Reloading New Brass

[Sea Buck]

Should I F/L size new brass? I have always use fired cases,but my cases are getting tired. No pressure signs but I feel it's time and those bright shiny cases look good.

[HiBC]

I use the following steps to process new brass for centerfire rifle hunting loads.
I lightly lube and size them.Bulk brass often has bent necks.
To establish a uniform length,I trim them.Then I give them a light chamfer,inside and out.Final step,I put a very light chamfer/deburr on the flash hole,inside the case.No more than just "some"an .002 corner break is plenty.
The flash hole is punched,and it will often have a "hanging chad" or some burrs around it thet make the primer flame erratic.

Another tip,in reloads,brush out the necks with a bore brush.

[LHB1]

With pistol brass, I always fully size when loading, whether new or used brass. With rifle brass, I just neck size new brass and also used brass if it has only been fired in my bolt action rifle. Any rifle brass fired in another gun gets full length sizing automatically.

[otto2002]

I have never had a problem with new brass other than a few bent necks. Just neck size the bent ones and go to the range, it will save u a lot of time

[stija]

I only neck size all of my brass. There is no need to fully resize it, especially if you shoot it with the same weapon. It just puts unnecessary strain on the brass and shortens its life.

[wncchester]

FL sizing new brass isn't absolutely neccessary but it does insure that each case has been "adjusted" to the same neck size.

It's cheap to do, doesn't take much time, we already have the equipment, so why not do it?

[Hawg]

About the only new brass I use is 44-40. I have had some from a major manufacturer that weren't necked to start with so yes I full length size new brass.

[45Marlin carbine]

new bottle-neck brass I neck size and de-bur the flash hole.
new pistol I run through the sizeing die and check the flash hole.

[crowbeaner]

I really abuse my new brass. I FL size it, trim if needed (I run them all through the trimmer just to be sure), uniform the flash holes, cut the primer pockets to the same depth with a Lyman uniforming tool, bevel and chamfer the case mouths, and then load them. If I actually spend money on NEW cases, I prefer to subject them to the same processes I use on once fired stuff to get them ready for a long life of shooting. You only have to do most steps only once, and your brass is good until it splits or looks like an incipient case head seperation is imminent. Most brass will have the primer pocket loosen up before bad things happen anyway. I wish that someone would invent a primer pocket correction tool similar to the one available for shotshells. I could get a few more loading out of my investment this way.

[Mike1]

I do the same as Crowbeaner on my rifle brass.

If nothing else, either neck size or FL size to get the dents out of the case mouth. Then chamfer and debur - also do this each time you trim the case.

Mike