260 rem how to ?

kidako · August 30, 2012, 01:14 PM

I am new to reloading , I have reloaded 308,243, starting 22 250.
I just ordered a tikka T3 260 Rem. 23 3/4 barrel 1 in 8 twist

MY question is what do I need to open up the neck on my 243 brass to make in 260 rem ? a re sizing mandrel or 243 neck expander die ?

What are some good loads and bullets (will be used for target and white tail ) out to 5 to 600 yards,maybe for yotes if I get tired of my t3 Sporter 22 250

thanks Steve

Brian Pfleuger · August 30, 2012, 01:26 PM

You do what you want, but if it were me, "forming the brass would be easy...

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?sortby...ensionid=6210&

kidako · August 30, 2012, 01:44 PM

Yes up here 50 rounds rem brass 39.99 plus taxes. I have 400 rounds of once fired 243 brass,( I did buy one bag)

Just read a post who said just lube the 243 brass and 260 rem FL die then . re size then cut to size

GeauxTide · August 30, 2012, 07:44 PM

I thought the same thing when I bought my first 260. 243 brass is longer that 260. 2.0449 vs. 2.035. My 243 brass was 2.050. Bought 260 brass from then.

GeauxTide · August 30, 2012, 07:46 PM

I like RL19 with 120gr Nosler and Speer. And, of course, the wonderful 125 Partition.

Clark · August 30, 2012, 09:22 PM

My 260 brass schpeal:

a) The problem with 243 necked up to 260 is the thick shoulder that turns into neck makes a "donut" at the base of the neck that beats up long bullets seated down that far. The internet is full of complicated schemes to cut out the "donut".
b) Using 260 brass in SAAMI 260 chambers works the neck a little more than desirable.
c) Necking down 7mm-08 brass for 260 is what many think is the best.
d) Necking down 308 brass for 260 works most of the time, but with occasional high pressure events.
The SAAMI drawing for the 260 chamber is .299"+.002" at the rear of the neck and .298" +.002" at the front of the neck. I have found my Douglas factory 260 chamber to be a go with a .298" at the front and go with a .299" pin gauge at the rear. Run 308 brass though a 260 FL die. Seat the bullet all the way to the base of the neck. Measure the OD of the neck. They mostly seem to be .299", but a very few are .300".
e) I have been turning necks on Lapua palma 308 brass for 260. I want the higher strength small Boxer primer pocket for higher pressure. The flash holes are small, but I have not been drilling them, but instead turned down a decapping pin to .060".

kidako · September 2, 2012, 01:06 PM

Thanks ,I do have lots o 308 brass. I will wait until I pick up my 260 (maybe another bag of 260 brass).

tobnpr · September 4, 2012, 07:48 AM

Brass is (for most calibers) the cheapest part of precision loading.

You say you're new to handloading...suggest you just buy the .260 brass and concentrate on learning to load, rather than "DIY" brass. JMO....

603Country · September 4, 2012, 09:11 AM

Get the Nosler 260 brass and there's no handloader type prep work required, other than just adding primer, powder, and bullet. I've bought a lot of the Nosler brass and so far have found only one case with an imperfection.

wncchester · September 4, 2012, 01:06 PM

I doubt you'll find any difference in loading for a .260 even if it's to be fired in a Tikka.

If you must reform cases it's easier and provides better necks to work down; just use .308 (or 7-08) cases and run them into your .260 sizer.

I could give you my load but if you used it you would only be loading for my rifle, you really need to find what will work best for your's.

August 30, 2012, 01:14 PM	#1
kidako Junior Member Join Date: September 25, 2011 Posts: 8	260 rem how to ? I am new to reloading , I have reloaded 308,243, starting 22 250. I just ordered a tikka T3 260 Rem. 23 3/4 barrel 1 in 8 twist MY question is what do I need to open up the neck on my 243 brass to make in 260 rem ? a re sizing mandrel or 243 neck expander die ? What are some good loads and bullets (will be used for target and white tail ) out to 5 to 600 yards,maybe for yotes if I get tired of my t3 Sporter 22 250 thanks Steve

August 30, 2012, 01:26 PM	#2
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	You do what you want, but if it were me, "forming the brass would be easy... http://www.midwayusa.com/find?sortby...ensionid=6210& __________________ Nobody plans to screw up their lives... ...they just don't plan not to. -Andy Stanley

August 30, 2012, 09:22 PM	#6
Clark Senior Member Join Date: December 4, 1999 Location: WA, the ever blue state Posts: 4,678	My 260 brass schpeal: a) The problem with 243 necked up to 260 is the thick shoulder that turns into neck makes a "donut" at the base of the neck that beats up long bullets seated down that far. The internet is full of complicated schemes to cut out the "donut". b) Using 260 brass in SAAMI 260 chambers works the neck a little more than desirable. c) Necking down 7mm-08 brass for 260 is what many think is the best. d) Necking down 308 brass for 260 works most of the time, but with occasional high pressure events. The SAAMI drawing for the 260 chamber is .299"+.002" at the rear of the neck and .298" +.002" at the front of the neck. I have found my Douglas factory 260 chamber to be a go with a .298" at the front and go with a .299" pin gauge at the rear. Run 308 brass though a 260 FL die. Seat the bullet all the way to the base of the neck. Measure the OD of the neck. They mostly seem to be .299", but a very few are .300". e) I have been turning necks on Lapua palma 308 brass for 260. I want the higher strength small Boxer primer pocket for higher pressure. The flash holes are small, but I have not been drilling them, but instead turned down a decapping pin to .060". __________________ The word 'forum" does not mean "not criticizing books." "Ad hominem fallacy" is not the same as point by point criticism of books. If you bought the book, and believe it all, it may FEEL like an ad hominem attack, but you might strive to accept other points of view may exist. Are we a nation of competing ideas, or a nation of forced conformity of thought?

August 30, 2012, 01:44 PM	#3
kidako Junior Member Join Date: September 25, 2011 Posts: 8	Yes up here 50 rounds rem brass 39.99 plus taxes. I have 400 rounds of once fired 243 brass,( I did buy one bag) Just read a post who said just lube the 243 brass and 260 rem FL die then . re size then cut to size

August 30, 2012, 07:44 PM	#4
GeauxTide Senior Member Join Date: April 20, 2009 Location: Helena, AL Posts: 4,424	I thought the same thing when I bought my first 260. 243 brass is longer that 260. 2.0449 vs. 2.035. My 243 brass was 2.050. Bought 260 brass from then.

August 30, 2012, 07:46 PM	#5
GeauxTide Senior Member Join Date: April 20, 2009 Location: Helena, AL Posts: 4,424	I like RL19 with 120gr Nosler and Speer. And, of course, the wonderful 125 Partition.

September 2, 2012, 01:06 PM	#7
kidako Junior Member Join Date: September 25, 2011 Posts: 8	Thanks ,I do have lots o 308 brass. I will wait until I pick up my 260 (maybe another bag of 260 brass).

September 4, 2012, 07:48 AM	#8
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	Brass is (for most calibers) the cheapest part of precision loading. You say you're new to handloading...suggest you just buy the .260 brass and concentrate on learning to load, rather than "DIY" brass. JMO....

September 4, 2012, 09:11 AM	#9
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	Get the Nosler 260 brass and there's no handloader type prep work required, other than just adding primer, powder, and bullet. I've bought a lot of the Nosler brass and so far have found only one case with an imperfection.

September 4, 2012, 01:06 PM	#10
wncchester Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2002 Posts: 2,832	I doubt you'll find any difference in loading for a .260 even if it's to be fired in a Tikka. If you must reform cases it's easier and provides better necks to work down; just use .308 (or 7-08) cases and run them into your .260 sizer. I could give you my load but if you used it you would only be loading for my rifle, you really need to find what will work best for your's.