carry gun rusting

mdlowry · August 21, 2002, 05:50 PM

Lately I've been carrying a blued revolver. I've been wiping it down just about every day with Breakfree CLP. At first I didn't think about checking under the grips since I don't always take them off when I clean. After about a week of carrying I pull the grips off and it had already started to rust.

Wiping it down with Breakfree removed most of the rust and the rest came off with 0000 steel wool.

Even cleaning it daily now, I've still been noticing rusting, but only in that same spot. Is there anything that will stop it from rusting? BTW, this is carried IWB and the rust is under the grip on the side next to my body.

stans · August 21, 2002, 06:07 PM

Once the oxidation (rust) process starts, it is hard to stop. You must remove all of the rust, since that oxidized layer of metal acts as a moisture magnet. Using 0000 steel wool and and oil will help remove the rust. Blue and rust removing solutions will also work, but like the label says, "removes blue and rust". Sandblasting is a sure-fire way to remove the rust, but it would require refinishing the gun. Once the rust is removed, the bare metal needs to be protected. Some touch up blues will also cause rust if the solution is not completely neutralized once the desired blueing has been achieved. I have heard, but have no experience with, Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is good for touch up's.

CWL · August 21, 2002, 07:46 PM

You may need to get your wheelie refinished. Perhaps even in hightech polymer or hardchrome.

James K · August 21, 2002, 11:23 PM

Break free is a good penetrant and cleaner, but not good for rust prevention. Use a good gun oil. If rust is under the grips, don't forget to clean the grips with water and oil them before replacing them. Wood grips especially will hold moisture and salt from sweat and that will cause the gun to rust in the same place.

Jim

C.R.Sam · August 22, 2002, 12:05 AM

Suggest..
Get some RIG. Put a little on a cloth or piece of sheepskin, work it into the cloth or wool.

Remove all the rust. Then...

Use this RIG rag to wipe the gun down, you want to leave a very thin film on the gun. Do this under the grips weekly.

As Jim says....clean the grips before putting them back on.

Stuff works great on the inside too.

This system worked for me in the tropics.

Sam

Chuck Dye · August 22, 2002, 01:39 AM

Check out the various waxes available. Once the existing rust is removed, the only way to prevent new rust is to exclude oxygen. Under the grips, a coat of wax should work and last almost indefinitely. The Sept. American Rifleman Q&A mentions microcrystalline waxes.

WESHOOT2 · August 22, 2002, 05:01 AM

My Caspian would rust just looking at it, so off to Robar for their NP3 finish.
Perfect.
Someday all my guns (yes, even the 'stainless' ones rusting in my safe) will be NP3'd.

Walt Sherrill · August 22, 2002, 07:57 AM

Jim Keenan wrote:

Quote:

Break free is a good penetrant and cleaner, but not good for rust prevention. Use a good gun oil. If rust is under the grips, don't forget to clean the grips with water and oil them before replacing them. Wood grips especially will hold moisture and salt from sweat and that will cause the gun to rust in the same place.

I've seen a number of controlled tests assessing the various gun-related oils and preservatives, and CLP generally comes out one of the best (generally ranking 1 or 2) in terms of corrosion/rust resistance. I'm curious as to why you make the claim, above.

Gun oil, used as a rust preventative, generally ranks pretty low in these tests.

I'll see if I can find a couple of the studies, tonight, and post them here. (Or, more correctly, post the links.)

mdlowry · August 22, 2002, 01:31 PM

WESHOOT, what type of finish is NP3?

C.R. Sam, is RIG an oil or a wax? Will it be at my gun store?

C.R.Sam · August 22, 2002, 03:20 PM

RIG = Rust Inhibiting Grease. Better gun stores and machinist's supply houses.

Sam

James K · August 22, 2002, 04:46 PM

Walt, I say that because I have tried a lot of those cleaners, including Break Free and CLP, and they are too thin to hold well. I think they are probably OK in a static test where you spray them on a piece of steel and let it alone to rust or not. But with something being handled, I still think a light coating of oil or maybe grease works better. (Another problem is that some of the penetrants, like WD-40, can deaden primers if over used or just sprayed on a loaded gun, but that is not something anyone should do.)

The penetrants do have a place in removing rust. I use G96 Gun Treatment for that and IMO it is fine for that, but I don't depend on it for long term protection of a carry gun.

I admit that I have avoided grease, for the simple reason that having a gun slip right out of my hand could be, at best, embarassing, at worst...

Jim

C.R.Sam · August 22, 2002, 04:52 PM

Very thin coat of RIG, (all that's needed), doesn't make gun slippery.

Sam

CAH · August 22, 2002, 07:42 PM

FP-10 CLP is the best rust preventative, lubricant, and cleaner that I've found. Get a free sample, and more info. here:

www.fp10.com

Best regards,
Clay

Giant · August 22, 2002, 08:20 PM

Birchwood Casey makes a product called Sheath. It is a rust preventive. It is also used to neutralize the Birchwood Casey cold blue products, to prevent further rust from the bluing process. It works! I get mine at Big 5!

Giant

WESHOOT2 · August 22, 2002, 09:57 PM

Electroless nickel (hard) impregnated with Teflon (slippery).

Perfect.

MrMurphy · August 23, 2002, 05:10 PM

For the cheap less-rust solution, use Sentry Solutions (www.sentrysolutions.com) Tuf-Cloth. Like a silicone cloth but "wet" dries non-sticky. Works very well on blued firearms, I wipe down my Marlins (.30-30 and .22) with them, and occasionally my AK, though it's got a good enough finish it's not as necessary. They developed it for the SEALs, and the company when I ordered mine said a lot of Down South cops who keep 12ga's in their trunks wipe them down with Tuf-Cloth before casing them. I've adopted this process and have never had a problem since. For $11 it's worth it till you can get a gee-whiz finish like Roguard or NP3 or Bear Coat.

August 21, 2002, 05:50 PM	#1
mdlowry Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2001 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 417	carry gun rusting Lately I've been carrying a blued revolver. I've been wiping it down just about every day with Breakfree CLP. At first I didn't think about checking under the grips since I don't always take them off when I clean. After about a week of carrying I pull the grips off and it had already started to rust. Wiping it down with Breakfree removed most of the rust and the rest came off with 0000 steel wool. Even cleaning it daily now, I've still been noticing rusting, but only in that same spot. Is there anything that will stop it from rusting? BTW, this is carried IWB and the rust is under the grip on the side next to my body. __________________ My PGP key

August 22, 2002, 01:39 AM	#6
Chuck Dye Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 2002 Location: Oregon-The wet side. Posts: 949	Check out the various waxes available. Once the existing rust is removed, the only way to prevent new rust is to exclude oxygen. Under the grips, a coat of wax should work and last almost indefinitely. The Sept. American Rifleman Q&A mentions microcrystalline waxes. __________________ Gee, I'd love to see your data!

August 22, 2002, 05:01 AM	#7
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	RUST IS MY FRIEND My Caspian would rust just looking at it, so off to Robar for their NP3 finish. Perfect. Someday all my guns (yes, even the 'stainless' ones rusting in my safe) will be NP3'd. __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

August 22, 2002, 01:31 PM	#9
mdlowry Senior Member Join Date: December 15, 2001 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 417	WESHOOT, what type of finish is NP3? C.R. Sam, is RIG an oil or a wax? Will it be at my gun store? __________________ My PGP key

August 22, 2002, 09:57 PM	#15
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	Robar NP3 Electroless nickel (hard) impregnated with Teflon (slippery). Perfect. __________________ . "all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"

August 21, 2002, 06:07 PM	#2
stans Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2001 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 838	Once the oxidation (rust) process starts, it is hard to stop. You must remove all of the rust, since that oxidized layer of metal acts as a moisture magnet. Using 0000 steel wool and and oil will help remove the rust. Blue and rust removing solutions will also work, but like the label says, "removes blue and rust". Sandblasting is a sure-fire way to remove the rust, but it would require refinishing the gun. Once the rust is removed, the bare metal needs to be protected. Some touch up blues will also cause rust if the solution is not completely neutralized once the desired blueing has been achieved. I have heard, but have no experience with, Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is good for touch up's.

August 21, 2002, 07:46 PM	#3
CWL Senior Member Join Date: May 23, 2001 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 1,576	You may need to get your wheelie refinished. Perhaps even in hightech polymer or hardchrome.

August 21, 2002, 11:23 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Break free is a good penetrant and cleaner, but not good for rust prevention. Use a good gun oil. If rust is under the grips, don't forget to clean the grips with water and oil them before replacing them. Wood grips especially will hold moisture and salt from sweat and that will cause the gun to rust in the same place. Jim

August 22, 2002, 12:05 AM	#5
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	Suggest.. Get some RIG. Put a little on a cloth or piece of sheepskin, work it into the cloth or wool. Remove all the rust. Then... Use this RIG rag to wipe the gun down, you want to leave a very thin film on the gun. Do this under the grips weekly. As Jim says....clean the grips before putting them back on. Stuff works great on the inside too. This system worked for me in the tropics. Sam

August 22, 2002, 03:20 PM	#10
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	RIG = Rust Inhibiting Grease. Better gun stores and machinist's supply houses. Sam

August 22, 2002, 04:46 PM	#11
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Walt, I say that because I have tried a lot of those cleaners, including Break Free and CLP, and they are too thin to hold well. I think they are probably OK in a static test where you spray them on a piece of steel and let it alone to rust or not. But with something being handled, I still think a light coating of oil or maybe grease works better. (Another problem is that some of the penetrants, like WD-40, can deaden primers if over used or just sprayed on a loaded gun, but that is not something anyone should do.) The penetrants do have a place in removing rust. I use G96 Gun Treatment for that and IMO it is fine for that, but I don't depend on it for long term protection of a carry gun. I admit that I have avoided grease, for the simple reason that having a gun slip right out of my hand could be, at best, embarassing, at worst... Jim

August 22, 2002, 04:52 PM	#12
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	Very thin coat of RIG, (all that's needed), doesn't make gun slippery. Sam

August 22, 2002, 07:42 PM	#13
CAH Retired Screen Name Join Date: July 7, 2002 Posts: 18	FP-10 CLP is the best rust preventative, lubricant, and cleaner that I've found. Get a free sample, and more info. here: www.fp10.com Best regards, Clay

August 22, 2002, 08:20 PM	#14
Giant Member Join Date: August 1, 2002 Location: PRK, Bay Area Posts: 69	Birchwood Casey makes a product called Sheath. It is a rust preventive. It is also used to neutralize the Birchwood Casey cold blue products, to prevent further rust from the bluing process. It works! I get mine at Big 5! Giant

August 23, 2002, 05:10 PM	#16
MrMurphy Member Join Date: August 13, 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 92	For the cheap less-rust solution, use Sentry Solutions (www.sentrysolutions.com) Tuf-Cloth. Like a silicone cloth but "wet" dries non-sticky. Works very well on blued firearms, I wipe down my Marlins (.30-30 and .22) with them, and occasionally my AK, though it's got a good enough finish it's not as necessary. They developed it for the SEALs, and the company when I ordered mine said a lot of Down South cops who keep 12ga's in their trunks wipe them down with Tuf-Cloth before casing them. I've adopted this process and have never had a problem since. For $11 it's worth it till you can get a gee-whiz finish like Roguard or NP3 or Bear Coat. __________________ Every Man Dies. Not Every Man Truly Lives.