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Old May 11, 2010, 07:41 AM   #1
LordTio3
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Newbie Questions...

I've been curious about reloading for a while now and have finally decided to get into it. All pistols I own are 9mm or .22, so 9mm is what I'll start reloading. However, my wife just decided that she wants a new Smith and Wesson 637 in .38 spl. It's a more expensive round, and "apparently?" very easy to reload; so I'm thinking of reloading .38 special as well.

Also, my next firearm purchase will be a SA Loaded 1911 in .45ACP, which would be much more expensive to shoot if I didn't start reloading now.

So you can probably see why this felt like a good time to start. I just have several questions that I'm having a hard time finding answers to before I invest and begin.

1. Where is the caliber change-over from "small" handgun primers to "large" handgun primers? .45?
2. If I am reloading both .38spl and 9mm, can I use the same primers and powder for both, varying only charge level and bullets?

Also, I've decided on a Lee Hand Press to start out on with a set of 9mm and .38spl pistol dies. It comes with the Ram Press and sizing die. I figure when I upgrade later, it will still be a good tool to have around for fine tuning and work on the go. And I don't shoot but 4-5 thousand rounds a year, but that many .38 spls, 9mms, and .45s in a town that you can't find hardly any ammo in will mean a lot to me in the long run.

3. I'm planning to wash my brass by hand. Is a tumbler with media really that much better at removing scoring and debris?
4. I've also done quite a bit of research on volumetric vs scaling powder measures and I'm planning on using volumetric measures because of the physics of the advancing rate of the combustion front through identical volumes of powder regardless of the mass of the charge. It seems to result in a more consistent burn since my rounds won't really be punished before I fire them. Thoughts there?
5. Also, what are the overal impressions of using lead bullets for the majority of loads? Would I be fine in bulk, or is there great benefit to safety/consistency/accuracy gained from using FMJ?

I'm anxious to get started, but wouldn't want to make a rash decision regarding putting ill-manufactured combustables into one of my Babies. Thank you in advance for any advice you have for a reloading-noob.

~LT
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Old May 11, 2010, 08:25 AM   #2
Sevens
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1) All the small stuff is small primer. (.25, .32, etc etc) 9mm and .38/.357 are all small primer. .40 S&W is small primer, .357 Sig is small primer. 10mm, .41 Mag, .44 Mag, .45 and all the biggies are large primer. The SUPER big ones (.460, .500 Mag) are actually large RIFLE primer.

2) For .38 and 9mm you can use the same primer. For SOME loads, you can use the same powder but it ends up being a compromise in many instances. The difference between the two (among many!) is that .38 Special is a low pressure round and 9mm runs a very high pressure so they are often at their best when the powder choice is tailored to the load. Just to get started? Sure, you can use the same powder.

No number statement about hand press: I say skip it. If it's all about the cost then get Lee's most simple bench mounted "c" frame press, it's probably the same price as the hand press but a WORLD easier to use. Sure, the hand press is portable, you can resize brass in front of the TV, but it's a messy job and that thing is like working a thigh master with your hands. Even the world's weakest/cheapest bench mounted press is a better idea.

3) Vibratory cleaner (yeah, we call 'em tumblers) is definitely a better move. I went many years without one, and I won't ever be that cheap or uninformed ever again. Besides clean brass that keeps your loading dies in fine condition and keeps excess crud out of your firearms, there's a real pride that goes in to your ammo when it looks as good as it really is. So dig in the couch cushions and get a tumbler. Cabela's actually runs a pretty good price on theirs... I'm using the Frankford from Midway.

4) Not sure I understand the question. Volumetric powder measures are what most of us use and their repeatability is dependent mostly on powder choice (some are much better than others!) and technique. A good powder measure is a KEY tool in the process, IMO.

5) Lead vs Jacketed. If you are brand new, I would start with jacketed and keep cast lead as a goal to work toward. Many more pitfalls with cast lead, especially for a new reloader. Also, be warned that most indoor ranges won't even allow you to shoot cast lead bullets so if your shooting is indoors, consider that. And if it sounds like I'm against cast lead -- nothing could be further from the truth. I shoot a heap of it in 9, .38 and .45. I shoot some in 10mm. I use a lot of cast lead, but if brand new and just getting rolling? I'd start with jacketed.
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Attention Brass rats and other reloaders: I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.
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Old May 11, 2010, 08:49 AM   #3
LordTio3
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Sevens: Thank you. As always, your advice is readily welcomed.

I had decided on the Lee Hand Press mostly because as of now, I live in an apartment and don't have a whole lot of room to work with. I do have a table I may be able to clamp to without damage (wood blocks?) but definitely can't permanately bolt a press to anything I own quite yet. I'll definitely give the c-frame a look.

I've personally never seen the effects of a vibratory cleaner on brass, but I did have an uncle who cleaned all of his brass by hand. He had full strainers in bins out in the garage. In the bins was nearly boiling water, ivory liquid soap, and a little lemon juice. He'd let it sit a while and agitate it every few minutes. Then he'd grab and handful and give them a once-over with a Scotch pad. They were usually quite pretty on the other end. This does seem like a bit more effort though. I'll definitely think about a tumbler as well.

As far as the comprimise in the .38spl being loaded with quicker-burning powder, how much of an effect would this tend to have on a 1 7/8" barrel like on the 637 J-frame where the bullets don't usually have time to get up to full-potential velocity anyway? I assume it would be better to just get the rounds their own load out, but I've always been a curious sort of person.

Thank you again,
~LT
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Old May 11, 2010, 09:24 AM   #4
Sevens
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I would say that cleaning brass by hand would be better than not cleaning at all. But for the $60-some bucks it'll take to get a proper vibratory cleaner and some media and a sifter, it seems like fool's work to me. (and if we are talking BUDGET, you are talking to a pro... I squeeze a nickel until Jefferson starts wheezing, so I know about getting the most for my money and going on the cheap)

For while when I was in college and needed to set up some kind of reloading in an apartment that wasn't conducive to having a whole bench, I mounted an o-frame press on a plank of wood that was good and long, and layed it across my waterbed frame and sat on the wood. I think with a little creativity, some clamps and some wood, you should be able to come up with a setup that fits in a rubbermaid tote when not being used. But if you must go the hand press, that's fine... I've had my say!

With regards to powder selection, I don't have a lab or even a chrono... I'm more of a "try it and see what ya see" kind of handloader. Currently, my "go to" loads in both 9mm and .38 Special do make use of the same powder: Alliant Power Pistol. My charge weight in 9mm is fairly heavy compared to other powders... well, .38, too. These aren't max or over-max, just a heavier charge weight. So they may not be the most economical. But the Power Pistol meters fabulously and I buy it in 4-pound jugs and I love the results I get with it, so that is what works for me.

For your short barrel .38 and loading 9mm too, you might be best served with Bullseye or W231. But then again... it's all about what you are trying to accomplish.

But it was quite a while ago that I abandoned the idea of trying to make too many compromises by doing everything with only one or two powders. For twenty or so dollars, I get a powder that does everything I want it to do and I always have flexibility at my bench because my cache has a many selections for powder -- I like it that way. But hoarding 15+ different powders is certainly more for the longtime enthusiast rather than someone just getting started.
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Attention Brass rats and other reloaders: I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.
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Old May 11, 2010, 10:20 AM   #5
vladan
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For cleaning cases you are best with tumbler, but I read some just put cases into sock and wash it in the washer :-)
Priming - wouldn't even bother with the press priming attachment , get the Lee auto primer - hand operated, cost like 15 bucks and does great job priming small and large size primers.
Press - like Sevens said, hand press is wasted money, because of two reasons - 1) after 50 loaded rounds you'll hate yourself for buying it and 2) once you start reloading you'll start shooting more, reloading more, shooting more ... got the drift? Forget about saving money, BTW, you'll just shoot more.
Get some single stage or simple turret press for 50-100 dollars, it will last you for long time
Powder - for both 9mm and .38 ( and .45 in future) you can use Bullseye or AA#5 powder - one jug will do all three calibers , Bullseye is old true and tried favorite, AA#5 is measuring like dream - it is ball powder of consistency of fine sand.
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Old May 11, 2010, 11:03 AM   #6
dcody40
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A work bench idea for an apartment type

You should look at some of the various portable workbench tables that everyone from Black & Decker to Sears sells, they have many names, Shopmate is one, all of them fold up for storage, you can easily bolt your C press on one for temp use. I got a lee press for starting out for around 30 $ on ebay, new, and simple to use, I have assembled thousands of rounds with this little press, and it's still working just fine, from depriming to crimping, I use an extra lock nut to lock in each die so I don't have to readjust the buggers everytime I change calibers or stages. Then I got smarter and purchased RCBS lockrings with allen head screws to lock them down.
These work tables run from 30-100 $ and can be used for allot of things.
Good luck and enjoy, look up my other posts in this forum and you will see more details and how I did it on the economy side at first, now I'm beyond all help lol !..I went and purchased a big blue monster for my 45ACP habit, well that's all she wrote !...

Keep em safe and on target.

Duane USN/Ret
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