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Old December 20, 2014, 06:22 PM   #1
smuckie
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Ruger P95

Having trouble with reloads for my P95,tried several recipes and even sent it back to Ruger( great service by the way)but everyone of them will jamb or stovepipe if I don't set bullet to near max COL(1.155) and at max charge, any thoughts why, factory ammo no better, it's reliable when I do this but why?
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Old December 20, 2014, 06:24 PM   #2
4V50 Gary
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Oil the rails and make sure it's clean

First, ask an experienced shooter to shoot it with different types of ammo. If it doesn't jam, then the issue is the shooter (limp wristing).

Second, start narrowing down the type of ammo. Go first with FMJs. Then start with HPs. Then go with different handloads.
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Old December 20, 2014, 06:38 PM   #3
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P95

Been shooting for 45 years, tried several grip positions, my Browning Hi Power shoots every time,tried several factory ammos, my reloads do better, if I lower charge it jambs or set bullet deeper it jambs
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Old December 20, 2014, 06:44 PM   #4
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My P95 is extremely reliable (until it gets really dirty), but most loads through it have been mid-level plated round nose at 1.14".
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Old December 20, 2014, 07:07 PM   #5
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What did Ruger do to it? If they looked at it, the gun should work.

By the way, your gun JAMS, a jamb is part of a door or window frame.
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Old December 20, 2014, 08:37 PM   #6
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Your post isnt completely clear, it almost sounds as if you experience issues with factory ammo AND handloads also?

Easiest possible and often most likely fix is a new magazine.
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Old December 20, 2014, 09:14 PM   #7
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P95

Ruger replaced the extractor spring and polished the slide grooves and I have experienced jamming with both factory and reloads especially white box Winchester but also Blazers and CCI, I reloaded some 124 grn FMJs today and they shot perfect as long as I made them 1.155 long and max charge of Tightgroup, don't unders why longer works better
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Old December 21, 2014, 04:22 PM   #8
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Ruger worked on the pistol. They must test fire before they sent it back to you. Apparent they didn't see any jams. It still makes sense let somebody else shoots while you watch, or you shoot from a vise if you have one.

-TL
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Old December 21, 2014, 08:40 PM   #9
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Check your ejector to see if it got bent. Common problem t=with the P95. There are a few threads and videos on it. But if the Ejector looks like this....


Either straighten it yourself or just order another one. The problem happens on take down often when someone forgets to move the extractor into take down position.
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Old December 22, 2014, 05:45 PM   #10
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Ejector

Ruger adjusted that too mine looks just like yours
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Old December 22, 2014, 07:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Ruger adjusted that too mine looks just like yours
If it looks like that pic it is out of adjustment/bent. That is a pic of a bent one. The extractor and ejector work in combination to get brass to eject properly. The extractor removes it and as the slide comes back it holds tension on the edge of the case on the ejection side while the ejector finishes flipping the casing by pushing on the opposite side.

Some guns have run with one or the other broke, bent or malfunctioning but rarely %100. Sometimes the stop of the slide on the back stroke will jar the casing loose from the extractor if the ejector is malfunctioning, weak, bent, out of spec, etc.
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Old December 22, 2014, 08:18 PM   #12
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Wreck-n-Crew -

I took a look at mine, which is dead nuts reliable, and I don't see much if any difference as compared to your pic. How is the one shown above bent?
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Old December 22, 2014, 08:19 PM   #13
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Pic

Mine is bent in towards center of brass a little but not a whole lot
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Old December 22, 2014, 08:58 PM   #14
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The only time Iv see a Ruger P sieries jam its been because it was not held tight and the slide doesn't go back far enough to eject the empty or not pick up the next round . There is a common term for holding a simi auto like this but I forgot it .
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Old December 23, 2014, 08:18 PM   #15
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I took a look at mine, which is dead nuts reliable, and I don't see much if any difference as compared to your pic. How is the one shown above bent?
Mistake...posted the wrong pic. That pic is normal!...can't find the other one. Had it on Photo bucket but not necessary if yours is fine.

If it's not like that you likely have a problem!...lol
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Old December 23, 2014, 08:35 PM   #16
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I have almost no experience with the p-95, but I have worked on about everything else. The first thing I would try would be using a reduced weight slide spring.
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Old December 24, 2014, 12:25 AM   #17
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Understanding

I'm still not understanding, the same gun, same shooter with same wrist and grip, only difference is loading shells at max charge and max length, different results
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Old December 24, 2014, 01:55 AM   #18
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If it won't run with factory ammo, don't worry about handloads, yet.

There's something wrong with that P95, or it isn't broken in yet. Did you buy it new? How many rounds have you put through it?


P95s won't win beauty pageants, engineering awards, or design awards; but they're notoriously reliable.

...The exception being when they're brand new. Some P95s need upwards of 300 rounds through them, before the frame rails are worn in and let the slide cycle smoothly. My own P95 was, unfortunately, one of those that required quite a bit of "break in" time (it had the occasional bobble until I had over 600 rounds through it). Since then, however, it has been 100% reliable for people that don't limp-wrist it. It will run like a champ with anything from super-wimpy loads (4.0 gr Unique under 122 LFP @ 1.090") to super hot loads (+P+ and beyond), with any bullet weight that has ever been stuffed into it (85 gr to 152 gr).
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Old December 24, 2014, 11:24 AM   #19
smuckie
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P95

Bought it new about 3 years ago, put maybe 500 rnds through it, I was hoping it would get better, since I reload my own I can make the shells so it's reliable so I'm not worried to much about it,just thought I could find a fix besides full charges not that I mind them,also shoot a Ruger Redhawk 44 mag:-)
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Old December 24, 2014, 01:32 PM   #20
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The confusing part is that Ruger no doubt tested it with factory ammo and wouldn't likely return it to you unless it was trouble free.
We have a riddle wrapped in mystery inside an enigma.
The hotter ammo that works might be compensating for a less than aggressive grip technique this pistol might require.
While a longer cartridge length wouldn't affect stove piping, since the bullet is long gone by then, it could very well affect feeding and avoiding jams.
Just a guess, though.
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Old December 25, 2014, 01:42 AM   #21
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Take a close look at the slide and frame rails. See how they're wearing and look for anything that could be causing cycling issues.
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Old December 25, 2014, 04:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
I have almost no experience with the p-95, but I have worked on about everything else. The first thing I would try would be using a reduced weight slide spring.
The recoil spring on a P-95 is a captive unit fixed to the guide rod. While it could be disassembled, it isn't quite as simple as the average semi-auto pistol with a free, single spring.
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Old December 25, 2014, 12:38 PM   #23
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rugerp95

Had problem with mine when I first got it. I found that I wasn't keeping the slide lubed enough. I haven't had a problem since keeping it oiled.
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Old December 26, 2014, 02:56 AM   #24
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The recoil spring on a P-95 is a captive unit fixed to the guide rod. While it could be disassembled, it isn't quite as simple as the average semi-auto pistol with a free, single spring.
Nah...
It's just one C-clip/E-clip, and you're good to ... "What the.. Son of a bi... That hurt like a mo... Why didn't you guys tell me it was one spring inside another, and that they were 7 feet long!?"


For the first two years that I owned my P95, I pulled the clip and cleaned the guide rod with every cleaning. Then the clip vanished during a shooting session, so I didn't clean anything that couldn't be done without removing the guide rod and (uncaptured) springs from the slide assembly. I cleaned the barrel from the muzzle, with the slide locked open ...and ran it for probably 800-1,200 rounds with the clip missing.
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