July 23, 2008, 08:18 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 27, 2007
Posts: 307
|
Blued to Parkerized?
Hello experts. I've got a SA 1911 with a blued finish that's starting to show a good bit of wear. I'd like to remove it and go parkerized.
I'm pretty handy with tools and have not had good luck with gunsmiths in my area, so I'd like to give it a go on my own. Is this something best left to a pro, or would it be an easy process? Thanks |
July 23, 2008, 01:26 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 15,248
|
Find a smith that does Parkerizing, and let them strip and refinish the gun.
__________________
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services |
July 23, 2008, 01:34 PM | #3 | |
Junior member
Join Date: April 8, 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,769
|
Quote:
Unless you are fully prepared and willing to live with a ruined gun ("ugly"-ruined), go with a gunsmith. Even if you have to find an smith in a different state, do your gun and yourself a favor and have it done right. You wont regret it...like you very well might if you do it yourself. And as you say this is a Springfield Armory 1911, I dont think you want that as a ruined gun. |
|
July 23, 2008, 04:11 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 24, 2006
Posts: 596
|
It's not hard to parkerize your own, I have done it with very exellent results without any previous experience at the time. It's a matter of being totally clean and having the right supplies. You can order supplies from Midway and like I said make sure your parts are totally clean, park solution is the right temp, hot water bath afterward to keep the item hot so the water will evaporate and then while it's hot dip in oil for a while so it will not rust. In fact if you use burnt motor oil for your oil it will come out a little green tint like some like. I tried it because it is rewarding to do your own with great results.
|
July 23, 2008, 05:14 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 12, 2006
Posts: 1,512
|
Never done it myself but I do know the cost of setting up a rig (even making most parts from scraps around the shop) is way more than just having it done without the risk.
I wouldnt recommend it unless you plan on doing it a lot more than once. |
July 24, 2008, 05:58 AM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 24, 2006
Posts: 596
|
Cost is a factor for sure, with that said a little brain power you can come up with some very ingenious ways of doing things. For instance a good thick plastic and card board will work for a tank if you are in a pinch or don't have funds for S S tanks. And yes this has been done even if it sounds half A$$, there are other trick's that can be used also, the main thing is clean.
|
July 24, 2008, 06:36 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Posts: 1,484
|
I agree with above, make sure your process is very tight and parking is pretty easy. You can buy a kit from Brownells or go with a home brew. Home brews are more finicky to process and measurements so might go with the kit for ease of use.
It's a fun project. If you screw it up, no harm. Its just park. It can be redone or sent off. The fun is in the doing. Ohh, to remove the blue, go with a short dip in 50/50 muriatic acid/water. Just long enough to remove the blue. As for the park, again, up to you on which to go with. I have some links for home brew if you want. |
July 24, 2008, 01:15 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 10,984
|
You need a sandblaster.........
|
July 24, 2008, 07:00 PM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 12,453
|
"...a good thick plastic and card board will work for a tank..." No it won't. Properly done, parkerizing involves heating the solution to 190 to 210 degrees. Phosphoric acid is one of the ingredients. No plastic, and certainly no cardboard, will work.
__________________
Spelling and grammar count! |
July 24, 2008, 08:37 PM | #10 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: November 21, 2004
Posts: 1,484
|
Quote:
More work, patience and care needed, but not impossible You can preblast the parts for surface roughage but the solution still etches the parts in the reaction. A blaster makes for quick work though - a great tool to have! Quote:
+1 I always used 2 pots on the stove (take your proper precautions!). One with hot water to preheat/rinse the parts, the second with the solution. Those were the final 2 of 4 containers. First was a dish soap/hot water, second was rinse. |
||
July 25, 2008, 06:00 AM | #11 |
Member
Join Date: July 28, 2006
Posts: 57
|
Refinish
Try Mac at www.shootiniron.com.............some good choices
__________________
In times of universal deceit, those who speak the truth are revolutionaries. |
July 25, 2008, 06:05 AM | #12 |
Member
Join Date: July 28, 2006
Posts: 57
|
redo
__________________
In times of universal deceit, those who speak the truth are revolutionaries. |
July 25, 2008, 06:49 AM | #13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 23, 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,676
|
I have done complete handguns and alot of parts for mil. restoration. But I had access to a BEAD BLASTER, not sand blaster. For me, sand leaves a rough texture. Glass beads leave a nice satin texture that works excellent with home park. chemicals. Only flaws I have had is that sometimes steel with different types of surface hardening can result in different shades or even odd colors. Had a carbine bolt come out with a golden tint once. Had the slide of a Chinese Tok look darker at one end than the other due to uneven surface hardening. But generally I have had fine results doing it myself. Last .45 job I did was a frame-I stippled the front strap and then refinished the frame OK. It is also useful for bayonets, knives, tools etc. But follow the instructions. At this time I don't have access to a bead blaster for any large parts anymore so am limited in what I do. Have to pass thru security checkpoint so it has to be deniable as a gun looking part! No frames or barrels etc.
__________________
Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you! |
July 25, 2008, 07:06 AM | #14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 24, 2006
Posts: 596
|
Quote:
I also have done the stove top version with great results before investing in SS tanks. If you can't say something constructive try not to say anything next time, it may come back and bite ya! |
|
July 25, 2008, 07:46 AM | #15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: June 23, 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,676
|
I use stainless steel containers myself. Most are used food service heating trays and tanks that I got dirt cheap. I had a shop weld up a long tank from stainless stock and leak checked it but that is not used very often. I also use pyrex beakers and casseroles for small parts as they are sufficient for boiling water temperatures. Heck, you gotta refinish some small gun parts, just use a appropriately sized glass beaker and you don't use very much chemicals or waste much. You need a glass thermometer or electronic thermometer with stainless probe that goes to at least around 250F. to monitor the solution temperature for home use.
__________________
Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you! |
|
|