Storing ammo long term ( help )

Puma prepper · December 2, 2014, 06:20 PM

Hi all, I have recently made a Gun / Ammo room with all my guns, ammo and accessories in it. With a dehumidifier i keep the room at 45% humidity, good for guns and ammo?

My biggest question is i decided to put all my stored ammo on a shelf in the room instead of being in the ammo cans. I figure it would be fine being that the humidity is low. Im thinking this is a better idea vs sealing moisture in the can every time i open and shut it. Let me know your thoughts, thanks

Jeff2131 · December 2, 2014, 06:49 PM

Ammo can with a seal, toss in.a couple descecant bags and that ammo will out last you. No need to get all crazy with it, there have been a ton of topics on here regarding this.subject matter and many many agree that unless youre storing it in bad conditions, youll be just fine with most peoples very simple suggestions.

firewrench044 · December 2, 2014, 07:01 PM

My long term storage is-
(223 )
100 rounds per Quart freezer bag
4 freezer bags in vacuum sealed freezer bag (200 rounds )
4 freezer bags in a 50 cal ammo box 800 rounds )
cans labeled

larger cartridges there are less per ammo can

as some are used the rest are still sealed

Nick_C_S · December 2, 2014, 07:07 PM

You might be over-thinking it a little. I believe that either choice will work just fine.

But I do follow your line of logic: If the air in the room is "good" (proper temp/humidity), why not allow it to circulate around your ammo? A lot of people wish they had your "problem."

If it were me, I'd keep the ammo in the cans, but open the cans now and then to exchange the air. In either case, you're ammo is likely to last for decades. Well done.

riflemen · December 2, 2014, 07:12 PM

I am in the middle of setting up an ammo safe, I scored a 53 gun safe for $200 Its a browning sporting model normal price is over $2000, but this one has been in a flood, I emptied it out and Im going to build some horizontal rotating shelves for holding ammo, powder and all my reloading supplies..

I am going to just hand some dehumidifier bags in there with them, I do the same thing in my gun safes..
http://www.amazon.com/Star-Brite-Han...umidifier+bags

longspurr · December 4, 2014, 08:43 PM

I would try to drop the humidity to about 35%. If there were no wooden gunstocks in the room I would suggest lower to 25%.

Corrosion needs oxygen & moisture to do its deed. I know of carbon steel tanks that have water spraying in them 24x7 for years yet they have far less rust than expected because of one thing. The atmosphere in the tanks is inert - less than 5% oxygen.

getting rid of either oxygen or moisture stops corrosion.

RKG · December 4, 2014, 11:09 PM

Riflemen: you might want to rethink storing loaded ammunition, smokeless powder, or primers in any container capable of holder pressure. You run the risk of turn a possible fire into a significant explosion.

skizzums · December 4, 2014, 11:46 PM

I get a little weird with mine. my "stockpile" ammo goes into my used powder cans with a re-activated silica packet, I have the load and bullet type written on the bottom of lid. figure they should be good for 50 years or so.

rebs · December 5, 2014, 09:35 AM

hopw do you reactivate silica packets ?

riflemen · December 5, 2014, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Riflemen: you might want to rethink storing loaded ammunition, smokeless powder, or primers in any container capable of holder pressure. You run the risk of turn a possible fire into a significant explosion.

I have considered this and I have read what saami has to say on the subject. First I thought I would relieve one of the interior walls as a blowout wall, so the pressure from an explosion would be much less, the blow out wall would fail and relieve the pressure, then I considered cutting a 2x4ft panel out of the rear and replacing it with a thinner metal bolted to the safe, 22 ga would not hold much pressure at all... But both of them ideas would destroy the safe, I can weld a new piece in to replace anything I take out, but who wants to deal with that?

So I just chose to ignore the potential issue, JK...

I am insulating the safe in and out and locating it in an area of the basement that is not in a huge fire risk, it is under a porch, 40 feet from anything really flammable, my basement is over 3000 sq ft, just cement walls... So in case of a fire it will have to be pretty serious to ignite this safe, also I am fireproofing the safe and it is now going to be double walled, a friend of mine who is a fire inspector went over the design with me, we are building a safe inside the safe, there is 3+ inches of air gap between the outside and inside we are building, that is also going to hold the rotating hardware for my shelfs...

I am also fireproofing it with a product called Technokontrol {probably spelling that wrong}, we are having some issues doing the door, but I am working on it, I am going to make the locking mechanism just 2 bolts, I have some machining to do but its not impossible, I originally figure on just removing some bolts, but it is way harder than that, lol...

I am in no hurry to finish it, just a project I am playing with, I have enough of the techno board {which is like bullet proof, fireproof, explosion resistant

} to do the inside and the outside, I am not doing the outside of the door, but trying to get double in the inside of it, not easy, so I think I am doing 1 layer of that with some fiber type fire resistant boiler liner insulation...

I even contemplated a few 20 gallon sprinkler tanks in the ceiling fed by the well pump with a vacuum release incase there was no water pressure {pretty simple the plastic melts and relieves the vacuum, which lets the water out, but my buddy who is the fire inspector said its a waste of time, 60 gallons of water is a joke compared to how hot it would have to be to make a difference, he said to just placard the entry ways and let the local fd know you have the safe there with some ammo in it...

Bozz10mm · December 5, 2014, 10:32 AM

I vacuum seal the ammo in the original carton and store it GI ammo cans with a couple of desiccant packs. Keeps it all nice and shiny for many years.

Jeff2131 · December 5, 2014, 11:05 AM

Silca packs.can be reactivated simply by "baking" out the moisture, some.change color to indicate they are ready to go.

Jeff Smith · February 13, 2015, 06:33 AM

+1 to Jeff2131
IMO, ammo will last quite a long time with minimal care. Informative video on point:
http://youtu.be/8IvGEx1cxbg

the led farmer · February 13, 2015, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKG

Riflemen: you might want to rethink storing loaded ammunition, smokeless powder, or primers in any container capable of holder pressure. You run the risk of turn a possible fire into a significant explosion.

Small arms ammunition is of no concern in a fire UNLESS it is in the chamber of a barrel where it will act as a if the trigger was pulled.. so says SAAMI and my personal experience as a ff.

http://youtu.be/3SlOXowwC4c

Primers and powder are somewhat of a different story, but unless the safe is welded air tight and loaded floor to ceiling i doubt there will be enough pressure built to cause concern. For a detonation to occur the rapidly expanding gasses must be contained until container failure occurs, and most safes are not built this way (hence the need for moisture control)

**Unclenick** · February 13, 2015, 04:24 PM

Desiccant "recharge" (actually discharging its water content) is done by baking at temperatures that differ with the desiccant and often with the covering the pouches are made from. A lot come in Tyvek pouches and the temperature is limited by what will melt them. The desiccant maker web sites almost always have the time and temperature for the particular product. Unfortunately, at Tyvek-safe temperatures this takes a long time and often doesn't get as much water out as a higher temperature can.

I like to make my own. One of the most common mil-spec desiccants is montmorillonite clay. One form of bentonite essentially matches it. The difference in names comes from where the clay is mined. One form of oil absorbent sold by both Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts is the same clay. Autozone also sells a 33 pound bag for $8, if you really want that much. Be careful you get the Safety Sorb and not the same company's Super Sorb, which is made out of something else entirely. STP Oil Absorbent appears to the the same thing, but I can't find an MSDS for it to verify this.

Spread the clay out on a clean cookie sheet and bake it at 450°F for about an hour. Use a metal funnel to pour it into a sealable metal can (empty paint can from Lowe's is good) and let it cool. Put as much as you need into the bottom of a small paper bag and tape it shut. For larger containers i scoop about a cup into the bottom of a paper wine bottle bag, then roll it up and put a couple of rubber bands around it to keep the dust in. Moisture will migrate through the paper and into the clay. I'd guess a couple of weeks are needed to get full effect.

Temperature is the main issue with storing gunpowder for long periods, and this is true whether it is inside a cartridge case or a factory container. The cooler you can keep it, the longer it lasts. Some powders are moisture sensitive and some are not. It depends on additives. Alliant has a sample of Unique that is over 100 years old and they store it under water. Periodically they dry some out and test it, and so far, it still performs as it originally did. If you tried that with some rifle powders, the deterrents and stabilizers would dissolve out, leaving you with a faster burning—perhaps much faster burning and therefore dangerous—shorter-lived powder when it was dried out again.

For stored ammo, you can size cases for a finger slip fit of the bullet at the mouth and seal primers and apply pitch inside the mouth the way the military does, then charge and store the charged cases in a tray in a sealed container with desiccant for I gradually concluded the smart thing was not to store its any differently from any other ammo, but do mark the ammo cans by age, then when you practice with the same load, put the new loads in and take the same quantity of oldest ammo out and use it.

wogpotter · February 13, 2015, 05:29 PM

Why not just put the open, empty cans in till they reach equilibrium with the room humidity, then fill & seal them? Probably 24~48 hours is all it would take.

Thinking about it logically my ammo cans have about an 85~95% volume filled by ammo, leaving just 5~15% for "atmosphere" anyway.

**44 AMP** · February 14, 2015, 09:00 PM

Unless the cans were wet inside, I don't think it would take anywhere near 24hrs, let alone 48. More like a matter of minutes, at the outside.

If the air in the room is ok, then the air in the can when you close it will be ok, too. It's really that simple. If you keep it from temperature changes, condensation will not occur.

A dessicant pack is extra insurance, and something for when you close cans in higher humidity atmospheres (like the 80% plus common in the south and east).

Do take note of the thread about low humidity and static electricity during reloading, as well.

Out of direct sunlight, temperature controlled, not dripping wet (although some nations store their small arms ammo under water) and it will likely last longer than you do.

rebs · February 15, 2015, 07:13 AM

what size ammo cans do you guys use for storing your ammo ?
I have a large one for 223 and thinking maybe a small one for 45 acp.

wogpotter · February 15, 2015, 10:39 AM

Probably not, but I was allowing a big safety margin for the nervous.

Bottom Gun · February 15, 2015, 11:58 AM

I vacuum seal GI ammo cans the easy way. I make sure the can has a good gasket to seal properly then I fill the can with ammo I want to store. When the can is full, I put it out in the sun for a while to heat up. I let it heat until it's slightly uncomfortable to the touch. Then I simply close the can and store it. When the can and the ammo inside cool, it will create a vacuum seal. Sometimes I'll include a desiccant pack but I don't think it's necessary.
You can get varying degrees of vacuum depending upon the amount of heat so you'll have to experiment a bit. You'll hear the satisfying inrush of air when you crack the seal on the can when you do it properly.
NOTE: This method may also make the ammo cans harder to open since you have to overcome the vacuum.

mikld · February 15, 2015, 12:22 PM

Bunch of good ideas, but, FWIW, I have been shooting military surplus ammo, produced in the 60s without any duds. I purchase them in loose 200 round plastic bags. These are re-packs and I have no idea how they were packaged prior to my getting them. So far my M1 has digested 400+ of these without a hick-up.

My reloads go in either zip-lok bags or plastic boxes, and most in GI ammo cans, nothing special. I just shot some .44 Mag, lead bullet reloads assembled in '90 quite successfully. Most of these reloads are put together within one-two miles of the ocean and at super rainy Oregon coast. No problems...

Sport45 · February 17, 2015, 06:44 AM

My ammunition has all the degradable components sealed inside a brass case with the interference fit of the bullet and primer. No additional sealing is needed. They live in my house to avoid unnecessary temperature swings.

That said, the degradable components continue to degrade regardless...

full case load · February 17, 2015, 08:56 AM

I've had some of mine buried on end in 4 inch X 4 foot PVC tubes since the Clinton years. Dig one up every now and then and have had no failures. (Hard to remember where they all are though).

hartcreek · February 17, 2015, 09:37 AM

The lengths that some of you guys go to with you ammo......I posted a link earler this year where a group tested ammunition. They drove over it with a crawler tractor nothing went off. They set up ammo and shot it and they had to hit primers to set rounds off finally they set piles of ammunition on fire and as long as you were twenty feet away and wearing a standard fire fighters coat helmet and Eye pro you would be unharmed. The final step they set a tractor trailers trailer on fire and filmed the debris only showering out that same twenty feet. It just aint that big a deal. Just keep that ammo is a reasonably good storage place away from extremes and it will last more then fifty years.

I was bear hunting this year with ammo I loaded myself more then twenty year ago. I have no reservations about it.

Garycw · March 1, 2015, 09:12 PM

I have ammo that used to be my grandpaws, over 100 years old that still works. I've also seen much much newer ammo that was so corroded I'd be afraid of it.
Ideally I try to store mine in airtight ammo cans with a desiccant pack. I make the packs out of ever dri from hobby lobby placed in coffee filters.

December 2, 2014, 06:20 PM	#1
Puma prepper Member Join Date: October 7, 2014 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 20	Storing ammo long term ( help ) Hi all, I have recently made a Gun / Ammo room with all my guns, ammo and accessories in it. With a dehumidifier i keep the room at 45% humidity, good for guns and ammo? My biggest question is i decided to put all my stored ammo on a shelf in the room instead of being in the ammo cans. I figure it would be fine being that the humidity is low. Im thinking this is a better idea vs sealing moisture in the can every time i open and shut it. Let me know your thoughts, thanks

December 2, 2014, 06:49 PM	#2
Jeff2131 Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Spring City, PA Posts: 497	Ammo can with a seal, toss in.a couple descecant bags and that ammo will out last you. No need to get all crazy with it, there have been a ton of topics on here regarding this.subject matter and many many agree that unless youre storing it in bad conditions, youll be just fine with most peoples very simple suggestions. __________________ ---I DON'T DIAL 911---

December 2, 2014, 07:07 PM	#4
Nick_C_S Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2013 Location: Idaho Posts: 5,522	You might be over-thinking it a little. I believe that either choice will work just fine. But I do follow your line of logic: If the air in the room is "good" (proper temp/humidity), why not allow it to circulate around your ammo? A lot of people wish they had your "problem." If it were me, I'd keep the ammo in the cans, but open the cans now and then to exchange the air. In either case, you're ammo is likely to last for decades. Well done. __________________ Gun control laws benefit only criminals and politicians - but then, I repeat myself. Life Member, National Rifle Association

December 4, 2014, 11:46 PM	#8
skizzums Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2013 Location: Douglasville, Ga Posts: 4,615	I get a little weird with mine. my "stockpile" ammo goes into my used powder cans with a re-activated silica packet, I have the load and bullet type written on the bottom of lid. figure they should be good for 50 years or so. __________________ My head is bloody, but unbowed

December 5, 2014, 11:05 AM	#12
Jeff2131 Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Spring City, PA Posts: 497	Silca packs.can be reactivated simply by "baking" out the moisture, some.change color to indicate they are ready to go. __________________ ---I DON'T DIAL 911---

December 2, 2014, 07:01 PM	#3
firewrench044 Senior Member Join Date: July 9, 2007 Location: Fort Pierce, Florida Posts: 381	My long term storage is- (223 ) 100 rounds per Quart freezer bag 4 freezer bags in vacuum sealed freezer bag (200 rounds ) 4 freezer bags in a 50 cal ammo box 800 rounds ) cans labeled larger cartridges there are less per ammo can as some are used the rest are still sealed

December 2, 2014, 07:12 PM	#5
riflemen Junior member Join Date: November 18, 2014 Posts: 259	I am in the middle of setting up an ammo safe, I scored a 53 gun safe for $200 Its a browning sporting model normal price is over $2000, but this one has been in a flood, I emptied it out and Im going to build some horizontal rotating shelves for holding ammo, powder and all my reloading supplies.. I am going to just hand some dehumidifier bags in there with them, I do the same thing in my gun safes.. http://www.amazon.com/Star-Brite-Han...umidifier+bags

December 4, 2014, 08:43 PM	#6
longspurr Senior Member Join Date: November 8, 2002 Location: On the western shore Posts: 182	I would try to drop the humidity to about 35%. If there were no wooden gunstocks in the room I would suggest lower to 25%. Corrosion needs oxygen & moisture to do its deed. I know of carbon steel tanks that have water spraying in them 24x7 for years yet they have far less rust than expected because of one thing. The atmosphere in the tanks is inert - less than 5% oxygen. getting rid of either oxygen or moisture stops corrosion.

December 4, 2014, 11:09 PM	#7
RKG Senior Member Join Date: June 18, 2009 Location: Boston Posts: 562	Riflemen: you might want to rethink storing loaded ammunition, smokeless powder, or primers in any container capable of holder pressure. You run the risk of turn a possible fire into a significant explosion.

December 5, 2014, 09:35 AM	#9
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	hopw do you reactivate silica packets ?

December 5, 2014, 10:32 AM	#11
Bozz10mm Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 2013 Location: Central Texas Posts: 287	I vacuum seal the ammo in the original carton and store it GI ammo cans with a couple of desiccant packs. Keeps it all nice and shiny for many years.

February 13, 2015, 06:33 AM	#13
Jeff Smith Junior Member Join Date: February 12, 2015 Posts: 1	Ammo Care +1 to Jeff2131 IMO, ammo will last quite a long time with minimal care. Informative video on point: http://youtu.be/8IvGEx1cxbg

February 13, 2015, 04:24 PM	#15
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	Desiccant "recharge" (actually discharging its water content) is done by baking at temperatures that differ with the desiccant and often with the covering the pouches are made from. A lot come in Tyvek pouches and the temperature is limited by what will melt them. The desiccant maker web sites almost always have the time and temperature for the particular product. Unfortunately, at Tyvek-safe temperatures this takes a long time and often doesn't get as much water out as a higher temperature can. I like to make my own. One of the most common mil-spec desiccants is montmorillonite clay. One form of bentonite essentially matches it. The difference in names comes from where the clay is mined. One form of oil absorbent sold by both Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts is the same clay. Autozone also sells a 33 pound bag for $8, if you really want that much. Be careful you get the Safety Sorb and not the same company's Super Sorb, which is made out of something else entirely. STP Oil Absorbent appears to the the same thing, but I can't find an MSDS for it to verify this. Spread the clay out on a clean cookie sheet and bake it at 450°F for about an hour. Use a metal funnel to pour it into a sealable metal can (empty paint can from Lowe's is good) and let it cool. Put as much as you need into the bottom of a small paper bag and tape it shut. For larger containers i scoop about a cup into the bottom of a paper wine bottle bag, then roll it up and put a couple of rubber bands around it to keep the dust in. Moisture will migrate through the paper and into the clay. I'd guess a couple of weeks are needed to get full effect. Temperature is the main issue with storing gunpowder for long periods, and this is true whether it is inside a cartridge case or a factory container. The cooler you can keep it, the longer it lasts. Some powders are moisture sensitive and some are not. It depends on additives. Alliant has a sample of Unique that is over 100 years old and they store it under water. Periodically they dry some out and test it, and so far, it still performs as it originally did. If you tried that with some rifle powders, the deterrents and stabilizers would dissolve out, leaving you with a faster burning—perhaps much faster burning and therefore dangerous—shorter-lived powder when it was dried out again. For stored ammo, you can size cases for a finger slip fit of the bullet at the mouth and seal primers and apply pitch inside the mouth the way the military does, then charge and store the charged cases in a tray in a sealed container with desiccant for I gradually concluded the smart thing was not to store its any differently from any other ammo, but do mark the ammo cans by age, then when you practice with the same load, put the new loads in and take the same quantity of oldest ammo out and use it. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

February 13, 2015, 05:29 PM	#16
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	Why not just put the open, empty cans in till they reach equilibrium with the room humidity, then fill & seal them? Probably 24~48 hours is all it would take. Thinking about it logically my ammo cans have about an 85~95% volume filled by ammo, leaving just 5~15% for "atmosphere" anyway. __________________ Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

February 14, 2015, 09:00 PM	#17
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,818	Unless the cans were wet inside, I don't think it would take anywhere near 24hrs, let alone 48. More like a matter of minutes, at the outside. If the air in the room is ok, then the air in the can when you close it will be ok, too. It's really that simple. If you keep it from temperature changes, condensation will not occur. A dessicant pack is extra insurance, and something for when you close cans in higher humidity atmospheres (like the 80% plus common in the south and east). Do take note of the thread about low humidity and static electricity during reloading, as well. Out of direct sunlight, temperature controlled, not dripping wet (although some nations store their small arms ammo under water) and it will likely last longer than you do. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

February 15, 2015, 07:13 AM	#18
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	what size ammo cans do you guys use for storing your ammo ? I have a large one for 223 and thinking maybe a small one for 45 acp.

February 15, 2015, 10:39 AM	#19
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 4,811	Probably not, but I was allowing a big safety margin for the nervous. __________________ Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

February 15, 2015, 11:58 AM	#20
Bottom Gun Senior Member Join Date: October 13, 1998 Location: Arizona Territory Posts: 1,092	I vacuum seal GI ammo cans the easy way. I make sure the can has a good gasket to seal properly then I fill the can with ammo I want to store. When the can is full, I put it out in the sun for a while to heat up. I let it heat until it's slightly uncomfortable to the touch. Then I simply close the can and store it. When the can and the ammo inside cool, it will create a vacuum seal. Sometimes I'll include a desiccant pack but I don't think it's necessary. You can get varying degrees of vacuum depending upon the amount of heat so you'll have to experiment a bit. You'll hear the satisfying inrush of air when you crack the seal on the can when you do it properly. NOTE: This method may also make the ammo cans harder to open since you have to overcome the vacuum. __________________ NRA Life Member Mechanical engineers have their moments.

February 15, 2015, 12:22 PM	#21
mikld Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2009 Location: Southern Oregon! Posts: 2,891	Bunch of good ideas, but, FWIW, I have been shooting military surplus ammo, produced in the 60s without any duds. I purchase them in loose 200 round plastic bags. These are re-packs and I have no idea how they were packaged prior to my getting them. So far my M1 has digested 400+ of these without a hick-up. My reloads go in either zip-lok bags or plastic boxes, and most in GI ammo cans, nothing special. I just shot some .44 Mag, lead bullet reloads assembled in '90 quite successfully. Most of these reloads are put together within one-two miles of the ocean and at super rainy Oregon coast. No problems... __________________ My Anchor is holding fast! I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...

February 17, 2015, 06:44 AM	#22
Sport45 Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 1999 Location: Too close to Houston Posts: 4,196	My ammunition has all the degradable components sealed inside a brass case with the interference fit of the bullet and primer. No additional sealing is needed. They live in my house to avoid unnecessary temperature swings. That said, the degradable components continue to degrade regardless... __________________ Proud member of the NRA and Texas State Rifle Association. Registered and active voter.

February 17, 2015, 08:56 AM	#23
full case load Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2010 Posts: 166	I've had some of mine buried on end in 4 inch X 4 foot PVC tubes since the Clinton years. Dig one up every now and then and have had no failures. (Hard to remember where they all are though). __________________ live and let live

February 17, 2015, 09:37 AM	#24
hartcreek Junior member Join Date: April 22, 2014 Location: Washington Posts: 1,549	The lengths that some of you guys go to with you ammo......I posted a link earler this year where a group tested ammunition. They drove over it with a crawler tractor nothing went off. They set up ammo and shot it and they had to hit primers to set rounds off finally they set piles of ammunition on fire and as long as you were twenty feet away and wearing a standard fire fighters coat helmet and Eye pro you would be unharmed. The final step they set a tractor trailers trailer on fire and filmed the debris only showering out that same twenty feet. It just aint that big a deal. Just keep that ammo is a reasonably good storage place away from extremes and it will last more then fifty years. I was bear hunting this year with ammo I loaded myself more then twenty year ago. I have no reservations about it.

March 1, 2015, 09:12 PM	#25
Garycw Senior Member Join Date: May 27, 2011 Location: Ohio-Kentucky - florida Posts: 1,221	I have ammo that used to be my grandpaws, over 100 years old that still works. I've also seen much much newer ammo that was so corroded I'd be afraid of it. Ideally I try to store mine in airtight ammo cans with a desiccant pack. I make the packs out of ever dri from hobby lobby placed in coffee filters.