case lube in neck

[bow shot]

After I fulllength size, do I need to remove the case lube in the neck? I see that some of the powder seems to "hang up" in the ID of the neck when I fill... I'm using a.17 funnel for .204.

does this mean I have to clean/ tumble every time I full length size...

[Unclenick]

Well, the best, IMHO, is not to use case lube in the neck at all, but rather to use dry powdered neck lube in the neck. Graphite or motor mica are most common for neck lube kits. Better yet, if you have a Hornady, RCBS or a Redding die, you can get carbide expander balls that need no lube at all. I use them almost exclusively, being basically lazy.

But given you are using case lube, mostly what is in the neck isn't of great enough quantity to cause a powder ignition issue any more than lube on cast bullets does. If the sticking powder bothers you, get a funnel that goes down into the neck. The arts and crafts section of Wally World has one that will work for ball powder, but is a bit small for some stick powders. You can also make one by taking a range foundling bottleneck rifle case whose neck is small enough to just slip into your case's necks. Cut it off just below the shoulder with a tubing cutter, then dispense powder in through that.

[mkl]

No need.

The bullet will push it all back into the case when seated.

In my 45 years of reloading, I have never experienced "lube contamination" of powder because of any powder stuck in the neck and then subsequently pushed back into the case.

[bow shot]

...good answers right there, thanks very much folks.

Now that I think of it, I had not noticed this untill I switched funnels from my old funnel setup which was a "normal" funnel with a .17 case shoved up the spout, to my current funnel, which is one meant for .17. The old setup reached INSIDE the neck of the .204 case, and the new funnel perches on the rim of the neck, hanging over the OD.

Uncle nick, this may explain the wierd filling thing I mentioned in my last post in the thread "IMR 4064 for .204 anyone?"

[Unclenick]

Could indeed. Most powder funnels and drop tubes these days have a female conical spout to cover a range of case mouth sizes. Getting powder stuck on the lube in a .204 could also conceivable interfere with powder flow if it is poured in gently. Not much extra room there. A tall drop tube might shoot it in fast enough to get clear of the problem though? You could also try finding a .17 rimfire case to use to make the inside funnel mouth with that I illustrated?

[James R. Burke]

I just use the powder to lube the inside.

[Doodlebugger45]

I have a really cute little funnel that I bought years ago in an auto parts store for something? I noticed it in my shop the other day and used it to dump powder into some .38 shells. I liked it better than a real powder funnel that fits over the top. I don't reload for my .243 (yet) but I tried it and sure enough it will fit inside the .243 case just fine and I would bet it would work for even a .22. Not sure about a .204 though. But you might try the craft shops or auto shops for a teeny little funnel.

[bow shot]

great info folks, thanks kindly!

[dardascastbullets]

Indeed you do have to remove the case lubricant from the inside of the case neck. Case neck tension must be sufficient to hold the bullet in position especially if they are to be fired in magazine or tubular fed firearms.

I will suggest that you acquire some Dow Corning Moly Z powder. I used a bottle for several decades - a little sure goes a long ways! A small amount of the powder is placed into a shallow container and you dip the case necks into the powder. Then tap the cases to remove any residual powder back into the container. You will realize a very smooth full length sizing operation using the Moly Z powder and you will not have powder sticking to the inside of your case necks.

[Gbro]

I had a very serious problem years ago when I would lube the case necks with RCBS case lube. Some of my loads that were a couple years old were found to be stuck so tight that I would pull the bullet (.270 spire points) in 2 with a visegrip pliers. I had to pop them loose in the seating die before I could pull the bullets.
This was found when I had a very noticeably loud report and the bolt was stuck. I had to literally pound the bolt open with the heal of my hand. The case was in 2 pieces and the primer was blown. Yes I had head space issues in those days also.
I use lee case lube now and I do not clean it out of the case necks.

[Doodlebugger45]

Wow! I sure like the sound of that Dow Corning Moly z stuff! That sounds like a dream come true to me. I started reloading handgun cartridges with Lee Carbide dies so I didn't have to worry about lube. But now I can't find carbide dies with the rifle calibers or with the RCBS dies that I find locally so I'm relegated to the lube stuff. I found a site that sells this miracle stuff. It's kinda pricey but... if it works, it's the cat's meow it seems.

Thanks dardascaststuff.

[bow shot]

what powder? 'you mean mica?

Doodle, where'd you find the molyZ ?

[bow shot]

,..I found the moly Z. 'bout $60.

[snuffy]

To lube the inside of necks, I use a RCBS brush that's rolled on a lube pad that has a very light coating on it. I use midway spray case lube on the outside and a spray on the pad as well. I don't worry about whatever residual lube is left on the inside of the neck. It's a so darn small amount that it won't have any effect on the powder OR the bullet pull.

If it bothers you, then remove it before charging the case. A Q-tip with some solvent would work,(I use denatured alcohol), you could also tumble for 20 minutes in new corn cob, just be sure there's no media left in the primer flash hole.

As in everything pertaining to reloading, consistency is most important. Change one thing, like removing the case lube from inside one time and not the next time can ruin a group.



Then there's this;

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=892537

[bow shot]

James R burke must have meant the spent gun powder when he posted "I just use the powder to lube the inside"