Glock Trigger Safety Lower?

Jaywalker · October 4, 2013, 09:41 AM

The Glock trigger safety bar on my G19 is too high - it numbs my finger. Are there any aftermarket trigger/bar combos that sit closer to flush for a reasonable price? (I'm not interested at the Fulcrum price.)

Tactical Jackalope · October 4, 2013, 10:42 AM

I don't understand what exactly you mean by

Quote:

trigger safety bar

and it being too high. Sounds like an internal part. The trigger bar is internal.

Do you mean the trigger guard? If so I can answer your question very well.

But then this threw me off too.

Quote:

Are there any aftermarket trigger/bar combos that sit closer to flush for a reasonable price

Pics would help out a lot.

Jaywalker · October 4, 2013, 12:25 PM

Yes, I used a poor choice of words and didn't notice it. I did not mean the trigger bar, I meant the trigger safety blade itself as it sticks through the trigger. I estimate that over half of the pressure I apply to the trigger is on that thin blade and it's uncomfortable.

I'd rather buy a less uncomfortable trigger than sand down the offending blade, but I'll do that if I have to.

Uncle Malice · October 4, 2013, 02:35 PM

Yep.

The Lightning Strike milled aluminum trigger. The safety thing is wider and sits flush with the trigger when depressed.

http://www.rockyourglock.com/custom/LS-BLKTRGBE4.htm

It's $100. I actually have one that I used to run in a tricked out Glock 17 I had. Not using it at the moment. I'd let it go for $75 if you want it. It was used in the gun for less than 500 rounds.

Bart Noir · October 4, 2013, 06:19 PM

You can do a lot of sanding, and self-rewarding ale drinking afterward, for $75

Malice, what can you tell us about the performance of that trigger? The sales words say that it reduces the length of trigger pull by 50%. That's a big claim. What did you notice?

Bart Noir
Who notices that this trigger is not offered for the large framed Glocks, dangitt.

Uncle Malice · October 4, 2013, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Who notices that this trigger is not offered for the large framed Glocks, dangitt.

Is is: http://www.rockyourglock.com/custom/LS-BLKTRGLGBE5.htm

Quote:

Malice, what can you tell us about the performance of that trigger? The sales words say that it reduces the length of trigger pull by 50%. That's a big claim. What did you notice?

It's been a while since I used it, but it definitely seemed to reduce travel quite a bit, especially noticable on the reset. Of course, that was paired with a Ghost Rocket, so reset was already quite minimal. It was about 1-2mm reset.

I really like the trigger, actually. I ended up selling the gun that it was in, so I pulled it out. Haven't put it into any of my other Glocks yet. Was thinking about getting a G34 at some point. If I do, i'd probably put it in there.

lee n. field · October 4, 2013, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Yes, I used a poor choice of words and didn't notice it. I did not mean the trigger bar, I meant the trigger safety blade itself as it sticks through the trigger. I estimate that over half of the pressure I apply to the trigger is on that thin blade and it's uncomfortable.

It's just a little spring holding the trigger safety forward. You shouldn't even notice it, while pulling the trigger.

Are you competent to disassemble the gun? Sounds like something might be put together wrong.

Rob62 · October 4, 2013, 08:49 PM

Jaywalker - I know exactly what you mean. Some folks *VERY LIGHTLY* sand down the flat straight trigger safety bar and radius it the same as the trigger. NOTE - If you go too far you will find that it will not disengage and then create a whole other set of problems.

But if you use very fine sandpaper rolled up in a round stick style and carefully look as you sand you can radius it to perfectly blend in with the trigger radius (after the trigger / trigger safety is fully pressed) and still make it function as intended. Sometimes it only takes a few gentle passes of the sandpaper to get the results you are looking for.

Worst case you have to purchase a new trigger with trigger bar assy.

Side note - I owuld without question trade out the "Target" trigger bar assembly that is on the factory G19 for one of the smooth face trigger bar assemblies that the G17/G22 uses. You may find that alone fixes the problem or reduces it.

The part # is 357 of the trigger bar assembly you want in there. This is the smooth face trigger with trigger bar that is used on the G17/22/etc and can be interchanged with the compact and sub compact Glocks.

Regards,

Rob

Jaywalker · October 4, 2013, 09:18 PM

Am I competent to detail strip a Glock? Well, I don't know - I've never tried it... Kidding aside, no, I've never worked on a Glock past field stripping it. I'm getting close to trying it and have been looking at smooth triggers and connectors.

UM, thanks, but $75 is more than I want to put into it right now. Maybe the smooth trigger is already lower and if not, I can keep the factory one original.

That's always assuming I can't find a nearly-flush model cheaply...

Rob62, I am accustomed to using a dowel and sandpaper to widen rifle stock barrel channels, so that's the approach I'll take on the trigger.

lee, if it's put together wrong, it came that way from the factory. When I learn more I'll be able to tell.

Rob62 · October 4, 2013, 09:33 PM

I thought about explaining better what I meant above. What you want to do is create a slight radius on the front of the trigger safety (which is now flat or straight) and that radius should match the radius or curve of the trigger- as much as possible. Keep in mind that the trigger safety still needs enough material on it to depress it when pulling the trigger and thereby deactivating the trigger safety.

Worst case you end up needing a new trigger assy which is about $15.

But before doing any of that seriously consider replacing the G19's trigger assy with one of the smooth face ones for the full size Glocks.

Regards,

Rob

Babychief · October 4, 2013, 09:45 PM

ZEV technology FULCRUM trigger group at glockworks,then chamfer with 2000 grit by hand. You ever try wearing shooting gloves or cheap "mechanix" brand gloves?

Jaywalker · October 4, 2013, 10:42 PM

Babychief, sure, I looked at the fulcrum, but it's much more expensive than I want to pay. I'd rather practice without gloves, as I won't be wearing them normally. Thanks for the suggestions, though.

Rob, thanks - I understood you. I've seen the need on the trigger for there to be some meat left on it at rest in order to depress to clear the frame.

October 4, 2013, 09:41 AM	#1
Jaywalker Senior Member Join Date: November 16, 2001 Location: Texas Posts: 330	Glock Trigger Safety Lower? The Glock trigger safety bar on my G19 is too high - it numbs my finger. Are there any aftermarket trigger/bar combos that sit closer to flush for a reasonable price? (I'm not interested at the Fulcrum price.)

October 4, 2013, 02:35 PM	#4
Uncle Malice Senior Member Join Date: May 11, 2009 Location: Phoenix Posts: 4,580	Yep. The Lightning Strike milled aluminum trigger. The safety thing is wider and sits flush with the trigger when depressed. http://www.rockyourglock.com/custom/LS-BLKTRGBE4.htm It's $100. I actually have one that I used to run in a tricked out Glock 17 I had. Not using it at the moment. I'd let it go for $75 if you want it. It was used in the gun for less than 500 rounds. __________________ Handguns: 2x Glock 19.4 \| Glock 26.4 \| HK USP 9 \| HK P2000 \| HK VP9 SK \| HK P30 \| CZ Shadow 2 \| CZ P-10 C \| CZ P-07 \| CZP-01 \| S&W 360PD Rifles: DDM4 \| SGL 21 \| SAM7K \| Draco \| PSA PDW SBR \| ASA Side-Charger SBR \| CZ Scorpion K SBR \| Aero M4E1 9" 300blk SBR \| Angstadt Jack9 SBR \| Savage Mark II FV-SR Shotguns: Mossberg 590A1 20" SP \| Mossberg Shockwave

October 4, 2013, 06:19 PM	#5
Bart Noir Senior Member Join Date: August 5, 2000 Location: Puget Sound, USA Posts: 2,215	You can do a lot of sanding, and self-rewarding ale drinking afterward, for $75 Malice, what can you tell us about the performance of that trigger? The sales words say that it reduces the length of trigger pull by 50%. That's a big claim. What did you notice? Bart Noir Who notices that this trigger is not offered for the large framed Glocks, dangitt. __________________ Be of good cheer and mindful of your gun muzzle!

October 4, 2013, 08:49 PM	#8
Rob62 Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 1999 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 560	Jaywalker - I know exactly what you mean. Some folks VERY LIGHTLY sand down the flat straight trigger safety bar and radius it the same as the trigger. NOTE - If you go too far you will find that it will not disengage and then create a whole other set of problems. But if you use very fine sandpaper rolled up in a round stick style and carefully look as you sand you can radius it to perfectly blend in with the trigger radius (after the trigger / trigger safety is fully pressed) and still make it function as intended. Sometimes it only takes a few gentle passes of the sandpaper to get the results you are looking for. Worst case you have to purchase a new trigger with trigger bar assy. Side note - I owuld without question trade out the "Target" trigger bar assembly that is on the factory G19 for one of the smooth face trigger bar assemblies that the G17/G22 uses. You may find that alone fixes the problem or reduces it. The part # is 357 of the trigger bar assembly you want in there. This is the smooth face trigger with trigger bar that is used on the G17/22/etc and can be interchanged with the compact and sub compact Glocks. Regards, Rob __________________ NRA & NAHC Life Member

October 4, 2013, 09:33 PM	#10
Rob62 Senior Member Join Date: June 28, 1999 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 560	I thought about explaining better what I meant above. What you want to do is create a slight radius on the front of the trigger safety (which is now flat or straight) and that radius should match the radius or curve of the trigger- as much as possible. Keep in mind that the trigger safety still needs enough material on it to depress it when pulling the trigger and thereby deactivating the trigger safety. Worst case you end up needing a new trigger assy which is about $15. But before doing any of that seriously consider replacing the G19's trigger assy with one of the smooth face ones for the full size Glocks. Regards, Rob __________________ NRA & NAHC Life Member

October 4, 2013, 12:25 PM	#3
Jaywalker Senior Member Join Date: November 16, 2001 Location: Texas Posts: 330	Yes, I used a poor choice of words and didn't notice it. I did not mean the trigger bar, I meant the trigger safety blade itself as it sticks through the trigger. I estimate that over half of the pressure I apply to the trigger is on that thin blade and it's uncomfortable. I'd rather buy a less uncomfortable trigger than sand down the offending blade, but I'll do that if I have to.

October 4, 2013, 09:18 PM	#9
Jaywalker Senior Member Join Date: November 16, 2001 Location: Texas Posts: 330	Am I competent to detail strip a Glock? Well, I don't know - I've never tried it... Kidding aside, no, I've never worked on a Glock past field stripping it. I'm getting close to trying it and have been looking at smooth triggers and connectors. UM, thanks, but $75 is more than I want to put into it right now. Maybe the smooth trigger is already lower and if not, I can keep the factory one original. That's always assuming I can't find a nearly-flush model cheaply... Rob62, I am accustomed to using a dowel and sandpaper to widen rifle stock barrel channels, so that's the approach I'll take on the trigger. lee, if it's put together wrong, it came that way from the factory. When I learn more I'll be able to tell.

October 4, 2013, 09:45 PM	#11
Babychief Junior member Join Date: July 31, 2013 Location: Daytona beach florida Posts: 281	Glockworx ZEV technology FULCRUM trigger group at glockworks,then chamfer with 2000 grit by hand. You ever try wearing shooting gloves or cheap "mechanix" brand gloves?

October 4, 2013, 10:42 PM	#12
Jaywalker Senior Member Join Date: November 16, 2001 Location: Texas Posts: 330	Babychief, sure, I looked at the fulcrum, but it's much more expensive than I want to pay. I'd rather practice without gloves, as I won't be wearing them normally. Thanks for the suggestions, though. Rob, thanks - I understood you. I've seen the need on the trigger for there to be some meat left on it at rest in order to depress to clear the frame.