Browning B78 Trigger Problems

adams528 · November 18, 2007, 08:51 AM

I have had a Browning B78 in 25-06 for several years. It has beautiful wood and a nicely blued octagonal barrel. I really like the looks of this rifle but the original trigger wasn't the best. I took it to a local gunsmith and asked if he could take improve on the trigger, he said no problem. I picked up the gun and when I got home I was showing my young son how the single action worked, etc. When I closed the action the hammer flew forward with no touching of the trigger. Luckily there was no round in the chamber. So, I take it back and have it looked at again. When I get it back this time I get it to the range and when you chamber a round and the hammer is back you pull the trigger nothing, if you sort of recock it, I mean just push the already back hammer down a little and then repull the trigger it fires! Any help out there?

Art Eatman · November 18, 2007, 09:22 AM

Find a gunsmith who knows what he's doing.

Moved to the gunsmithing forum.

Harry Bonar · November 18, 2007, 01:35 PM

Sir:
Virtually every trigger "encounter" I've had has been "chancy" - meaning on 1911s, you always wonder - even though you've tested it correctly if you're going to get a "follow" or an AD!
One prominent National Guard Armourer has ceased doing ANY 1911, or other trigger jobs just for this reason, and I'm very careful, or was before I retired, in who I did trigger jobs for.
All trigger jobs are fraught with danger - really, it is better to learn correctly HOW to pull or press a trigger than to lighten one, willy-nilly, to keep from flinching or not pressing a trigger correctly.
Plus, there are "idiots" out there who can do "anything" and know nothing.
I was asked to put together 1911 parts - I worked on faulty parts 4 hours, laid it down on the bench and told my customer, "Do not let anyone put this junk together, you owe me nothing, and do not try to put these parts together!

This "trigger" business is entirely out of hand! Light, light, light is the clarion call today. Hourse-hocky, as Col. Sherman Potter said! Learn to press a trigger correctly, regardless of its pull weight and you'll be suprised that you: can shoot any firearm correctly.
Now, to your Browning; Send it back to Browning so they can restore the parts that are ruined and then LEAVE IT BE!
I do not mean to be demeaning, or rude but this is just exactly the truth about "trigger work."
Certainly, if a (smith)?? says, "no problem" leave as if he's a pit-bull with aids and bites!
I'm sorry for your problem - you have a fine rifle.
Harry B.

November 18, 2007, 08:51 AM	#1
adams528 Junior Member Join Date: February 14, 2007 Posts: 6	Browning B78 Trigger Problems I have had a Browning B78 in 25-06 for several years. It has beautiful wood and a nicely blued octagonal barrel. I really like the looks of this rifle but the original trigger wasn't the best. I took it to a local gunsmith and asked if he could take improve on the trigger, he said no problem. I picked up the gun and when I got home I was showing my young son how the single action worked, etc. When I closed the action the hammer flew forward with no touching of the trigger. Luckily there was no round in the chamber. So, I take it back and have it looked at again. When I get it back this time I get it to the range and when you chamber a round and the hammer is back you pull the trigger nothing, if you sort of recock it, I mean just push the already back hammer down a little and then repull the trigger it fires! Any help out there?

November 18, 2007, 01:35 PM	#3
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	Trigger work Sir: Virtually every trigger "encounter" I've had has been "chancy" - meaning on 1911s, you always wonder - even though you've tested it correctly if you're going to get a "follow" or an AD! One prominent National Guard Armourer has ceased doing ANY 1911, or other trigger jobs just for this reason, and I'm very careful, or was before I retired, in who I did trigger jobs for. All trigger jobs are fraught with danger - really, it is better to learn correctly HOW to pull or press a trigger than to lighten one, willy-nilly, to keep from flinching or not pressing a trigger correctly. Plus, there are "idiots" out there who can do "anything" and know nothing. I was asked to put together 1911 parts - I worked on faulty parts 4 hours, laid it down on the bench and told my customer, "Do not let anyone put this junk together, you owe me nothing, and do not try to put these parts together! This "trigger" business is entirely out of hand! Light, light, light is the clarion call today. Hourse-hocky, as Col. Sherman Potter said! Learn to press a trigger correctly, regardless of its pull weight and you'll be suprised that you: can shoot any firearm correctly. Now, to your Browning; Send it back to Browning so they can restore the parts that are ruined and then LEAVE IT BE! I do not mean to be demeaning, or rude but this is just exactly the truth about "trigger work." Certainly, if a (smith)?? says, "no problem" leave as if he's a pit-bull with aids and bites! I'm sorry for your problem - you have a fine rifle. Harry B.

November 18, 2007, 09:22 AM	#2
Art Eatman Staff in Memoriam Join Date: November 13, 1998 Location: Terlingua, TX; Thomasville, GA Posts: 24,798	Find a gunsmith who knows what he's doing. Moved to the gunsmithing forum.