May 4, 2010, 12:34 PM | #1 |
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38 & 357 Loading
Does 38 & 357 need to be crimp
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May 4, 2010, 12:52 PM | #2 |
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YES, roll crimp. Bullets can slip under recoil if you don't. Can lock up the cylinder and/or cause other damage.
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May 4, 2010, 12:53 PM | #3 |
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I only use a light crimp on revolver ammo.
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May 4, 2010, 03:25 PM | #4 |
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A light crimp on .38 cast loads, a heavy crimp on .357 jacketed ones.
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May 4, 2010, 05:32 PM | #5 |
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In a word... yes. I also use a lighter crimp on lead than on jackets.
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May 4, 2010, 05:34 PM | #6 |
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The Speer manuals say to crimp when:
1) The case is mostly empty, in order to promote good combustion. This applies to most 38 Spl and 357 Mag loads. For SD or hunting loads, where you are generally trying to maximize velocity, I guess you would use a firm crimp. For light target loads, it doesn't really matter if combustion is inefficient as long as the grouping is good, so I tend to use light crimps on target loads to save wear & tear on the cases, and that works out OK. Also , I shoot plated bullets for target shooting, and you aren't supposed to crimp those much - I use 1/4 turn on a Lee Factory Crimp Die. 2) When you use slow powder. By slow I believe they are referring to some of the slower magnum powders, like Lil Gun, but you would put a firm crimp on those anyway because it's a mostly empty case (see 1 above). So: Firm crimp on high-performance SD and hunting loads, and as little crimp as you can get away with (which sometimes is no crimp at all - just remove any case mouth expansion) on light target loads.
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May 4, 2010, 05:55 PM | #7 |
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No matter the circumstances I highly recommend crimping. I do agree with high performance (upper scale powder tables) a heavier crimp is warranted.
I set the crimp to the same no matter the load for .38 special or the .357 Mag. This way I am not alway adjusting the crimp for different brass. I also trim my brass when warranted so as not to cause crimping problems when the brass becomes too long. Been doing this since 1979 and never had an issue. |
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