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Old February 1, 2011, 09:03 AM   #1
SprawlCowboy
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H&R 732

Hello all, how's everyone doing? Got a few questions regarding this old piece. First off, I've heard and read through the search function that you can use .32 S&W Long in the models that aren't labeled as such. Can anyone give me some more info on that specific piece of info? Also, I bought the 2.5" barrel model, is it possible to interchange a 4" barrel, maybe a dumb question but thanks all the same.

p.s. Grips other than Tombstone (wood preferably)?
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Old February 1, 2011, 11:42 AM   #2
32 Magnum
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All H&R 732 revolvers were made to handle either the .32 S&W or .32 S&WL cartridges - as you stated - check these pics - the 'L' wasn't added until the 2nd Variation was introduced (with transfer bar safety) - but both variations were chambered for the 'L' round.
You can, of course swap out your 2.5" barrel for a 4" barrel - I just checked the Numrich/Gun Parts Corp. web site for this model and they are out of stock on the 4"er. If you look and search long enough you probably will be able to find what you seek.

IMG_1416.jpg

IMG_1411_2.jpg
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Old February 1, 2011, 09:14 PM   #3
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Thanks. The info is appreciated. Just out of curiosity, would the addition of the 4" barrel increase the muzzle velocity to where hollow point ammunition would function as it was designed, or is it still too underpowered?
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Old February 3, 2011, 09:19 AM   #4
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Of course the additional inches should add a bit more muzzle velocity. MagTech of Brazil offers a SJHP cartridge for SD use:
85431 .32 S&W® Long SJHP 98gr 778 fps MV 132 ftlb ME This appears to be designed for SD as the ballistics exceeds any of their other .32 S&WL loadings. As you can see it equals or betters the .32 ACP sd rounds in weight and energy.

The above quote is taken from the Sportsmans Guide on-line catalogue.
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Old February 3, 2011, 02:11 PM   #5
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Thanks again. Any ideas on how to go about changing out the barrel?
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Old February 3, 2011, 07:13 PM   #6
gyvel
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Quote:
Thanks again. Any ideas on how to go about changing out the barrel?
The barrel is threaded tightly into the frame, and requires care when changing. Firstly, you will need a suitable barrel vise to clamp onto the barrel, and you will also need some means of securely clamping the frame in such a manner as to prevent it from bending or twisting.
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Old February 3, 2011, 11:48 PM   #7
Mike Armstrong
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I've messed with the .32 Long ctg. a great deal and found that the best stopping factory load is the .32 Long wadcutter 98gr. loaded by Fiocchi of Italy for the Euro autoloaders used in Olympic centerfire rapid fire competition. It is apparently loaded a lot hotter than US wadcutter ammo because the blowback action on the expensive Euro pistols require it. I have used it in a 5" S&W Regulation Police ("pre"Model 31) on medium-sized varmints like 'coons, possums, and woodchucks at close range and it kills well. Makes quite a "whop" on hitting. The bullets don't expand but do transfer energy to the target well. I suspect that they would do as well on human tissue but fortunately haven't had any experience in that. They are very accurate; I quit using .32 Mags in my S&W Model 16-2 because the Long wadcutters killed just as dead at the ranges I could reliably hit animals! With less cost and racket.

A handloader could just use US wadcutter bullets and up the charge slightly and slowly from the loads in reloading manuals. I'm not sure if the H&R is up to that though; somebody that knows that revolver's limits should advise you on that. But the .32 H&R Magnum was developed for H&R solid frame revolvers, and that factory load is MUCH hotter than the Fiocchi Long wadcutters.
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Old February 4, 2011, 09:18 AM   #8
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Been doing a lot of searching and thus have picked up a couple boxes of Fiocchi wadcutters. So, the possibility of easily changing out the 2.5" for the 4" when going to the range, then back for CC is an impossibility correct? I've tried to remove the barrel with just my hands and nothing. Should I take it to a gun smith?
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Old February 4, 2011, 12:21 PM   #9
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+1 on the .32 wadcutter ammo for SD. I have a 2.5" 732 also. I picked it up for less than $100 a few years ago. If I were to carry it for serious purposes, it would be loaded with 100gr fiocchi LWCs. The shot POA with zero recoil. Six of those would ruin any BG's day.
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Old February 4, 2011, 04:11 PM   #10
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I reload for my H&R 732 2.5". 100gr double-ended lead wadcutters. The 732 has a solid frame, built tough. A lot of the older guns chambered in 32s&wl are break barrels, and normal 32 s&wl factory pressures shouldn't be exceeded. At my own risk, I have exceeded those pressures a bit, but I wouldn't do that in a break barrel.

FYI, 32acp will also function in the H&R 732 and 733 in a pinch. 32acp is semi-rimmed and will headspace on the rim in a gun chambered for 32 s&w, but I would NEVER do so in a break barrel or a solid frame gun marked 32 s&w (without the "long") because 32acp factory pressures are higher than 32 s&wl. If your 732 is in fact ok for 32 s&wl, you should be ok also. Do so at your own risk though. Search this forum for 32 acp in a 32 s&wl. There have been threads here on that topic.
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Old February 4, 2011, 04:47 PM   #11
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Alright, so what was once was a mere antique has become a project. I purchased the 4" barrel marked S&WL, it is in pretty rough shape. It actually looks as old as it is. The gun itself looks about 80% blue still. So, I'm going to be taking it to a gun dealer to use a vice to have the new barrel put it, I suppose for good. Before that though I'll need to blue it up a bit. I'll probably purchase the Birchwood Casey kit unless I hear of a better kit from you guys.
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Old February 5, 2011, 03:57 PM   #12
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So...I'm trying to find someone to swap out the barrels and the local dealerships are charging crazy amounts like $50, $75, $85 etc...Will someone with more experience in this please tell me if this is justified? I'd be willing to pay someone $15-20 to put it in a couple vices, turn it, and put the new one in. Ridiculous...anyone in Florida want to oblige? Here's a picture just thought it should be in this thread.
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