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Old January 15, 2009, 08:40 PM   #1
Oregon John
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Lee Auto Disk Setup - Newbie

I now have my Lee Classic Turret ready but I have a question about the Lee Pro Auto-Disk set up. I will be loading rifle .223 and .243. I have the Lee Rifle Charging die, which I remove the hex nut and screw in the Auto-Disk powder measure. I adjust the die so that a cartridge case moves the disk to the dump station. No more and no less.

The problem is even if I adjust it the die to where the disk just lines up with the dump hole, after a few test with my test cartridge, the mouth of the cartridge becomes slightly deformed.

Is this normal to deform the case mouth? Everything seems to be working. I have the spring lever for non-progressive presses installed properly.

Any advise on Auto-Disk set up will be appreciated

John
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Old January 15, 2009, 09:28 PM   #2
BRAVO1NINER
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You're pushing too hard, I did that with a .223 round. Just push till it moves over the hole.

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Old January 15, 2009, 09:38 PM   #3
the machinist
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Yep, you have it set too "deep" back it out 1/2 round and lock the nut and try it again..my powder dropper sits 90 degrees from where I wanted it to be..all nice and straight..but that's how it ended when I got it all set up.
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Old January 16, 2009, 12:10 AM   #4
Oregon John
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I really crunched the first case. I then backed off and tried another case. I set up just enough die seating so that the disk moves over the dump hole. But, it seems to take a good amount of pressure to make it move. The spring seems too powerful. Should I remove some of the spring tension?

By the way, my pro auto-disk came as a stand along and already had the spring attached so I did not need to install it.
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Old January 16, 2009, 12:50 AM   #5
rwilson452
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NO. Don't remove the tension on the spring. Yes it's strong. That strong tension ensures the return. the The autodisk is always mfg as a stand alone, When someone makes up a kit they just add it. they are all the same.

Quote:
I really crunched the first case. I then backed off and tried another case. I set up just enough die seating so that the disk moves over the dump hole. But, it seems to take a good amount of pressure to make it move. The spring seems too powerful. Should I remove some of the spring tension?

By the way, my pro auto-disk came as a stand along and already had the spring attached so I did not need to install it.
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Old January 16, 2009, 07:00 PM   #6
Oregon John
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Thanks for the information. It seems I am on the right track.

Now, I need to figure out which disk cc hole for 25.3 gains of Varget.

Is it mainly trial and error? What is the process you use to set the right cc hole for the grain weight of a particular powder. I realize each powder will be different. The Auto Disk came with a sheet that provides cc to grain for some powders but there are many not covered.

Thanks again for help.
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Old January 16, 2009, 07:56 PM   #7
DaveInPA
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Do you have the double disk kit? If not, you need to get it before you can load rifle rounds with the auto disk measure. Also, ball powders work best with it. It doesn't give very consistent results with stick powders like Varget. Try H335 or BL(C)-2.
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Old January 16, 2009, 10:26 PM   #8
rwilson452
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the chart will get you in the ball park after that you will need to adjust.

Thanks for the information. It seems I am on the right track.

Now, I need to figure out which disk cc hole for 25.3 gains of Varget.

Quote:
Is it mainly trial and error? What is the process you use to set the right cc hole for the grain weight of a particular powder. I realize each powder will be different. The Auto Disk came with a sheet that provides cc to grain for some powders but there are many not covered.

Thanks again for help.
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Old January 16, 2009, 10:31 PM   #9
totalloser
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+1, you will NEED the double disk. And you might need to make your own "wings" to triple disc for .243. I couldn't drop enough for .308 with mine. I drilled a hole to 9/16" to make my drop, but triple disc is better.

I am using wc846 with blc-2 data. I like the stuff too, and it was only $95 per 8 pounder! www.patsreloading.com Took a while to get, tho. Pat seems to always have a waiting list. +1 to using the spring too. A light charge could leave one in the pipe! :O
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Old January 17, 2009, 01:06 AM   #10
Oregon John
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I have the double disk set. I also have the adjustable charge bar. For those with experience with the charge bar, does it work well? It looks like in the instructions it provides a method for determining VMD (Volume Measure Density) Does anyone have the VMD for Varget?
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Old January 17, 2009, 01:17 AM   #11
Oregon John
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I just found a PDF on the Lee web site that gives the VMD for most powders. If anyone needs it, it is located at:

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data...VMD%20List.pdf
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Old January 17, 2009, 01:51 AM   #12
ljnowell
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John, I just got my charge bar in the mail yesterday and will be trying it out tomorrow. I will report back and let you know what I think.
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Old January 17, 2009, 08:42 PM   #13
Oregon John
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I just tried my charge bar and the maximum I could get with Varget was about 20 grains. I tried the double disk and was able to get 25.2 grains in a reasonably consistent basis.

However, I am still having the problem of the auto disk setup deforming the case mouth. I have tried setting it to where the CC hole in the double disk moves over the drop hole, and not more, buy I still get deformed case mouths.

I will lighten my touch but this is frustrating. I will hand measure my next 20 and not use the auto disk until I have the right "touch".

Now, I have 20 primed cases with deformed mouths, which make it impossible to seat a bullet. Any suggestions what to do about the primed cases?

John
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Old January 17, 2009, 09:14 PM   #14
DaveInPA
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John,

Your charging die is screwed too far into the press. It should only be in far enough so that when the case is raised into the die, the disks just move over the hole to drop the charge. Mine NEVER deforms case mouths. Back that die out. Read the directions and follow them.
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Old January 17, 2009, 11:08 PM   #15
rwilson452
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to fix your deformed cases. If your using a Lee Sizing die, loosen the collet holding the decapping pin in. Push it up until it will no longer decap the case and then tighten the collet again. If the cases are not too badly deformed this will work. If they are too badly deformed they are toast.
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Old January 18, 2009, 01:49 AM   #16
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If you have the newer easyx decap pin, you can also just leave it in place, and don't run it down all the way. The easyx expander does it's thing before the pin reaches the primer on .223 in mine. If it got smooshed bad enough to not clear the beginning of the easyx, you can still open it up with an ice pick or similar tool, and then run it into the die stopping short of pushing out the primer. Basically the same principal as RWilson says.
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