Taurus 850 Problem

Waitone · November 13, 2002, 08:03 PM

The Gun--Taurus 850-2" Hammerless

The Problem--The cylinder does not rotate freely. Trigger pull seems high. I would estimate at 12+ lbs. My comparison is a S&W 686 which has a freely rotating cylinder.

The Question--Is this standard with Taurus? or am I making a bad comparison. If it is a problem, is it something I can correct or does it need to go to a smith.

I am a little concerned because the Taurus is my SD piece.

Thanks

J.R. Bob Dobbs · November 13, 2002, 09:17 PM

Not normal. Is the front of the cyl dragging on the barrel? Does it have the internal key-lock (I have seen that drag on the internal hammer, but wouldn't affect the cylinder directly).

I have a 650 (same gun in 357) and the trigger is great; it's better than my J-frames.

Waitone · November 14, 2002, 08:03 AM

The cylinder when open drags in that it does not spin freely. When the cylinder is closed there is a gap between the forcing cone and cylinder face. No evidence of scrapping on cylinder face. Trigger pull is high but smooth.

Hope this helps.

Old Fuff · November 14, 2002, 08:43 AM

I think they're may be crud between the cylinder and the shaft it rotates on. Remove the cylinder/crane assembly and be sure the crane is clean and lubricated before you do anything else. If you don't know how too do this take the gun to a qualified gunsmith, or better yet, return it to Taurus. Necessary repairs or adjustments will probably be free.

Waitone · November 18, 2002, 05:33 PM

Can anyone advise me as to how to remove the crane from the cylinder on a Taurus?

S&W is a no-brainer.

Somehow the Taurus is held on the cylinder.

db4 · November 20, 2002, 09:27 PM

Taurus uses an annular ring on the back of the cylinder axle, slotted longitudinally so that it can compress inward and then snap into a slot in the i.d. of the cylinder. I lathe-turned a tool to fit the i.d. with an internal bevel to compress the "fingers" when pressed into the back of the assembly. I suspect that a flat faced punch that fits closely would work as well. Support the cylinder on blocks or the open jaws of a vise and press or tap the axle out. It might work to simply pry close to center on the crane at the front but I didn't have guts enough to try this.

HTH Dan

November 13, 2002, 08:03 PM	#1
Waitone Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2000 Posts: 2,904	Taurus 850 Problem The Gun--Taurus 850-2" Hammerless The Problem--The cylinder does not rotate freely. Trigger pull seems high. I would estimate at 12+ lbs. My comparison is a S&W 686 which has a freely rotating cylinder. The Question--Is this standard with Taurus? or am I making a bad comparison. If it is a problem, is it something I can correct or does it need to go to a smith. I am a little concerned because the Taurus is my SD piece. Thanks __________________ "Given a choice between good intentions and human nature, I'll go with human nature every time."--Me, 2002.

November 14, 2002, 08:03 AM	#3
Waitone Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2000 Posts: 2,904	The cylinder when open drags in that it does not spin freely. When the cylinder is closed there is a gap between the forcing cone and cylinder face. No evidence of scrapping on cylinder face. Trigger pull is high but smooth. Hope this helps. __________________ "Given a choice between good intentions and human nature, I'll go with human nature every time."--Me, 2002.

November 18, 2002, 05:33 PM	#5
Waitone Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2000 Posts: 2,904	Can anyone advise me as to how to remove the crane from the cylinder on a Taurus? S&W is a no-brainer. Somehow the Taurus is held on the cylinder. __________________ "Given a choice between good intentions and human nature, I'll go with human nature every time."--Me, 2002.

November 13, 2002, 09:17 PM	#2
J.R. Bob Dobbs Senior Member Join Date: April 11, 2002 Location: Atlanta Posts: 221	Not normal. Is the front of the cyl dragging on the barrel? Does it have the internal key-lock (I have seen that drag on the internal hammer, but wouldn't affect the cylinder directly). I have a 650 (same gun in 357) and the trigger is great; it's better than my J-frames.

November 14, 2002, 08:43 AM	#4
Old Fuff Senior Member Join Date: October 17, 2002 Location: Arizona Posts: 237	I think they're may be crud between the cylinder and the shaft it rotates on. Remove the cylinder/crane assembly and be sure the crane is clean and lubricated before you do anything else. If you don't know how too do this take the gun to a qualified gunsmith, or better yet, return it to Taurus. Necessary repairs or adjustments will probably be free.

November 20, 2002, 09:27 PM	#6
db4 Member Join Date: December 8, 2001 Location: Oregun Posts: 53	Taurus uses an annular ring on the back of the cylinder axle, slotted longitudinally so that it can compress inward and then snap into a slot in the i.d. of the cylinder. I lathe-turned a tool to fit the i.d. with an internal bevel to compress the "fingers" when pressed into the back of the assembly. I suspect that a flat faced punch that fits closely would work as well. Support the cylinder on blocks or the open jaws of a vise and press or tap the axle out. It might work to simply pry close to center on the crane at the front but I didn't have guts enough to try this. HTH Dan