June 25, 2016, 07:12 PM | #1 |
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Limp Wristing?
Does it actually exist as a reason for malfunctions in an auto pistol?
if so, I would think the most prominent malfunction would be a "stove pipe" failure to eject? Some say holding a pistol with a limp wrist should not cause a failure... I don't know. Any opinions would be enlightening....Thanks, JJ |
June 25, 2016, 07:18 PM | #2 |
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It can definitely happen. I've seen it numerous times and have been able to induce it deliberately as well. Glocks, for some reason, seem more susceptible than others (coming form someone that owns and carries Glocks). Some say it's frame material, but I also have polymer pistols that I can't for the life of me get to malfunction from limpwristing. And yes in my experience it usually affects the extraction and ejection of cases.
As for the "should it happen?" question, ideally you would prefer that whatever weapon you were using were as little susceptible to such a phenomenon as possible. Some models are more susceptible than others as I mentioned above, but certainly the nature of a reciprocating slide does rely on the user to keep the frame stable to a degree.
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June 25, 2016, 07:26 PM | #3 |
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I had a Ruger P95 that my wife and daughter could both shoot quite well as long as I stood there reminding them how to hold it. When I quite reminding them after a few shots they would revert to limp wristing the gun and having stovepipes. Their answer was "Whatever." I had to settle for teaching them to shoot double action revolvers, which they are quite capable with.
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June 25, 2016, 11:02 PM | #4 |
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In my opinion it depends a lot on the pistol. My USPc40, which is dead-nuts reliable, will almost never fail no matter how badly you limp wrist it. I learned to shoot auto pistols with this gun and have terribly limp-wristed it before. Never had a limp-wristing failure.
One of my acquaintances has a SW PPK that has to be held in a vice grip or it will FTE almost every time. EDIT And yes, limp-wristing usually causes FTEs more than other types of failures IMO. |
June 25, 2016, 11:22 PM | #5 |
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Yes, it's a fairly common problem...usually causing a failure to extract or eject....
I see it - at least once a month - among new shooters at my local range.../ instructors that teach intro to handgun classes tell me they see it often on a variety of semi-auto's . |
June 26, 2016, 12:25 AM | #6 |
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Remember that there is a lot of physics going on with semi-automatic pistols. Watch what happens when you cycle the slide. Imagine the force vectors and think about all the different jobs being done by that fixed amount of energy across steps. A loose hold allows for more motion of the entire pistol. That can bleed off energy, alter vectors, and screw up timing. Stove-piping is a common malfunction under these circumstances.
I only usually see it with new shooters who have not yet developed a good grip or don't know what to expect. I've seen it with lots of handguns but some seem infamous. Among my group of shooting buddies, the FNX-45 seems the best check for limp-wristing among newbies. |
June 26, 2016, 05:40 AM | #7 |
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Limp wristing was the invented reason for Glock Gen4 malfunctioning! This came out of Smyrna GA. Till the factory made main springs that worked.
I saw an Instructor hold a Glock 17 with finger and thumb, it still worked. |
June 26, 2016, 08:24 AM | #8 |
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It is a fundamental principle of the recoil operated action that there will be something to recoil against.
Its something designers and shooters have known about since the introduction of recoil operated firearms. You can find it mentioned, rarely in the old literature, though not usually with the current name. The current term is, I believe, something promoted, if not coined by, certain folks as a reason their guns were still "perfection" and malfunctions were ALWAYS the shooter's fault. It does appear to happen more often with polymer framed pistols and less experienced shooters.
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June 26, 2016, 01:08 PM | #9 |
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Of course,the slide recoils against the bullet.
And then the slide comes to a full stop and the shooter absorbs the rest of the energy.By the time this takes place the case has been ejected,failure to eject is probably due to something other than weak wrists. |
June 26, 2016, 01:35 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
I have told this before, but: The first time my youngest daughter, then of college age, shot my Glock 26, she had multiple extraction failures. She was then an engineering student and immediately understood the idea expressed by 44 Amp when I explained it. She then had no more failures. There is simply no other explanation for the change except that she understood the problem and fixed it, by giving the pistol a more stable platform and stopping the practice of absorbing too much recoil by the way she held the pistol. Are some pistols easier to "limp wrist" than others? I would expect so, because if nothing else a pistol with more mass in the frame inherently provides a greater resistance to the recoil impulse. Some folks say they won't have a pistol that can be limp wristed; that is the same as saying that their pistol has to work right if it is being used incorrectly. To me, it isn't a negative to the pistol as long as it works correctly in my hands. I still have both the G26 and the daughter. |
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June 26, 2016, 01:43 PM | #11 |
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I like to use a very relaxed grip and relaxed/flexed joints for all my handgun shooting, and fortunately my 10mm Kimber Eclipse actually seems to prefer it ... the few other people who have shot my Eclipse (who all use the prevailing very firm grip) have had more jams than I have.
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June 26, 2016, 01:48 PM | #12 |
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There are, apparently, some people who cannot master the concept that for a tool to work properly, it must be used in a specific manner.
If you hold a claw hammer by the hammerhead, and try to drive nails with the handle, it is not very efficient. Some tools work well enough in a wide variety of ways. Some, do not. If you have to shoot a pistol a certain way, then that's the way you shoot it. Expecting it to perform properly when you don't, simply means you don't understand how and why it works. No one thinks there is anything wrong with a standard transmission, because you have to use the clutch to shift gears (or you really should, ). its accepted that is the way the mechanism operates best. Pistols aren't any different in that regard, there is a certain way to operate them that works best. And it can differ from gun to gun.
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June 26, 2016, 01:59 PM | #13 |
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Like Mike and 44 Amp say, it can depend on the gun.
When I first added a 1911 to the sixguns I already had, I shot it the same way as the hoglegs. As Mike describes and it worked just fine. Not the way I do it nowadays, but it didn't object at all.
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June 26, 2016, 04:08 PM | #14 |
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limp wrist
As an instructor of 50 years experience, revolver and auto loader, I have found that people who limp wrist are lacking in upper body, arm and hand strength.
I am not saying that you have to be a body builder or weight lifter. If you increase your upper body,arm and hand strength, you can still use a relaxed grip because your relaxed grip will be strong enough to control the weapon. As a side effect you will also see your recoil control improve and will be able to get follow up aimed shots off quicker. |
June 26, 2016, 04:53 PM | #15 | |
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Granted, almost everyone these days wants to get a lot of bullets down range very quickly, and for that, you DO need a firm grip (and preferably a high hold), and a high-capacity gun. But that's not what I want. (I'm probably the only 1911 shooter who has NEVER emptied a mag as fast as I can pull the trigger ... just never has seemed like something I wanted to do.) Last edited by Mike_Fontenot; June 26, 2016 at 05:04 PM. |
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June 26, 2016, 05:34 PM | #16 |
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With all due respect to 44 AMP and Tailgator's opinions I have to respectfully disagree with the notion that the preference for tools which resist operator error is entirely predicated on misunderstanding of how tools function. I think the idea is that such tools can save your skin if you make a mistake during a stressful situation.
For example I used to do a lot of forestry work with chainsaws. I had two saws available for my use, the company saw, an incredibly powerful and reliable Stihl, and my own saw, an adequate but much less powerful Poulan. Of course I could cut down a tree with the Poulan if I needed to but because it had significantly less torque than the Stihl the chance of the saw getting caught in the tree were much lower. Of course, with the proper technique, the Poulan works just as well, but felling trees can be a hair-raising experience under the best of circumstances. You really don't want your saw getting stuck when you're trying to make a cut because then you've created a much more dangerous situation. So I always chose the Stihl for felling big trees to decrease the danger that could arise from an accident. It's just an extra layer of protection like wearing a helmet and chainsaw chaps. Neither a helmet nor chainsaw chaps is necessary to cut down a tree but they will save you if you screw up. I look at guns the same way. Of course with the proper technique any properly made gun should function properly. However, there is always a chance of a failure and if you get that stovepipe in a self-defense situation, it could be very, very, bad. It's why many people still carry revolvers despite the other obvious disadvantages. It mitigates the danger of failure. |
June 26, 2016, 05:50 PM | #17 |
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I thought force vectors were what the tiny fighter jets used to fire flavor into starburst. And that the mainspring housing sprung hammer, trigger, grip safety. I agree you need a firm enough hold for reliable operation. But don't tense muscles to much or you will flinch or jerk weapon off target before shots.
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June 26, 2016, 08:17 PM | #18 |
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Its real My daughter had a boy friend that jammed every semi auto. I let him try. I would fire a mag Then let him try. Never made it thru a single mag 380 9mm or 45 . I think he could jam a cap gun. My daughter had no trouble shooting the same pistols . I told her to ditch him and find a real man .
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June 26, 2016, 08:19 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
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June 27, 2016, 06:32 AM | #20 | ||
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Quote:
A recoil operated pistol is a relatively simple mechanism. In most pistols, the slide must reach the end of it's travel to fully eject the fired casing and provide enough energy through the compression of the recoil spring to strip the next round from the magazine and load it into the chamber. If the frame is allowed to move rearward with the slide, the velocity of the slide relative to the frame will be low causing weak ejection, and the slide will never reach the stop (full recoil spring compression) if the frame is allowed to move rearward far enough. There are two things holding the frame in place so the slide can reach full travel relative to the frame. The "inertia" of the frame is one, your grip is the other. Quote:
If the frame of your pistol does not have enough inertia to fully resist the forces trying to compress the recoil spring, then your grip must provide the balance of the resistance. A loose enough or low enough grip will allow the frame to move rather than compress the recoil spring, causing low slide velocity relative to the frame, which means ejection and feed problems. Last edited by 45_auto; June 27, 2016 at 06:42 AM. |
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June 27, 2016, 07:43 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Try to understand that there are two equal forces at work and the frame simply holds the device that produces those forces. |
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June 27, 2016, 08:47 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
Pushing the gun forward with both hands can, too. http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=577024
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June 27, 2016, 09:05 AM | #23 | |
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I think my relaxed grip makes my 10mm 1911 run better because with full-spec 10mm ammo, the slide tends to move back TOO fast ... it throws the brass completely across width of the range, where they hit the wall and fall to the floor. A relaxed grip slows that down at least a little. |
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June 27, 2016, 09:42 AM | #24 |
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I'm about to adopt a Lightweight Commander. So mass of energy, to bullet weight and energy absorbed. To size of barrel to hold on gun. Equals lowest energy absorbed though hand? I do need the basics you guys are sick with this science. I believe JMB design the 1911 for a typical man with moderate strength. Don't let gun fly out of hand and hold on target. Gives the appropriate base for gun to function. It does need a hold like any gun ever designed.
Last edited by 1969Colt1911; June 27, 2016 at 09:52 AM. |
June 27, 2016, 10:37 AM | #25 |
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I use the sidewalk VS water-bed to teach this lesson;
If you held a coil spring vertically and compressed it against the sidewalk and then took the same spring and tried to compress it against a water bed mattress you would find that the same amount of pressure would not compress the spring against the bag of water as it did when it was against cement. Such is the dynamic with autos. If you don't hold the gun in a way that allows the spring to fully compress you can get short cycles. I had a very small and thin woman (84 pounds) come to my shop just 2 weeks ago with a sub-compact 9mm and said the gun just didn't work right. She and I went out to my firing range and she shot it in front of me. A 7 shot mag malfunctioned 5 shots. I took the gun, reloaded and shot it 7 for 7. Then I did it 3 more times. So I shot 21 rounds just fine and she could not get the gun to work 3 shot in a row ever. I explained the problem to her just as I did above using the spring against a water-bed as a lesson. When she would squeeze the gun firmly and use the left hand to squeeze her right hand, and lean forward a bit at the hips the gun started to work for her perfectly. I took out my CZ75 and let her shoot it. She was amazed at how easy it was. I explained that the CZ was very heavy compared to her little sub compact, and the standing momentum of the larger gun was helping act as "the sidewalk" to compress the spring. I have seen many 1911s jam from limp writing when I was teaching combative tactics in the USMC back in the 70s and 80s Most times when the man or woman started to grip the gun tighter and keep their wrists straight the jamming stopped. I have seen Browning A5 Shotguns do it too, when their owners try to shoot them from the hip. The arms often will not hold the gun forcefully enough to allow full compression of the spring. So it is not uncommon. The "fix" for it is often as simple as holding on firmly and solidly. |
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