Broken hammer stud

Clark Kent · October 16, 2001, 11:41 AM

My S&W 29's hammer stud broke, and the base doesn't seem to want to be tapped out of the frame. It looks on the inside as if it might have been welded, although the knob pokes through near the cylinder release. The stud is listed as a separate part in S&W's generic revolver manual. I bought this old maggie in 1989. Any ideas? - Clark

James K · October 16, 2001, 03:59 PM

Those hammer studs are a drive fit, and attempts to get them out often leads to damage to the frame. Also, they usually come from S&W with the ends flat and need to be rounded off when installed. To get one out, use something to support the inside of the frame that has a hole to drive the stud into. Then use a hollow tip punch and hit it hard. Light taps will not usually do it.

Now for my recommendation. Send it back to S&W; they will fix that problem for free (at least they have done so in the past) and they will do it right. If you have political problems with that, find a good gunsmith. If you want to do it yourself, see above and have at it at your own risk.

Jim

Dfariswheel · October 16, 2001, 07:44 PM

Strongly recommend sending back to the factory.
S&W uses a press with support dies to press the studs in and out. Attempting to drive one out will sometimes upset the end causing it to get tighter. When it finally drives out, the hole is enlarged. Then you have to make an oversized stud.
You can also bulge the sidewall of the frame if you don't have proper support dies.
Save yourself the trouble. Bact to S&W.

Clark Kent · October 17, 2001, 03:01 PM

Many thanx, guys. I'm waiting to hear back from S&W. They've been great to deal with in the past, but I haven't tried them lately. Any suggestions on which carrier to use to get it back to them? I recall a couple of years ago UPS got greedy with us. I think I read somewhere that FedEx has stepped up and is offering a better deal. - Clark

C.R.Sam · October 17, 2001, 08:27 PM

FedEx a little easier to work with in my experience.

Depending on who you talk with at Smith, they may say UPS only. That be crock.......when they payin, they use FedEx. FedEx online tracking is great too. If you in doubt bout it gettin there, you can look it up and even see who signed for it.

As with any carrier.....document and insure. Make printout of tracking info.

Also document all correspondance with the factory. Log and take notes on phone calls. Save emails etc. That way if they loose all or part of your gun you can hammer em for a replacement.

Sam

October 16, 2001, 11:41 AM	#1
Clark Kent Senior Member Join Date: August 22, 1999 Posts: 128	Broken hammer stud My S&W 29's hammer stud broke, and the base doesn't seem to want to be tapped out of the frame. It looks on the inside as if it might have been welded, although the knob pokes through near the cylinder release. The stud is listed as a separate part in S&W's generic revolver manual. I bought this old maggie in 1989. Any ideas? - Clark

October 16, 2001, 03:59 PM	#2
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Those hammer studs are a drive fit, and attempts to get them out often leads to damage to the frame. Also, they usually come from S&W with the ends flat and need to be rounded off when installed. To get one out, use something to support the inside of the frame that has a hole to drive the stud into. Then use a hollow tip punch and hit it hard. Light taps will not usually do it. Now for my recommendation. Send it back to S&W; they will fix that problem for free (at least they have done so in the past) and they will do it right. If you have political problems with that, find a good gunsmith. If you want to do it yourself, see above and have at it at your own risk. Jim

October 16, 2001, 07:44 PM	#3
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Strongly recommend sending back to the factory. S&W uses a press with support dies to press the studs in and out. Attempting to drive one out will sometimes upset the end causing it to get tighter. When it finally drives out, the hole is enlarged. Then you have to make an oversized stud. You can also bulge the sidewall of the frame if you don't have proper support dies. Save yourself the trouble. Bact to S&W.

October 17, 2001, 03:01 PM	#4
Clark Kent Senior Member Join Date: August 22, 1999 Posts: 128	Many thanx, guys. I'm waiting to hear back from S&W. They've been great to deal with in the past, but I haven't tried them lately. Any suggestions on which carrier to use to get it back to them? I recall a couple of years ago UPS got greedy with us. I think I read somewhere that FedEx has stepped up and is offering a better deal. - Clark

October 17, 2001, 08:27 PM	#5
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	FedEx a little easier to work with in my experience. Depending on who you talk with at Smith, they may say UPS only. That be crock.......when they payin, they use FedEx. FedEx online tracking is great too. If you in doubt bout it gettin there, you can look it up and even see who signed for it. As with any carrier.....document and insure. Make printout of tracking info. Also document all correspondance with the factory. Log and take notes on phone calls. Save emails etc. That way if they loose all or part of your gun you can hammer em for a replacement. Sam