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Old November 16, 2009, 11:24 AM   #1
shawnt97
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Join Date: November 14, 2009
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LT-308 problem

Ok, I'm new to reloading and have ran into an issue on reloading for my DPMS Tac-20. I'm using RCBS short base dies on a Lee classic press. About 1/3 of my reloads stick in the chamber. It's so bad I have to pull and hold charging handle back and slam butt of the rifle on the ground to send the bolt back. Charging handle is held back to prevent bolt from going forward and lodging again. Bolt seems to be just shy of seating all the way. I just have a hard time figuring out why it's about 1 in 3 that do this. I like to think I'm pretty consistent in my reloading process. Any ideas guys?
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Old November 16, 2009, 11:51 AM   #2
Unclenick
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A couple of other members have had this problem with cases not fired in their guns originally. Were these fired in your gun originally?
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Old November 16, 2009, 12:26 PM   #3
rottieman33
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Friend of mine has a colt ar-15 .223 cal he read that you need to keep the action on that well lubed. If it is dry you maybe binding up the bolt when it gets hot. As he told me it needs to look wet.
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Old November 16, 2009, 01:53 PM   #4
Winterhawk56
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I agree with rottieman33 about lub of the bolt! the bolt should have an oil film visible but on another note I would check the following;

1. Measure the chamber and ensure your bullet is seated deep enough in the case and not touching the throat.

2. Is your die correct as I have had some issues with the re-size die in the past. Granted minimal but an issue non the less. My RCBS resize die for my .308 was off just a few 1000's at the shoulder and caused a tight fit. My resolution was once they were fired (in that gun) I neck sized only. Also bought another set of dies.

3. Last but not least, check the face of the bolt and ensure nothing is causing the jam such as the ejector spring clip, debris or the bolt face diameter (inside) is per specification. Steel expands a little when heated and the clerance could be impaired enough to not allow the shell/case butt to fit proper in the bolt.

Other than that perhaps others have more suggestions? Good luck and if you find the problem please shareas we may see this again.

Ralph
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Old November 16, 2009, 02:31 PM   #5
Gaxicus
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Probably applicable: DPMS 308 Lake City Brass

Given that I dont know how new the gun is and the brass you are using and other stuff, I'll just post some some points about my experience loading for my DPMS.

I have a DPMS LR-308 that really didnt like some Australian Milsurp. Wouldnt chamber right, wouldnt eject, etc. I believe there is a warning on DPMSs website about some milsurp cartridges that are a no-go.

After going through the gun a few times, I bought some commercial winchester to shoot before making any harsh decisions about my new gun. The commercial stuff, 3 different kinds, went through it like butta.

I think DPMS chambers are a lot tighter than most self loading rifles you're likely to run into. My L1A1 would pretty much chamber my car keys it was so open.

Are your dies carbide? for 7.62x51 or for 308? ( I know you say 308 in your post but its worth asking again)? I shoot Lake City brass with no problem after it gets sized with my RCBS Short Base non-carbide 308 Die. (I cut the crimp myself using Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer chucked in a hand drill).

While I would recommend using a little case lube while reloading carbide or not with military brass, I wouldnt recommend too much gun lube. Dirty powders can gunk everything up pretty badly and the lube can act like glue. Not the way to break in a new gun.

My DPMS was persnickitty at first but after a proper break in it shoots better than any self loader I have ever run into. Amazingly accurate with no feeding or ejection problems at all.

Break it in right with some clean burning cheap loads. Lot of people argue about proper barrel break in methods or whether its even worth it. I do it for the action as much as the barrel.

I clean the action every 50 rounds during break in and dont use very much lube at all.
I swab the barrel with sweets and patch to clean and dry every round until 80 then swabbed every 5 after that to about 150 or so. Cleaning puts a lot of wear on your barrel so get a good coated one piece rod with a guide. I would not recommend moly coated bullets. I use about 50 of them in a second barrel break in (its actually just a good cleaning) after about 550 rounds but the barrel is spotless and hit with a patch of sweets and patched dry between shots. Its arguable whether this is necessary but I do it.

I like 4064. Max is at 43.5-44.2 grains behind a 168 grain AMAX in a standard Lake City case. It is hard to go wrong with those AMAX bullets. They consistently outperformed the expensive Barnes TSX in my gun. Going a bit hot worked really well but I started getting pressure signs and backed off. Military brass is thicker and you get higher pressures with less powder so don't just go with what the book says. You are likely to end up in the middle of the books charging range at most.

With your shorter barrel, 4895 might be a good powder to try but 4064 sure works well. If you shoot in extreme weather, maybe varget but I havent had very much luck with it so far. (I am early in the process of working with varget in 308).

I realize that I shotgunned your question with whatever was rolling around in my head but you will probably find a few tidbits in there that are useful.

Please post back with what you came up with.

Last edited by Gaxicus; November 16, 2009 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Clarity and safety
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