use lead in an polygonal barrel. I don't use lead in my semi-auto's either. It tends to make a mess.
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Old March 23, 2009, 06:23 AM   #22
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Well one good thing about shooting lead in a Glock is when I blow my hand off I can wear a sock for a glove I was un-aware that Glock Barrels were not heat treated I was also un-aware that shooting ANY reload in ANY Firearm did not void the warranty, not just Glocks

I don't have to worry about Factory double Charge in my Glock because all I shoot it are Reloads, so when it blows up I can look in the mirror and find out who to blame that is if I still have my eyes.

Roy don't worry there is no way I would bring my Glock to CA to shoot. It holds too many bullets and might scare someone to death over there

I thought Sig used Polygon Rifling also? Maybe I am wrong in that as i only have one Sig and I don't shoot it very much but the NMSP might ought to look at the guy who loads their training ammo. I am sure they shoot a lot of bullets but I think I can say I have shot as much out of my G21 in the last 17 years as they have in one day at the range I have yet to have a problem. Maybe they should have hired me and my RL550B to load their ammo for them.

I guess this bugger man is still out there so we need to get Chuck Norris to hunt it down with an Uzi and kill him.
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Old March 23, 2009, 02:46 PM   #23
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Just got home from the range! It's raining, windy and 36 degrees, so my shooting was INDOORS, BRRRR! My club has a 10 position 50 ft HEATED indoor range. I sat down, using a rest to shoot from.

Now for the results; First load was 4.8 WW-231 the lee boolits from post #7 above. I thoroughly cleaned the barrel before leaving home. I shot 5, then took a look down the tube. Normal fouling. The group was only okay, nothing to crow about! Couldn't keep them all in the black of a 50 ft. NRA slow fire target. Next came the 17 I had left of the 4.8 charge, they went into a group of around 5". My glock will keep all shots inside the 3" bull with plated or jacketed ammo.

Then came the 5.0 load, it went into a 2.5 inch group. Fired shells showed no sign of pressure. Another look down the BBL. showed no signs of lead build up, EXCEPT a little just in front of the chamber.

Now for the 5.4 load, with 2 flyers THAT WERE KEYHOLED, over 7"! Now the leading had progressed half way down the barrel.

Next the top load of 5.7. Over 8" with two flyers were classic, complete, keyholes! Now the barrel is leaded all the way to the muzzle. Not heavily leaded, but a light smear all along the thrust side of the rifling band. Also, one empty shell showed a slight guppy belly just ahead of the extractor groove. I now have 5 shells to pull apart.

What did I learn? 1, the alloy I used is way too soft. A link on this thread was to another thread where someone said the BHN should be around 18 for lead in glocks. Okay I can do that! 2, ww-231 is too fast for this lead boolit. I want case life from my reloads, the top load showed high pressure, I would have to retire too many cases. 3, if I would have continued to shoot all but the first 2 loads, I would have enough lead build up to cause higher pressures. All of this can and will be solved with a harder,(18 BHN), alloy.
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Old March 23, 2009, 05:49 PM   #24
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Oh my Lord snuffy do you still have both hands, or have you resorted to the "sock glove" now? It is actually too dangerous for you to even TALK about shooting lead in your Glock.
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Old March 23, 2009, 06:50 PM   #25
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Quite similar to what I have found also. I dont recall the powder charge vs velocity but I found that right around 850-900 i started leading bad in my g21. Anything lower and I was good to go, no different than any other gun. I was using 700x, btw.
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