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Old July 5, 2013, 07:17 PM   #1
thebser
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Can you buy replacment steel frames anywhere?

ive been looking to replace my brass with steel. Is it possible to get a replacement frame anywhere? I know ive been told don't worry about it but I have grooves cut in it already and the cylinder has a gap I can put 2 pieces of card stock in it. it moves enuff to make a sound if you shake it.....
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Old July 5, 2013, 07:34 PM   #2
mykeal
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None of the sutlers carry them. They are occasionally available on eBay.
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Old July 5, 2013, 08:12 PM   #3
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ugh

im gonna hafta find one and hope its cheaper than a new gun haha
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Old July 5, 2013, 09:22 PM   #4
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As has already been said, they are sometimes seen on eBay. If you go that route though, just make sure that the frame is the same as yours . . . i.e. don't try to put a ASM or a Pietta on a Uberti, etc. as it probably won't be the same.

Doc Hoy would be a good one to ask as far as interchangeable frames, etc. as he has worked on a lot of different brands. I'm sure others have as well.

If you know what brand, model, etc. you are looking for, I'd post a WTB (want to buy) on the classifieds here as well as over at CAS City - you never know what someone might have laying around.
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Old July 5, 2013, 09:24 PM   #5
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hmm

wonder if cva ever made steel frame navys
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Old July 5, 2013, 11:29 PM   #6
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your only hope is to buy a parts gun online. the importers dont sell the cylinder frame, only the whole gun.

however, since you like to shoot, its a lot easier just to get a whole new gun. the quality has improved with the years so get a nice pietta in that style.
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Old July 6, 2013, 02:24 AM   #7
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ebay.
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Old July 6, 2013, 04:34 AM   #8
Doc Hoy
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Thebser...

I know of no one who sells new frames. Seems like an odd policy and I am assuming that it has to do with some legal assumption. It certainly smells like a lawyer going for zero risk as they always do. Either that or some stupid government regulation.

I have had better luck starting with a frame and then adapting parts to fit it. In the end it is more of a PITA than it is worth to do the work to get all of the parts to work together. I do it because I enjoy it but I am prolly one of the few.

Shoot the revolver until you are no longer confident in it and then

1. Hang it on the wall.

or

2. Part it out. You might be surprised at what folks on eBay will pay for parts.

If that revolver is in good condition minus the frame, list the parts on eBay (Make sure you list them on eBay because you want to get into that market.) You can list the frame too but make sure you accurately describe the condition it is in and start it at a relatively low opening bid.

eBay once had the policy that they did not permit the sale of parts required to make a firearm discharge. (Or some such nonsense) I am fairly certain that policy has been either relaxed, rescinded, or ignored. There are plenty of parts for sale on eBay now, just no steel frames.
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Last edited by Doc Hoy; July 6, 2013 at 05:20 AM.
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Old July 6, 2013, 04:48 AM   #9
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Some philosophy from an opinionated old Fart....

In the previous post I mentioned two options.

I think these are good options and I left the post as it was originally written because I stand by the advice.

But I can tell you that I would keep that revolver until the Communists arrive.

That is the first cap and ball revolver you ever owned. Your cap and ball inner child grew up with it. (Its okay to chuckle at the expression; "cap and ball inner child")

I had an accumulation of cap and ball revolvers years ago which I sold because my thankfully Ex wife gave me such a hard time about them. I wish to high heaven I still had those revolvers. (Should have divorced the wife... then decided about my pistols) They were nothing special but they were special to me.

My recommendation is that you reread the previous post and take option 1.
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Old July 6, 2013, 05:12 AM   #10
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Almost forgot....

CVA doesn't make revolvers. They import them. It is a minor point but you want to learn it here rather than across the counter of the Bass Pro Shop.

If I am correctly informed their revolver sources are restricted to Armi Sam Marco and then Pietta following A.S.M.s decision to get out of the revolver market.

I think you can get a CVA imported steel frame Colt in 1851 pattern. I recommend .36 for authenticity and fun. On the other hand, Cabela's is selling the steel frame 1851 in .36 for 219.00 right now. At that price they are prolly throwing in free shipping. I bet someone on this forum has an unused twenty-bucks-off coupon they would part with. Be the first on your block...
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Last edited by Doc Hoy; July 6, 2013 at 05:17 AM.
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Old July 6, 2013, 11:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
2. Part it out. You might be surprised at what folks on eBay will pay for parts.
If that ain't the truth!!! People pay crazy prices on Ebay. Often a few parts will add up to more than a new revolver.

Note! Not in every case (since some folks will take this as gospel)
but here's one from just last week.... 1851 barrel for nearly 120 bucks
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Old July 6, 2013, 12:00 PM   #12
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I think Doc has made an excellent suggestion in his second post . . . hang on to it for the "inner C & B child". I've shot BP for fifty some years . . . and not under the same circumstances that Doc describes but rather from thinking I was doing the right thing, I sold and disposed of some items from my "beginning years" that I wish I had back . . . just for nostalgia reasons. I still have my first muzzle loader that I ever bought - a Remington Zouave that I paid the enormous sum of $65.00 for . . . and I worked hard to get the money with my Dad helping out with a "loan" so I could get it. Every time I look at it, I think of my Dad . . . a "first" revolver, whether shot out or not, will always bring the pleasant memories back to you in later years. I'd hang it on the wall after you no longer feel comfortable with it as far as a shooter and save up for a steel frame - I'd vote for the '51 Navy such as Doc mentions . . . but then, I'm real partial to that particular model.
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Old July 6, 2013, 12:11 PM   #13
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Shim and Shoot

Thebser, You can easily tighten the barrel/cylinder gap with a home-made metal shim on the rear of the cylinder.

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Old July 6, 2013, 01:43 PM   #14
thebser
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smokin joe

thanks for the pic! I had this thought and didn't know how well it would work! I tried to find a washer that would work but everything I found at the shop and home was too big or small....ill hafta find sumin. hmmm wonder if a crush washer for an oil plug might fit it...
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Old July 7, 2013, 02:59 PM   #15
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thebser, I make my shims out of brass shim stock.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449080

It takes a little work but that is the only way I can get what I want. The cylinder shim in the photo is made from .004" shim stock. The description you gave of your barrel/cylinder gap makes me think you may need to go thicker, maybe .006" or even .008". Check your gap with a feeler gauge to see what is required. If you make a shim that is too thick it can be made thinner with the help of some fine sandpaper or a knife sharpening stone.
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Old July 8, 2013, 08:02 PM   #16
45 Dragoon
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I know where some new frames are. I will check on the make and lef you know.

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Old July 8, 2013, 08:32 PM   #17
thebser
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thanks!

Thanks a lot!
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Old July 9, 2013, 02:01 PM   #18
45 Dragoon
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They had 2 brass and one steel. No maker marks but has arbor and appears to be from a kit. A good basis for a navy. $65.00 pluse sbipping ( steel frame).

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Old July 9, 2013, 02:25 PM   #19
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Is the steel frame rebated?
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Old July 9, 2013, 09:35 PM   #20
45 Dragoon
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Im sorry lm so late Hawg, no, its a navy frame.
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Old July 9, 2013, 09:38 PM   #21
thebser
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thats what i need

I need a navy but now im looking at a .50 muzzle loader
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Old July 10, 2013, 07:50 AM   #22
45 Dragoon
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Done here.


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