Question about depriming without resizing

[btefft]

I'd like to be able to deprime my dirty brass BEFORE I resize it.

Why?- I don't want to run dirty cases into my regular depriming/resizing die to deprime them just so I can trim the cases later.

I'd like to be able trim the cases (as most of you know, to do so, primer must be gone) and then clean them in my tumbler. I didn't want to clean them, deprime them, trim them and then go back to the LnL press to reload them. Once they are all nice and clean and already trimmed, then I'd run them through the LnL press.

Does anyone make a die that only has a deprimer pin in it and works on all calibers? If I had a die like I envision, I could use my single stage just to deprime.

Am I just complicating the reloading process?

Hack

[Leeman]

Decapping dies are available for exactly the reasons you suggest.
Check www.leeprecision.com then visit one of the online dealers for the best price for all brands.

[rwilson452]

Lee makes one. Lee part number 90292

Question about depriming without resizing
I'd like to be able to deprime my dirty brass BEFORE I resize it.

Why?- I don't want to run dirty cases into my regular depriming/resizing die to deprime them just so I can trim the cases later.

I'd like to be able trim the cases (as most of you know, to do so, primer must be gone) and then clean them in my tumbler. I didn't want to clean them, deprime them, trim them and then go back to the LnL press to reload them. Once they are all nice and clean and already trimmed, then I'd run them through the LnL press.

Does anyone make a die that only has a deprimer pin in it and works on all calibers? If I had a die like I envision, I could use my single stage just to deprime.

Am I just complicating the reloading process?

Hack

[The Lovemaster]

+1 for the Lee decapping die, I use it all the time.

[45Marlin carbine]

IMO you're complicating things, size after cleaning then trim to length.

[hodaka]

The problem with depriming before cleaning is all of the pieces of media that end up in the flashhole. Can be a pain.

[Sevens]

The Lee Universal Decapper is very sturdy and inexpensive die, it'll last a lifetime.

Just two things to remember in your operation--
1) He's dead right... removing cleaning media from flash holes sucks, and if that weren't bad enough, tumbling doesn't do a very good job at all of cleaning the flash holes if you want them clean. If you want them clean, it's one at a time with the flash hole cleaner.

2) I'm not sure exactly what order you wish to do everything, but you should not be case trimming before resizing. Resizing can and often will change the length of the brass, so all trimming should be done AFTER sizing. And if you are talking about pistol/revolver rounds-- most of us never, ever trim them. A few do. But it's not a crucial part of the process. I only trim rifle brass.

[btefft]

45Marlin and hodaka, thanks for your input.

Hack

[btefft]

Thanks Sevens, I was thinking wrong.

I would have been trimming before I resized. What you said makes sense.
What I'll do is

1. Clean all the brass in my tumbler, primers in

2. Remove all the dies from the LnL (with the die bushings, this is no problem), except for the resizing/deprimer die.

3. Run all the clean cases, still primed, through the LnL, just to resize and decap them.

4. Then, trim to proper length

5. Put all dies back in LnL, remove the the resizing/deprimer die (already done)

6. Reload the trimmed, cleaned, deprimed cases with the LnL

Make sense to you?

PS - When do you make use of the universal decapping die. I way I got it figured, I'd never need one.

Hack

[hodaka]

Your mileage may vary, but I have learned that typically I trim brass after the first firing. After that they seem to go a long way until they need to be retrimmed. As a matter of fact, the necks usually split or I lose the brass before they need trimming again. Of course this varies with caliber and firearm, but generally this works for me.

[TexasSeaRay]

Hack,

When I'm doing rifle, I'm normally not loading up all that many--usually less than a couple-dozen of any/each given caliber.

So worrying about any media in the flashole doesn't bother me, because attention to the flashole and primer pocket is part of my rifle cartridge reloading process.

Basically, here's my process:

1. Tumble brass (still primed)

2. Inspect brass for any faults, cracks, etc.

3. Lube, decap/full-length resize.

4. Either wipe down lube by hand, or using the Zip Trim or by tumbling

5. Take spare decapper pin and remove any media/gunk from flashole.

6. Use Lyman flashole tool to debur, make all flasholes same size/diameter.

7. Use primer pocket cleaner

8. Use chamfer tool or uniforming tool--whichever necessary

9. Trim case to proper length

10. Chamfer inside of neck, then debur outside of neck.

11. Wipe down by hand, place in loading block.

The primer pocket and flashole work is basically a one-time deal. Once done, it normally doesn't have to be repeated.

I use the depriming/decapping die for once-fired brass and/or brass I pick up at the range that I do not know the history of. I also use ground walnut I get from Petsmart in my tumbler and I haven't had too many instances of media getting stuck in the flashole--not nearly so many instances as when I use grond corncob.

Nothing wrong with your thinking--you're looking out for your equipment, and being meticulous and thorough. Not a thing wrong with that; I'm the same way.

Jeff

[Sevens]

In 20+ years at the bench, I've never owned the Lee Universal Decap die. So no, it doesn't find it's way in to my routine! But a very good use for one would be for processing military brass with crimped primer pockets.

As for your process, sounds fine to me. Me? I don't trim any handgun brass. Rifle? I wouldn't bother to load rifle on a progressive press. With primer pocket cleaning, trimming and case lubing, I just don't see where the progressive pays off much for rifle rounds. If I had an AR and I chucked brass in large piles, I might think differently!

[ForneyRider]

Here is my .45ACP cycle.
This is w/o lube.

Tumble.
Lee Breech Lock: Decap with Lee Universal Decapper.
Clean primer pocket.
Hand prime.
Pro 1000: Lee sizer die. I push up the decap pin.
Pro 1000: Lee Expander/Powder.
Pro 1000: Lee Bullet seat.
Lee Breech Lock: Factory Crimp die.

I have the Lee rifle charging die as well.

I want to integrate lube too.

I don't trim pistol brass. I do trim rifle.

Note: can't neck-size with Lee rifle neck-sizer die unless you modify the decapping pin.

[Sevens]

Seeing as how a lot of people complain about priming and primer feeding on progressive presses, your method with the Lee 1000 seems to be a pretty decent way to do it!

[wncchester]

I decap with a universal die first, then tumble. That helps clean the primer pockets. My cob media is what's sold for "sand" blasting log homes to clean them, "Perma-Chink" brand. It is too fine to clog flash holes, I love it.

[azredhawk44]

My only use so far for my Lee Universal Decapper Die has been to deprime military 7.62x51 brass prior to removing the primer crimp.

My method:
1. Tumble brass (M14 autoshucker makes' 'em dirty)
2. Lube and resize in RCBS Rockchucker
3. Trim every other loading, note on load card whether trimmed or not
4. Champfer case mouth every other loading, note on load card
5. Hand prime with Lee auto-prime
6. Fill cases with powder from RCBS Uniflow
7. Seat bullet in RCBS Rockchucker
8. Crimp bullet with Lee FCD in RCBS Rockchucker (not 308, only 30-30)

[SLOMountaineer]

Why does a spent primer need to be gone before trimming?

[mrawesome22]

Why does a spent primer need to be gone before trimming?

It doesn't. I suppose you could size with decap pin out, tumble, deprime with a universal decapper, then trim. Boy what a pain in the butt.

[SL1]

It depends on the trimmer.

The Lee trimmer has a length control feature that is a pin in the cutter tool that sticks through the flash hole and stops against the Lee case holder. With a primer in-place, it would stop against the primer anvil and leave the case too long.

Most case trimmers have a different length control feature that works outside the case. Those can be further divided into two types: One type has the case head against a flat surface. In those, any protrusion of the primer surface above the case head, even a slight crater rim around the firing pin dent, will cause the cases to be made too short. While being a little short is not a problem, being a little short by different amounts can be a problem for accuracy if a roll crimp is used on the trimmed cases.

In the other type of trimmer, the case head is against a surface which has a hole in it that is bigger than the primer. In those, trimming with the spent primer in place is no different than trimming with it removed.

BUT, it is best to trim cases AFTER they are SIZED to get the most uniform length, because sizing changes case length and not necessarily uniformly from case to case, or even uniformly around the circumference of a single case mouth. There seems to be no reason to leave the primer in place while sizing. So, the primer is usually not present when cases are trimmed.

SL1

[Alleykat]

Thanks Sevens, I was thinking wrong.

Unless I'm just missing the obvious, then you're still thinking wrong. (or is that "wrongly"?)

Tumble cases; lube cases; size and deprime @ station 1; trim (or wise up and start using an X die); prime, drop powder, seat bullet.