22rf Handgun vs sword/spear/axe? 22rf Rifle vs bow/crossbow/sling?

Glamdring · March 27, 2001, 09:26 AM

Was kicking around some ideas for writing a novel the other day. Was thinking about weapons one might pick for "survival" or roughing it deep in the woods.

I have always thought that slings or bows were a much better choice for survival type hunting/killing of game. Since you can make arrows or use rocks [sling ammo], while even 22 ammo would run out sooner or later.

But I got to thinking which would be my choice to face Goblins with. Think I would rather have a bow for long range along with a DA 22 Revolver [S&W 317 would be my choice] for emergencies [ie too weak or injured to use bow or fend off some knife wielding Goblin] plus a hatchet/tomahawk.

Questions?
Comments?

Doc Hudson · March 27, 2001, 10:21 AM

Personally, I am not good enough with a sling to use it for small game. I doubt if I could hit a target smaller than an old Datsun 210. Using a bow for small game, squirrels and such is going to be mighty wasteful of arrows and those suckers ain't easy to make fly properly.

A good blowgun and a five gallon bucket of good store bough darts would be fine small game killers, with a large supply of ammo on hand.

For defense against two legged attackers, that is a different story, unless you are good at cooking up organic poisons for your darts.

I'd really like to have a six-gun on my hip, preferably .357 Magnum or larger, but I could make do with a sword and buckler, with a good dirk or war axe as a backup.

My wrists are not up to the fancy swordplay needed with a light sticker like a rapier so I'd want a good medium heavy sword of moderate length, something between a Model 1840 Artillery Short Sword and a two-handed sword. I'd want a blade at least 30" long, 2" wide and at least one fourth to three eights of an inch thick at the spine, either straight or with a very gentle curve. Double edged would be acceptable but not mandatory. I'd prefer a simple hilt wit ah enough length that both hands could be used if needed, and with a fairly simple cross guard.

For a fighting dagger, I'd want a straight double edged stiletto design with a good cross hilt , semi-knuckle bow and a sword breaker notch. Blade should be 12" to 16" in length.

For a war axe, I'd want something with a bit more style than the camp axe used to chop firewood. Not so large and heavy as a battle axe but a bit heavier than an Indian style tomahawk. The Blackwatch used to issue a fighting axe with a cutting blade on one side and a spike on the other. One of that style with a six or eight inch cutting blade and a four inch spike made from good steel and mounted on a light metal of good hickory handle should be nearly perfect.

I'd want the buckler to be somewhat larger than the traditional targe, but smaller than a full shield. Round, about 30" in diameter and light. Thin Oak covered in cuir bouile, and bound with a good metal rim stout enough to turn a heavy cut. Add a spiked metal boss to the center and have my crest carved or painted on the front and I'd be ready to repel boarders.

Of course if you gave me time to make a cuir bouile breast plate, greaves, vambrace, and helm, I'd really be ready.

Doc Hudson

March 27, 2001, 09:26 AM	#1
Glamdring Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2000 Location: MN Posts: 1,388	Was kicking around some ideas for writing a novel the other day. Was thinking about weapons one might pick for "survival" or roughing it deep in the woods. I have always thought that slings or bows were a much better choice for survival type hunting/killing of game. Since you can make arrows or use rocks [sling ammo], while even 22 ammo would run out sooner or later. But I got to thinking which would be my choice to face Goblins with. Think I would rather have a bow for long range along with a DA 22 Revolver [S&W 317 would be my choice] for emergencies [ie too weak or injured to use bow or fend off some knife wielding Goblin] plus a hatchet/tomahawk. Questions? Comments?

March 27, 2001, 10:21 AM	#2
Doc Hudson Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2001 Location: Mississippi Delta Posts: 635	Personally, I am not good enough with a sling to use it for small game. I doubt if I could hit a target smaller than an old Datsun 210. Using a bow for small game, squirrels and such is going to be mighty wasteful of arrows and those suckers ain't easy to make fly properly. A good blowgun and a five gallon bucket of good store bough darts would be fine small game killers, with a large supply of ammo on hand. For defense against two legged attackers, that is a different story, unless you are good at cooking up organic poisons for your darts. I'd really like to have a six-gun on my hip, preferably .357 Magnum or larger, but I could make do with a sword and buckler, with a good dirk or war axe as a backup. My wrists are not up to the fancy swordplay needed with a light sticker like a rapier so I'd want a good medium heavy sword of moderate length, something between a Model 1840 Artillery Short Sword and a two-handed sword. I'd want a blade at least 30" long, 2" wide and at least one fourth to three eights of an inch thick at the spine, either straight or with a very gentle curve. Double edged would be acceptable but not mandatory. I'd prefer a simple hilt wit ah enough length that both hands could be used if needed, and with a fairly simple cross guard. For a fighting dagger, I'd want a straight double edged stiletto design with a good cross hilt , semi-knuckle bow and a sword breaker notch. Blade should be 12" to 16" in length. For a war axe, I'd want something with a bit more style than the camp axe used to chop firewood. Not so large and heavy as a battle axe but a bit heavier than an Indian style tomahawk. The Blackwatch used to issue a fighting axe with a cutting blade on one side and a spike on the other. One of that style with a six or eight inch cutting blade and a four inch spike made from good steel and mounted on a light metal of good hickory handle should be nearly perfect. I'd want the buckler to be somewhat larger than the traditional targe, but smaller than a full shield. Round, about 30" in diameter and light. Thin Oak covered in cuir bouile, and bound with a good metal rim stout enough to turn a heavy cut. Add a spiked metal boss to the center and have my crest carved or painted on the front and I'd be ready to repel boarders. Of course if you gave me time to make a cuir bouile breast plate, greaves, vambrace, and helm, I'd really be ready. Doc Hudson