Black Powder and Bismuth shot

RwBeV · November 17, 2006, 10:42 AM

Anyone out there using black power and Bimuth shot? Im finely starting to get some good patterns out of my Greener 10ga. The 12's and 16's have been slow to follow.

Bob

arcticap · November 17, 2006, 11:44 PM

Tell us more about your results, what's your formula for success?

RwBeV · November 20, 2006, 11:26 AM

I have a WW Greener 10ga. that is in great shape, I think it was built around 1875. I have tried just about every combination you can think of but so far the following load has given me the best results in this gun. I trim a Fed. case down to 2 7/8" I built a steel plug to go inside the case to use a triming guide and to keep the case mouth square. I size them in MEC press and prime with a Win. 209 primer. I load 4 1/2 Drams, that amounts to just a little over 120 grains of Fg on top of that I use a .090 card wad seated with about 90lbs. of pressure then a plastic wad cut out of a coffee can lid, this wad prvents the lube wad from soaking into the card wad and into the powder. As mentioned next is a 1/8 inch felt lube wad soaked in one of the black powder lubes. In order to get the Bismuth shot to pattern I cut the cushion off of a Remington SP10 wad and use just the shot cup this will hold about 1 3/8 oz of bismuth shot (my old shot measure shows 1 5/8 oz. which would have been lead) I also use shot buffer to help cushion the shot. Last I insert a Circle Fly over the shot wad and use a antique roll crimper to finish the round.

I have found that Bismuth needs a fairly tight choke to pattern well, also I can not get any of my guns to pattern with out a shot cup. Magtech is making brass hulls for reloading they work pretty well, I just wish that they would come out with a 10ga hull. The loading info I found suggests using Water Glass to seal the brass shells, I found out the hard way that this stuff hardens and falls out. I now use Fletch Tight which is an archery glue it works well and sticks to the brass holding the over the shot wad with no problem.

I am still trying to get my 16ga and 12ga guns to patten it just takes a lot of testing, if anybody has any tips on loading for these guns I would love to hear about it.

Shoot stright and keep your powder dry.
Bob

November 17, 2006, 10:42 AM	#1
RwBeV Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Location: Wyoming Posts: 112	Black Powder and Bismuth shot Anyone out there using black power and Bimuth shot? Im finely starting to get some good patterns out of my Greener 10ga. The 12's and 16's have been slow to follow. Bob

November 17, 2006, 11:44 PM	#2
arcticap Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2005 Location: Central Connecticut Posts: 3,166	Tell us more about your results, what's your formula for success?

November 20, 2006, 11:26 AM	#3
RwBeV Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Location: Wyoming Posts: 112	I have a WW Greener 10ga. that is in great shape, I think it was built around 1875. I have tried just about every combination you can think of but so far the following load has given me the best results in this gun. I trim a Fed. case down to 2 7/8" I built a steel plug to go inside the case to use a triming guide and to keep the case mouth square. I size them in MEC press and prime with a Win. 209 primer. I load 4 1/2 Drams, that amounts to just a little over 120 grains of Fg on top of that I use a .090 card wad seated with about 90lbs. of pressure then a plastic wad cut out of a coffee can lid, this wad prvents the lube wad from soaking into the card wad and into the powder. As mentioned next is a 1/8 inch felt lube wad soaked in one of the black powder lubes. In order to get the Bismuth shot to pattern I cut the cushion off of a Remington SP10 wad and use just the shot cup this will hold about 1 3/8 oz of bismuth shot (my old shot measure shows 1 5/8 oz. which would have been lead) I also use shot buffer to help cushion the shot. Last I insert a Circle Fly over the shot wad and use a antique roll crimper to finish the round. I have found that Bismuth needs a fairly tight choke to pattern well, also I can not get any of my guns to pattern with out a shot cup. Magtech is making brass hulls for reloading they work pretty well, I just wish that they would come out with a 10ga hull. The loading info I found suggests using Water Glass to seal the brass shells, I found out the hard way that this stuff hardens and falls out. I now use Fletch Tight which is an archery glue it works well and sticks to the brass holding the over the shot wad with no problem. I am still trying to get my 16ga and 12ga guns to patten it just takes a lot of testing, if anybody has any tips on loading for these guns I would love to hear about it. Shoot stright and keep your powder dry. Bob