Dumb mistake Loading 223

[roc1]

I just loaded 223 75 grain with W748 21.7 gr that's ok then I switched to 50 gr bullets and I looked at manual thought it said 21.7 was ok loaded some then realized I looked at wrong data it shows 22.9 gr lowest load which means these are to lite for AR but will they work in my Remington bolt gun without having squib loads or am I going to have to pull em? Trying to save lot of work with kinectic hammer
Thanks
Roc1

[Unclenick]

Personally, I'd bite the bullet, so to speak, and pull the loads down. The Hodgdon site says even 26 grains of 748 only hits about 80% of MAP with a 50 grain bullet. When I tweak QuickLOAD to match that by adjusting case capacity a little, I find a 21.7 grain load producing under 25,000 psi and a muzzle velocity of about 2650 fps (24" tube).

That sounds serviceable, but when you take a spherical propellant's pressure down that low, it burns dirty and inconsistently. It can also cause a funny phenomenon where the powder starts lighting and gets a light bullet moving fast enough that the expansion is quicker than the speed at which the gas is being made by the burn, dropping the pressure enough that the bullet momentarily slows down. In the now-larger burn volume, each inch of bullet travel represents a smaller powder burn space expansion percentage than it did back near the throat, so the powder starts building burn pressure back up. It winds up firing the rest of the charge and its mass forward into the base of the slow bullet, which is a little like hitting a barrel obstruction. Upon collision with the bullet, there is a lot of momentary radial pressure local to the bullet base. This has been known to ring barrels.

I'm not saying it will happen for sure; just that I wouldn't do it in my rifle, just in case. Usually it happens at about 18 to 20 inches down the bore, so a rifle with a 16" barrel may not experience it.

If you want a quick way to pull a lot of rounds, invest in a Hornady Cam-Lock tool and the appropriate collet.

[roc1]

Thanks I will pull em need new puller my old one is wore out over the years.
How do the camlock pullers work talking bout pullers?
Thanks again
Roc1

[roc1]

My Ar is 16" barrel both of them

[Unclenick]

Well, I wouldn't shoot it in the AR because the poor combustion may put a lot of crud through the gas system. So you'd need a short bolt gun.

The Cam-Lock puller screws into the die threads on your press, and has a collet that grasps the bullet of a cartridge in the shell holder and raised into position. Once the collet is closed, you lower the ram to pull the bullet. To that extent is is the same as the RCBS and Forster types. The difference is in how the collet closes. The other two require you to turn a handle like the one in a tap wrench and tighten it to close the collet. The Cam-Lock has a single lever you flip 90° to close the collet. It's faster and easier on your wrist than the RCBS and Forster types. It is way, way faster than the inertial pullers. Basically, insert round in shell holder, run ram up, bring Cam-Lock lever down, lower ram to pull bullet, put hand under collet and raise the lever to drop the bullet into your hand.

Someone probably has a YouTube clip of it operating.

[roc1]

Rcbs works good to I guess
Thanks

[Unclenick]

As I said, the RCBS is much slower. Also harder to use. I've had, at least with military ammo¹, some that it just wouldn't pull because I couldn't turn the handle hard enough to get enough grip. The Cam-Lock has more mechanical advantage. It does cost more, though.



¹The general trick with military stuff is to seat the bullet a little deeper to crack the pitch seal, but with some that has put the bullet down too far for the collet to find good purchase.