January 21, 2010, 06:41 PM | #1 |
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mauser bolt conversion
I would like to convert my strait bolt mauser to a bent bolt. What is the easiest/cheapest way to go about doing this?
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January 21, 2010, 06:46 PM | #2 |
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Easiest? How heavy is your truck ?
For more constructive help, check http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=389790
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January 22, 2010, 12:02 AM | #3 |
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I just finished a Mauser job and bent the bolt my self. First cut 4/5ths through the bolt arm in the square section right next to the bolt body, then heat it with a propane torch to let it bend easier, bend to the angel you want and fill the gap with weld. A little grinding and polishing and your done. Take the firing pin and spring out and rap the bolt bolt body with some kind of tape to keep weld spatter off it. Here's some pics. sorry don't have any of the work in progress just the finished bolt.
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January 22, 2010, 12:15 AM | #4 |
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Any time you apply enough heat to a bolt to soften the steel make sure you use a heat sink inside the bolt and also wet cloths to protect the locking lugs.
Ken K's method will work. Other ways are to forge down the bolt handle (the method I prefer but which involves special equipment), cutting off the old handle and welding a new one on, or cutting off the old handle and drilling and tapping the bolt to screw the new handle on. I consider the last to be the least desireable because it does not (IMHO) look good, though it will work. Jim |
January 22, 2010, 09:36 AM | #5 |
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When I did mine I was only heating a thin strip of metal that I didn't cut through, about 1/8th in. thick and I could still hold the bolt by the face end. Same with the welding as all the heat was at the handle.
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January 24, 2010, 02:12 AM | #6 |
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I use a hybrid between Ken's approach and Jim's ... I cut about a third of the way through and then heat and bend ... I don't fill anything, but rathefr use a file (after some initial grinding) to remove the material I don't want. Half of the original thickness seems to be more than enough. BUT ... Keep in mind that while you certainly want to keep the bolt lugs cool, you also need to keep the back end of the bolt body (where the cocking surface engages the firing pin assembly) cool. This was Jim's point when he mentioined using a heat sink there.
My experience is to use as much heat as quickly as possible to keep the whole thing from getting hot! Saands |
January 31, 2010, 11:35 AM | #7 |
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Jack Belk, former president of the gunsmith guild, has a photo album of Mauser bolt welding:
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...9476lSEOHaRuPs This is after he gets the knob back from the engraver: http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...28237237jVNSyX Here are some pics of my brother TIG welding Braz VZ24 and 91/30 bolt handles for me. |
January 31, 2010, 03:03 PM | #8 |
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i did the same thing with my mosin nagant except i cut the bolt handle clean off then bent and welded 3/8 round stock to the bolt then welded the original ball to the end of the bolt
mine is nowhere as clean as these other guys jobs, but it works well for a $80 rifle i originally tried the ATI tap style, but im known for breaking taps off
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