Finally got to shoot the remmy

WyomingWhitetail · March 2, 2011, 07:13 PM

Well a couple weeks ago i ordered a Remington Army from Cabela's I tore it all apart and smoothed what i say needed it and polished it here and there. Still working on fitting the grips but any how finally got to shoot it today. Only got to shoot it for two cylinders because the wind was blowing and i had the dogs with me and such. I just set up a cardboard box at probably 10 yards give or take, and the first 6 shots 4 of them were touching. It was just a blank box so i didn't really have a good point of aim, and the wind was blowing so i think with a little work this sucker will shoot darn good. I was shooting 25 grains of FFF black powder, the balls that came with the starter kit (.451s i believe), and no. 11 CCI caps. Had to squeeze the caps slightly or else the would all fall off after the first shot. The first cylinder i used grease only and the second cylinder i used wads and grease but my fiance shot that cylinder so not sure if it made a difference in accuracy.

sewerman · March 2, 2011, 07:51 PM

great job! i'm glad you enjoyed your shoot.

#10 caps work better & gander mountain sells then for $4.49 @ 100.
also you may find that a .454 ball is more accurate, some use a .457!

with the tighter balls you probably can despense with the grease....when you seat the balls you'll see a small ring of lead that shows the ball is fitting tight in the cylinder, though i have used a mixture of parafin and bees wax to seal the balls it doesn't run or is as messy as grease. just push a small wad of it on top of the ball if you feel a need for it.

wash that iron in HOT slightly soapy water rise with HOT and blow dry then oil with non petro based oils where the fouling may build up. the petro based oils react to black power residue and can get real nasty to clean off.

a little anti-seize on the nipples will keep you from having to remove then after each shoot. loosen 1/4 turn then tighten to snug and clean with a pipe cleaner.

now go have some more fun!

s.m.

Bill Akins · March 2, 2011, 09:03 PM

Sounds like you had a great time and great beginning with your new Remy Wyoming Whitetail.

+1 to what Sewerman said. Just one thing to add. I don't use greased felt wads under the projectiles nor grease over the projectiles anymore. Just my preference.

Instead, I pour cornmeal over the top of my powder charge and then seat the ball on top of the cornmeal. The corn meal forms a great barrier over the black powder that no flame from an adjoining cylinder front is going to get past to chainfire. It keeps my revolvers from being a sticky mess and I don't have to make my own nor spend money on greased felt wads. I have not found any negative aspects to doing it this way. I get about four cylinders shot before the cylinder starts to bind and I have to take the cylinder off and wipe the fouling off the arbor and run a patch through the cylinder's arbor hole, dab a little lube on the arbor and put it back together. All of which I used to have to do anyway when I used to use grease over the projectiles.

Of course this only works if you have enough room in the chamber left for the cornmeal and shoot light 20 grain charges like I do. If you shoot heavier charges, you may not have enough room for the cornmeal or if only a little room, not sufficient enough cornmeal over the powder to effect a sufficient barrier to cylinder front chainfire. Then you would indeed need a greased felt wad under the ball or grease over the ball. Yes you could rely on a .457 ball to swage so tightly into the cylinder that it SHOULD preclude a chainfire on the front of the cylinder, but then that is never really "sure" and I'd still use a greased felt wad or grease if I couldn't have a sufficient barrier of cornmeal over the powder.

Just make sure that in each chamber that the cornmeal stays level over the powder charge just before you ram the ball on top of the cornmeal. If the cornmeal were to get angled in the chamber uncovering any part of the black powder before you rammed the ball, that black powder could be exposed to a cylinder front flame causing a chainfire. If you have plenty of cornmeal over the powder, this usually isn't a problem, but if you are using a bigger charge of BP other than the light 20 grains I use, you may not have as much cornmeal over the BP and it could angle to the side and expose BP if not carefully kept level.

And if you are camping out hunting or fishing with your BP revolver on your hip, you could fish and use the cornmeal for fish batter or making corn dodgers.

I joked, but seriously....you could. I carry a plastic mayonnaise jar of cornmeal with me for my BP revolver loading. You can use grits for loading too instead of corn meal.

Darn, making myself hungry now for cornmeal battered catfish and some corn dodgers and grits!

.

WyomingWhitetail · March 2, 2011, 09:54 PM

yea i have some .454 balls to try but i was just using what came in the kit and i think they are .451. They were still shaving a ring of lead tho so maybe not. The grease that came with the cabelas kit was so thick i could hardly squeeze it out the tube so i think im going to pick up some bore butter or equivalent(that is what we always used in my dads 60 Army). I might try the corn meal just to take up space and see if it shoots better and play with the load some and see if i can find the sweet spot. And yep its already cleaned and re-oiled and ready for next time.

Bill Akins · March 2, 2011, 11:18 PM

WyomingWhitetail, the .451 will always shave a thin ring of lead in the Remy. It's just that the .454 will shave a more thick ring of lead and fit more tightly in the rifling. Same thing happens in my Pietta Remy. Small thickness of lead ring on .451, larger thickness of lead ring on .454. I prefer the tighter fitting .454's for tighter fitting and filling of my rifling's lands and grooves for better accuracy.

.

WyomingWhitetail · March 2, 2011, 11:42 PM

Yea I know we always shot the larger ones in my dads because the 451 practically rattled down the barrel.still need to get out and do some real shooting with it to work up loads.

March 2, 2011, 07:51 PM	#2
sewerman Senior Member Join Date: December 30, 2005 Location: hurricane alley, florida Posts: 304	great job! i'm glad you enjoyed your shoot. #10 caps work better & gander mountain sells then for $4.49 @ 100. also you may find that a .454 ball is more accurate, some use a .457! with the tighter balls you probably can despense with the grease....when you seat the balls you'll see a small ring of lead that shows the ball is fitting tight in the cylinder, though i have used a mixture of parafin and bees wax to seal the balls it doesn't run or is as messy as grease. just push a small wad of it on top of the ball if you feel a need for it. wash that iron in HOT slightly soapy water rise with HOT and blow dry then oil with non petro based oils where the fouling may build up. the petro based oils react to black power residue and can get real nasty to clean off. a little anti-seize on the nipples will keep you from having to remove then after each shoot. loosen 1/4 turn then tighten to snug and clean with a pipe cleaner. now go have some more fun! s.m. __________________ "When the government fears the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government there is tyranny!" Thomas Jefferson "They that can give up an essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety!" Benjamin franklin The Armed Citizen PREVENTS tyranny!

March 2, 2011, 09:03 PM	#3
Bill Akins Senior Member Join Date: August 28, 2007 Location: Hudson, Florida Posts: 1,135	Sounds like you had a great time and great beginning with your new Remy Wyoming Whitetail. +1 to what Sewerman said. Just one thing to add. I don't use greased felt wads under the projectiles nor grease over the projectiles anymore. Just my preference. Instead, I pour cornmeal over the top of my powder charge and then seat the ball on top of the cornmeal. The corn meal forms a great barrier over the black powder that no flame from an adjoining cylinder front is going to get past to chainfire. It keeps my revolvers from being a sticky mess and I don't have to make my own nor spend money on greased felt wads. I have not found any negative aspects to doing it this way. I get about four cylinders shot before the cylinder starts to bind and I have to take the cylinder off and wipe the fouling off the arbor and run a patch through the cylinder's arbor hole, dab a little lube on the arbor and put it back together. All of which I used to have to do anyway when I used to use grease over the projectiles. Of course this only works if you have enough room in the chamber left for the cornmeal and shoot light 20 grain charges like I do. If you shoot heavier charges, you may not have enough room for the cornmeal or if only a little room, not sufficient enough cornmeal over the powder to effect a sufficient barrier to cylinder front chainfire. Then you would indeed need a greased felt wad under the ball or grease over the ball. Yes you could rely on a .457 ball to swage so tightly into the cylinder that it SHOULD preclude a chainfire on the front of the cylinder, but then that is never really "sure" and I'd still use a greased felt wad or grease if I couldn't have a sufficient barrier of cornmeal over the powder. Just make sure that in each chamber that the cornmeal stays level over the powder charge just before you ram the ball on top of the cornmeal. If the cornmeal were to get angled in the chamber uncovering any part of the black powder before you rammed the ball, that black powder could be exposed to a cylinder front flame causing a chainfire. If you have plenty of cornmeal over the powder, this usually isn't a problem, but if you are using a bigger charge of BP other than the light 20 grains I use, you may not have as much cornmeal over the BP and it could angle to the side and expose BP if not carefully kept level. And if you are camping out hunting or fishing with your BP revolver on your hip, you could fish and use the cornmeal for fish batter or making corn dodgers. I joked, but seriously....you could. I carry a plastic mayonnaise jar of cornmeal with me for my BP revolver loading. You can use grits for loading too instead of corn meal. Darn, making myself hungry now for cornmeal battered catfish and some corn dodgers and grits! . __________________ "This is my Remy and this is my Colt. Remy loads easy and topstrap strong, Colt balances better and never feels wrong. A repro black powder revolver gun, they smoke and shoot lead and give me much fun. I can't figure out which one I like better, they're both fine revolvers that fit in my leather". "To be sure of hitting the target, shoot first and call whatever you hit the target". Last edited by Bill Akins; March 2, 2011 at 09:44 PM.

March 2, 2011, 11:18 PM	#5
Bill Akins Senior Member Join Date: August 28, 2007 Location: Hudson, Florida Posts: 1,135	WyomingWhitetail, the .451 will always shave a thin ring of lead in the Remy. It's just that the .454 will shave a more thick ring of lead and fit more tightly in the rifling. Same thing happens in my Pietta Remy. Small thickness of lead ring on .451, larger thickness of lead ring on .454. I prefer the tighter fitting .454's for tighter fitting and filling of my rifling's lands and grooves for better accuracy. . __________________ "This is my Remy and this is my Colt. Remy loads easy and topstrap strong, Colt balances better and never feels wrong. A repro black powder revolver gun, they smoke and shoot lead and give me much fun. I can't figure out which one I like better, they're both fine revolvers that fit in my leather". "To be sure of hitting the target, shoot first and call whatever you hit the target".

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March 2, 2011, 07:13 PM	#1
WyomingWhitetail Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2011 Posts: 221	Finally got to shoot the remmy Well a couple weeks ago i ordered a Remington Army from Cabela's I tore it all apart and smoothed what i say needed it and polished it here and there. Still working on fitting the grips but any how finally got to shoot it today. Only got to shoot it for two cylinders because the wind was blowing and i had the dogs with me and such. I just set up a cardboard box at probably 10 yards give or take, and the first 6 shots 4 of them were touching. It was just a blank box so i didn't really have a good point of aim, and the wind was blowing so i think with a little work this sucker will shoot darn good. I was shooting 25 grains of FFF black powder, the balls that came with the starter kit (.451s i believe), and no. 11 CCI caps. Had to squeeze the caps slightly or else the would all fall off after the first shot. The first cylinder i used grease only and the second cylinder i used wads and grease but my fiance shot that cylinder so not sure if it made a difference in accuracy.

March 2, 2011, 09:54 PM	#4
WyomingWhitetail Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2011 Posts: 221	yea i have some .454 balls to try but i was just using what came in the kit and i think they are .451. They were still shaving a ring of lead tho so maybe not. The grease that came with the cabelas kit was so thick i could hardly squeeze it out the tube so i think im going to pick up some bore butter or equivalent(that is what we always used in my dads 60 Army). I might try the corn meal just to take up space and see if it shoots better and play with the load some and see if i can find the sweet spot. And yep its already cleaned and re-oiled and ready for next time.

March 2, 2011, 11:42 PM	#6
WyomingWhitetail Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2011 Posts: 221	Yea I know we always shot the larger ones in my dads because the 451 practically rattled down the barrel.still need to get out and do some real shooting with it to work up loads.