February 15, 2010, 04:38 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: February 15, 2010
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new to reloading!!!
hello everyone!!
i am a new gun owner and want to start to shoot more then a few times a month.. i have a taurus 9mm and i want to start reloading my own ammo, what i am looking for is someone that can tell me what would be a good brass, bullet, primer cap, and powder to use?? i am not sure if it all has to be just one kind or can you pick and choose and try diffrent combo's with this or not?? any help would be great, thanks!!! |
February 15, 2010, 04:51 PM | #2 |
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dnovember99
WELCOME TO TFL! Read this at the top of the reloading page: Sticky: For the New Reloader: Equipment Basics -- READ THIS FIRST Then come back with more questions. Good Shooting!
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February 15, 2010, 05:48 PM | #3 |
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Assuming this is for plinking and informal target, not competition:
- Use any brass. Most of us do NOT sort headstamps as for rifle. I have all my pitol brass mixed up. They will usually crack at the case neck before most any other failure. The accuracy is not as critical as in rifle so it doesn't matter so much about various headstamps. I have practically every headstamp in my brass and can't see much difference between them. - 9mm can shoot a wide range of powders from fast to fairly slow, like Bullesye to AA7. I like Unique becaue it seem very "un-particular" in use for either light loads or full power loads and the full rang of bullets. Generally I think the medium powders are most useful in 9mm like Unique, Universal, AA5 and Power Pistol. If you want top velocities especially with the 147 gr bullets then slower powders can be better like AA7, HS-7, Blue Dot. you will use approximately 5-7 gr of powder so you get 1,000 or more loads per pound (7,000 grains per lb). - The most popular bullet weights are 115 gr, 124 gr, and 147 gr. You probably want to shoot the same weight in practice as you do for carry or defense. Bullets cost just a bit more depending on the amount of metal in them so the 147 gr usually cost slightly more than the 115gr. The 147 gr are subsonic starting at 950 fps. The 115 gr can be pushed to 1200fps. If you shoot in volume then you probably want hard cast lead bullets which are about half the cost of jacketed. Places like Dardas sell 9mm lead for about $50/1000. - Any primer works in 9mm. I like CCI and Winchester, but I would just go with whatever you can find available. Use regular Small Pistol, not magnums. Be sure to get a reloading manual with detailed loading procedure descriptions such as Speer #14 or Lyman #49, or both.
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February 15, 2010, 05:50 PM | #4 |
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Yes read this sticky first and a couple of reloading books,
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=230171 |
February 15, 2010, 11:50 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 30, 2009
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I've been reloading for my 9mm since 1976. Brass: what ever I can find in the garbage cans or on the range floor, WW or RP is what I have the most of. Bullets: I use 115gr JHP, either Sierra or Hornady. Primers: Lately what ever you can find, I've been using CCI but recently purchased Remington's and haven't loaded them yet. Powder: I prefer WW231 (HP-38 same thing) it seems to meter from my powder measure more consistant than Unique. I do use Unique in my .357 and 44 mag but not in my 9mm or 45acp
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February 16, 2010, 05:01 AM | #6 |
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For plinking and target shooting I use lead bullets. They are the cheapest way to shoot. Missourri Bullet Co. has a good selection. There are a lot of other makers out there also. A round nose 124-125 grain bullet is a good choice. Buy local if you can and save on shipping charges. For powder I like Winchester 231. Any standard small pistol primer will do just fine.
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February 16, 2010, 06:30 AM | #7 |
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can you show where i get data in psi ( not cup)
can you tell how can i get reload tables for Revolvers . I have visited IMR web site and found chamber pressure data was given in Cup units .
Initially i was lured to see formula to convert cup in to PSi but on further study of litarature on some web sites i understood one such formula (1.51586 * CUP) - 17902.0 = PSI is applicable for high range pressures & riffles and not to hand guns . I searched net for many days to get chamber pressure data in psi ; because psi is scientificlly understandable ; from which i can caliculate Hoops stress via lames equations Lames equations ;then interpolate on yeild strength QT or autempered steel ; so i can understand safty margin. This give me great understanding in setting limits my self . The revolvers of my intrest are 0.32 s&w long ( very old pre war ) and s& w model 681 bore 357. Any sites with downloadable data in psi with different powders / catridges avilable ? I you have any other other reliable / working formula to convert cup to psi for handguns ( revolvers ) in low range chamber pressres ( less than 25 k cup ) please convey . |
February 16, 2010, 02:55 PM | #8 |
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The Speer #13 or #14 manual talks about CUP versus PSI. They originally tested in CUP but later found that PSI was preferable due to being able to use the less invasive/destructive stress transducers.
You can try to reverse engineer the reloading manuals' experimental data, or just spend $25 on a reloading manual like the Speer #14 which has all data in PSI now. The manual load tables already account for the strength of the intended firearms and the strength of the brass cases for each cartridge. If you try to calculate the max load for your firearm based on metal strength and load PSI you are more than likely to overlook some factor you are not familiar with. Do you know the max PSI for the brass case for a .32 S&W Short? can your firearm withstand the max PSI of the metal, or are there structural features which reduce the total strength of the revolver cylinder and frame? Not being an expert in firearms design I can't imagine how you could account for all the factors related to cartridge and firearm strength. Experts have already done this and backed it up with experimental data and put it all in handy handloading manuals.
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Last edited by NWPilgrim; February 16, 2010 at 03:01 PM. |
February 17, 2010, 10:52 AM | #9 |
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I do say yes to what you say but small children ask for small chocholates
Thank y for reply. I do accept understanding design with eng precision needs full time commitment & expertise. Surely i do not dream so.
what i ask is much simplified version to satisfy my curiosity. I do accept that many other factors like micro defects metal fatigue strain hardening and many many factors unknown to me do exist. Average person like me will be happy to see E= mc 2 as essence of Relativity but there exists much of math like tensor calculus ect ect . I do not need entire professional hand book on subject ( it is for experts ) . If you can provide what is maximum chamber pressure allowed (in PSI )under all limiting conditions you have mentioned to those particular hand guns i have mentioned . I even do not need exact conversion ; but it is enough if you can tell if i take CUP as equivalent to PSI ( as old timer done before invention of PIZo electric gauge) does it give overestimation or under estimation as PSI ?( in hand gun range of chamber pressures low range 10 k to 20 kilo cup ). In other words is 10000 cup is strong pressure or 10000 psi is strong pressure ? ( i do not need exact relation ). Last edited by syamsunder; February 17, 2010 at 10:54 AM. Reason: to heighlet lettering |
February 17, 2010, 11:30 AM | #10 |
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for me... since mostly shooting targets...
cast lead bullets,,,mixed headstamp brass,,,cci primers,,,,hodgens titegroup powder.... cheap but effective |
February 17, 2010, 11:31 PM | #11 |
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Safety First
Sized case, new or used. I sort my 9x19 cases by headstamp, because I prefer greater accuracy.
Any Small Pistol non-magnum primer. I use CCI500 and WSP, mostly. Alliant Power Pistol / AA5 / Vihtavuori Oy 3N37 / HS6 / Ramshot Silhouette. Bullets? Buy 100 packs for testing through YOUR gun (because some guns show a marked preference). I highly recommend a minimum bullet weight of 124g. My 'ideal' load might look like this: Speer brass sized case. CCI500. Rainier 124g TCJ-RN. OAL 1.140". 5.6g Ramshot Silhouette. Finish crimp using the LEE Carbide Factory Crimp Die.
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